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Beginner Face TR Climbing San Diego County

Original Post
Caleb Green · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0

Me and my buddy have been climbing indoors for some time, and we want to start getting onto some rock faces for our climbs. We've been looking around the mountain project, but most of the routes we've seen have been crack climbs or trad routes (which we'd rather not do for now). Any ideas for some good TR face climbs in San Diego? Thanks guys

Russell Houghten · · San Diego, CA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 1,260

Mission gorge will be your best bet. Easy top rope access and lots of routes. Turkey chute and as the crow flies will be a good intro, both have two bolt anchors.

Jev K · · SoCal · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 0
Russell Houghten wrote: Mission gorge will be your best bet. Easy top rope access and lots of routes. Turkey chute and as the crow flies will be a good intro, both have two bolt anchors.

Yep. These were my first outdoor routes and the first ones I've ever led as well. 

Greg Davis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10

Second the gorge

Take your time, look around, be safe and have fun. 

Evan Day · · San Diego, CA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Agree with the recommendation for beginner TR, but check if it's open right now.  I was there on 5/3 and a ranger told everyone climbing to stop.  The county and park guidelines on what you can do in Mission Trails don't explicitly mention climbing either way, but it would appear that they're interpreting the list of what you can do (hike/jog/bike) as an exclusive list.  Parking lot is also closed.

If anyone has more recent information, I would appreciate it.

Jeff B · · San Diego · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

If doing The Tower, Turkey Chute, and As the Crow Flies get there EARLY!  I'm sure its not an issue right now but on every weekend morning there is usually a gym to crag or boy scout troop camped at those routes.  Not to worry, there are other routes near by that have accessible anchors like ABACABA (although can have a bit of a swing).  

Another option is to find a buddy who wouldn't mind rope gunning for you.  Plenty of easier routes but require a lead to get to the anchor.  Usually a few beers and not dropping them when belaying helps.  :) 

Jason Kim · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 255

Mission Gorge is still closed to climbing as of today:

https://mtrp.org/message-from-mission-trails-regional-park/

Andrew G · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 404

usually mission gorge would be the best bet, but santee has a couple worthwhile topropes with walk up access on the dogpile boulder and the bullethole boulder, though they're off a single bolt .

John K in San Diego · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 20
Decanso Wall may be getting a bit warm, but it's reasonably easy to set a top rope there and it's not generally as crowded as Mission Gorge is.  
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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