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Crash pads for the reluctant boulderer

Original Post
Scott D · · San Diego · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

I've resisted bouldering for 15 years but with the current climate I think I better change my tune.

I want to buy a crash pad. I don't want to spend a fortune, conversely I'll probably have the pad for next 15 years and I don't want to regret cheaping out.

Here's the pads I'm considering:
-Mad Rock Mad Pad
-Metolious Session II
-Black Diamond Circuit

Can anyone give me a comparison of these pads? The info online is shockingly sparse, (outdoorgearlab, 99boulders, climber dad on YouTube, and consumer reviews - that's it) 

If I pay $50-$100 more then we get into the range of Organic, Kinetic, Asana pads and the higher end pads from the big companies. Kinetic seems to make the best pads in the industry, but maybe I'm not understanding the appeal of Organic. Anyone care to sell me on spending a little more?

I could see the using the couch feature of the Mad Pad a ton. The extracurricular uses of a pad are important to me as my trend of avoiding bouldering will invariably resume.

Thoughts?

Scott D · · San Diego · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

For reference I won't be highballing anything (maybe the odd 30' first bolt). V3-4 is where I will spend the brunt of my time and current limit is V6. I live in SoCal and and mainly climb up and down the west coast, on granite whenever possible.

Jared Chrysostom · · Clemson, SC · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 5

The Session II seems to be durable - I bought a well-used one, to go with my Backcountry/Metolius pad which is basically identical, and the old doesn’t really feel like it has lost much of its resilience. 

Buck Rogers · · West Point, NY · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 240

The Session II seems to retail around $160 when I did a quick check.

I have an Organic Simple Pad that I bought and customized with colours, etc. for $175 and it is PERFECT.  I absolutely love it.

Why?  Hell if I know but it is truly just awesome.

So there you go:  Probably not at all helpful but if you have $175 to spend, I would go with the Organic Simple.

Short Fall Sean · · Bishop, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 7

It sounds like you're planning on doing more bouldering since it can be done solo? If so I'd recommend a big pad. As an awkward introvert, I spend plenty of time doing various forms of solo climbing, and it's often surprising how little a problem has to traverse or overhang before you're no longer above your little 3' x 4' pad. The extra area of something like the BD Mondo or the Triple Mad Pad is definitely welcome. Or possibly even better, get two smaller pads that strap together easily.

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 280

I’m pretty happy with my metolius pads. Not great for high boulders though

Jared Chrysostom · · Clemson, SC · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 5
Short Fall Sean wrote: It sounds like you're planning on doing more bouldering since it can be done solo? If so I'd recommend a big pad. As an awkward introvert, I spend plenty of time doing various forms of solo climbing, and it's often surprising how little a problem has to traverse or overhang before you're no longer above your little 3' x 4' pad. The extra area of something like the BD Mondo or the Triple Mad Pad is definitely welcome. Or possibly even better, get two smaller pads that strap together easily.

Second this. I have two 3x4’s plus a small 2x3ish auxiliary pad, and I regularly use all 3 at once. Strap them together or maybe look at the Mad Rock Duo - it includes a system to carry a second pad. 

Scott D · · San Diego · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0
Short Fall Sean wrote: It sounds like you're planning on doing more bouldering since it can be done solo? If so I'd recommend a big pad. As an awkward introvert, I spend plenty of time doing various forms of solo climbing, and it's often surprising how little a problem has to traverse or overhang before you're no longer above your little 3' x 4' pad. The extra area of something like the BD Mondo or the Triple Mad Pad is definitely welcome. Or possibly even better, get two smaller pads that strap together easily.

A trifold would be great for my current, solo needs and this seems like prudent advice. I'd love the extra size for safety, and longer term if I build a wall at home then a trifold seems ideal. 

However, when things return to "normal" I probably won't boulder much and if I do it would likely be with other people. A small pad would be easier to bring along casual for sport climbing, camping, or a picnic (although a trifold would make a nice bed). 


Maybe it's folly to try and have one pad for everything. Lots to consider. 
Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 280
Scotty D wrote:

A trifold would be great for my current, solo needs and this seems like prudent advice. I'd love the extra size for safety, and longer term if I build a wall at home then a trifold seems ideal. 

However, when things return to "normal" I probably won't boulder much and if I do it would likely be with other people. A small pad would be easier to bring along casual for sport climbing, camping, or a picnic (although a trifold would make a nice bed). 


Maybe it's folly to try and have one pad for everything. Lots to consider. 

My trifold is actually fairly light and ok for carrying things. It also makes a nice couch and is my bed with a sheet of foam over it

Will O · · Marquette, MI · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 10,312

I started out with two Mad Rock Madpads. They're extremely light, but the fabric is not durable and the foam softened significantly after a few years. Several of my frequent partners have Metolius pads, I'm not a fan. They're thin and heavy, I've hurt my ankle bottoming them out before. I replaced my Madpads with an Organic big pad and I'm never going back. They're much more durable and while on the heavy side, have higher quality foam. Would highly recommend forking out the extra cash for a pad that'll last.

Jon Rust · · Chesterbrook, PA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

I'd go big if I were you, especially if you plan to buy only one. The sizes vary, of course, and I only just realized this, but trifolds are roughly twice as big as regular pads -- around 24 sq ft (6x4) vs 12 (4x3).

Luke Lydiard · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,069

I currently own an Organic, a Mad Rock, and a Black Diamond Mondo. I've also owned two Metolius pads in the past.

If you really want to get 15 years out of a pad I'd highly recommend an Organic brand pad. The foam used by Organic does not seem to deteriorate (become softer) over time like other pads. The quality of fabric and stitching is also very high with Organic.

The Black Diamond Mondo is decent in both foam quality and construction. My only complaint is that it lacks a suitcase style handle along the seam on the underside which would be useful for quick relocation between problems.

Just like everything they sell, the Mad Rock pads are cheap junk. I own a the triple fold model. The straps are are not sewn on correctly, the foam has become very soft, and the third section is slowly becoming detached due to poor quality thread. It is also made from a much lighter weight Cordura than most other pads. I highly recommend crossing the Mad Rock off your list of pads to consider.

The two Metolius pads I owned were also of decent quality. The buckles used on those pads are much nicer than others and the way they pack up is also well thought out. I would say that the Metolius pads are equal in quality and value to the Black Diamond offerings.

In summary, you get what you pay for with crash pads. My recommendation is to consider spending a few extra dollars and getting an Organic Simple Pad rather than any of the pads on your list.

Andrew Boechler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0

I notice you haven't mentioned anything about Flashed. I would recommend checking them out at least. 

Marcelo F · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

If you're going solo, I'd definitely agree with the advice to get two pads that strap together well, or at least make sure one has a comfortable suitcase handle. You'll look dumb hiking with all that on you, but it's worth it. One big pad is a little less versatile depending on how much the problem wanders or how rocky/uneven the landing is.

I've used Metolius and Black Diamond and both felt equally high-quality. The Metolius has lasted about 10 years, but it's starting to get a little thin. You'll be safe with either brand. Organic pads sure are pretty though and felt just as good on the rare occasion I got to use one.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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