Metolius UL Mastercam vs. Original Mastercam

Working on a trad rack right and looking at getting some mastercams for micros since I don’t wanna dish out the money on X4s and C3s. Which do you guys prefer? I know the lack of the thumb loop has been a point of contention for many. Also any other pros or cons? Personally I feel like the original mastercams might be better because of the thumbloop but I haven’t had my hands on either of the cams. Weight is somewhat negligible to me since all the mastercams are pretty damn light.

I like both but the ultra light are narrower so you can fit them in pods easier. 

I have newer ULMCs and love them. My double is BD and WC which have thumb loops and I don't get bothered one bit by the lack of loop on the ULMCs. With that said, I don't aid and I don't climb hard trad. I've been told that I would want the thumb loop if I did either of those. 

Does the orientation of the trigger cable unit bother anybody else when placing them in horizontals? That is my ONLY complaint of mastercams; Wish they had went with something else. 

I have both.I thought the lack of a thumb loop would be annoying but I actually prefer the ultralights. You can get them pretty cheap on alpenglow as well right now.

Another +1 for the ULs, I love mine

Choss Wrangler wrote: Does the orientation of the trigger cable unit bother anybody else when placing them in horizontals? That is my ONLY complaint of mastercams; Wish they had went with something else. 

There was some discussion/concern about that when the MCs first came out, but after 10 years of them, even Gunks users (99% horizontal placements) haven't had any problem.

Asking from pure ignorance and from someone who isn't a 5.10+ trad climber, how does one who loves the thumb loop utilize the thumb loop in ways that make it easier? There's obviously love for the thumb loop so I understand there's got to be something I haven't gotten to understand. I pretty much use my ULMCs, C4s, and Friends the same way. My first rack was ULMCs so maybe learning without the thumb loop has handicapped me to the understanding of it....?

Whatever you do make sure that IF you buy the U cabled Metolius cams  that they do NOT have the silicone spacer washers on the axle. All my “new” Metolius cams had the spacers disintegrate and are now unusable. Whereas my older ones, all the way back to the ones with totally smooth cam lobes (90’s? Earlier?) are still cranking. But this finally turned me to BD cams. 

I have a set of the UL Mastercams, BD C4s and Totems. I always reach for the MCs first. For the area in which I climb (PNW), the fit the best and are always rock solid with falls (I've taken a few).

The Totems come second in terms of secure placements. BDs are OK, but never feel quite as secure.

ULMC cams are great, you should try out more than just the small sizes!

I have the full set of ULMCs. I dig them, especially the 00-2. I’ve read complaints about the larger sizes being a bit wobbly at the stem (no doubt true), but it hasn’t been a deal breaker for me. That said, I don’t climb super hard.

Anybody ever get a response from Metolius regarding the change in design?

I just got a size 0 MC to see what they are all about since they are so cheap right now.  Pretty new trad climber myself so haven’t been married to the idea of a thumb hole yet.

Jay Dee wrote: how does one who loves the thumb loop utilize the thumb loop in ways that make it easier? 

In my experience, the thumb loop is pretty crucial for aiding. It helps me stand in my top rung more securely (I use one fifi and one ladder for stuff I do). I don't mind not having it for free climbing, so the UL is preferred as its nice having a lighter harness for steep cracks. Love both!

Derek Field wrote:

In my experience, the thumb loop is pretty crucial for aiding. It helps me stand in my top rung more securely (I use one fifi and one ladder for stuff I do). I don't mind not having it for free climbing, so the UL is preferred as its nice having a lighter harness for steep cracks. Love both!

I can definitely see aiding liking the loop a lot. 

I've owned both versions of mastercams, as well as the TCU's (both UL and non-UL). All other things being equal, I'd prefer the thumb loop. But, the weight savings of the UL's is significant enough, that I'd prefer the UL's. 

I love ULMCs from #00-#6. Above that and they get a little floppy. Great little cams. Cheap (can be had for $45 new with 25% off), snappy, great customer service, very confidence inspiring, made locally in the PNW.

IMHO, I actually prefer the lack of a thumb loop. Makes them lighter, placing easier, and takes up less room on my harness.

I learned with cams that didn't have a thumb loop...the rigid stem Friend.  I don't mind the thumb loop, but it isn't crucial to me. I don't aid climb any more, other than some French free now and then, so getting as high as possible doesn't matter to me.

One thing about the thumb loop I don't like is that if you fall on them, the cable gets kinked by the sling. 

Brassmonkey wrote:

I've whipped on lots of my thumb loop cams from several brands and haven't experienced this. 

The BD ones have the tripled up deal going, so they aren't likely to do it. But the WC friends with the Dyneema sling will do it when a 200 pound guy whips on one. It ends up elongated and kind of pinching the sling. 

Brassmonkey wrote:

Do you have a personal experience with this (picture)?  I've fallen on Totem basics, Mastercams, Aliens, Wild Country, BD; none of them kinked.  To the best of my knowledge, Wild Country used a different type of cable then BD that when tested with the doubled dyneema wouldn't kink.  Also, this does not mean all cams with thumb loops will react this way.   More specifically,  that the mastercams the OP is asking about would do this. 

I do have personal experience with a WC Helium 1st gen (black stem w/colored sling), didn't kink it, but sort of stretched the thumb loop out of shape.  Fell repeatedly trying to pull the roof on Tagger in Eldo.  After I finally got to the belay and brought up my buddy, I noticed the loop looked a little wonky. Still usable though.

Chris Fedorczak wrote: IMHO, I actually prefer the lack of a thumb loop. Makes them lighter, placing easier, and takes up less room on my harness.

This is real.