How's the climbing in Austin

To preface, I'm super new any way so I'll probably be cool with anything. Anyway, went to Utah (for the hiking, always been really stoked on that) and got into climbing not long before COVID happened. Those two events made me realize I wanted to be closer to nature, for both hiking and climbing. Looked into Denver a lot over quarantine but seems like a lot of people that live there aren't that into it and apparently the nightlife/dating scene is really rough. So now I'm kind of thinking about going back to the Austin area. I'm a Houston native, went to school just outside of Austin in San Marcos, so I spent a lot of the past 4 years in the Austin area and love it there, and currently living/working in Dallas. I really like the lifestyle of Austin and have done a decent amount of hiking in the area, I guess enough to get me by. Now I'm wondering how the climbing/bouldering is? Obviously it doesn't come close to anything in Colorado I'm sure, but is it decent enough for it to be noteworthy? How's the climbing community as well? Thanks in advance for the info 

Interested to see what others say but I like it alright. Plenty of limestone crags to keep you busy and Enchanted Rock has some moderate runout multi pitch and trad if that’s your thing. I give it 3/5 stars for climbing. Other positive is you can nearly climb year round, just be prepared to deal with the summer heat. 

The discussion of climbing in Austin was covered a few months back. Did you look at the archives? It was specific to someone was new to the area, w/ limited transportation, and wanted feedback. Might help.

Patrick C wrote: The discussion of climbing in Austin was covered a few months back. Did you look at the archives? It was specific to someone was new to the area, w/ limited transportation, and wanted feedback. Might help.

Yeah I read that one. Was mostly suggestions/tips into the public transportation of Austin instead of climbing. I am also not new to the area or limited on transportation. 

Travis S wrote: Interested to see what others say but I like it alright. Plenty of limestone crags to keep you busy and Enchanted Rock has some moderate runout multi pitch and trad if that’s your thing. I give it 3/5 stars for climbing. Other positive is you can nearly climb year round, just be prepared to deal with the summer heat. 

3/5? That's pretty decent for sure. Thanks for the info 

When I was in Austin, I was grateful that there was something to climb.  My kiddo graduated HS and I moved to CO.

If I were moving and I wanted climbing, I don't think I'd go to Austin.  

There are nice folks there who climb there... when I go back, I can usually find someone I like to climb with.  And there is enough stuff to keep me busy between eRock, Reimers, and the greenbelt.

But it's really not good climbing.  Better than Dallas... I mean, Dallas has McKinny Falls, and SW Oklahoma, I guess...

I'd give it 1/5 starts for climbing... like, it "has" climbing, but that's all.  I'm currently in in Durango,... I'd give DGO 3/5 for climbing because the climbing here is nice-- there's a lot, there's vareity, but I don't think people would come here for the climbing by itself.  If you like Austin, then by all means go, but personally as far as climbing Id be way frustrated if I had to go back to that place.

If you’re coming from Utah or Denver, the climbing in Austin is absolutely horrible.  It’s great that it’s there, I’d rather be there than here (Chicago) which has no climbing at all, but it doesn’t even come close to holding a candle to the west.

John Reeve wrote: When I was in Austin, I was grateful that there was something to climb.  My kiddo graduated HS and I moved to CO.

If I were moving and I wanted climbing, I don't think I'd go to Austin.  

There are nice folks there who climb there... when I go back, I can usually find someone I like to climb with.  And there is enough stuff to keep me busy between eRock, Reimers, and the greenbelt.

But it's really not good climbing.  Better than Dallas... I mean, Dallas has McKinny Falls, and SW Oklahoma, I guess...

I'd give it 1/5 starts for climbing... like, it "has" climbing, but that's all.  I'm currently in in Durango,... I'd give DGO 3/5 for climbing because the climbing here is nice-- there's a lot, there's vareity, but I don't think people would come here for the climbing by itself.  If you like Austin, then by all means go, but personally as far as climbing Id be way frustrated if I had to go back to that place.

Curious what major cities get 4/5 and 5/5 in your book if any? 

Travis S wrote:

Curious what major cities get 4/5 and 5/5 in your book if any? 

Of the places I've been, Tuscon and Moab, respectively.

That doesn't seem like a crazypants grading there.

I lived in Dallas for a bit and would drive to Austin for some fun weekends of great food, drinks, and steep limestone climbing. There are some great crags around Austin and Pace Bends offers amazing DWS.

To whomever reading this. I just moved here.... PM me and let’s go climb.

Johnny Utah wrote: To preface, I'm super new any way so I'll probably be cool with anything. Anyway, went to Utah (for the hiking, always been really stoked on that) and got into climbing not long before COVID happened. Those two events made me realize I wanted to be closer to nature, for both hiking and climbing. Looked into Denver a lot over quarantine but seems like a lot of people that live there aren't that into it and apparently the nightlife/dating scene is really rough. So now I'm kind of thinking about going back to the Austin area. I'm a Houston native, went to school just outside of Austin in San Marcos, so I spent a lot of the past 4 years in the Austin area and love it there, and currently living/working in Dallas. I really like the lifestyle of Austin and have done a decent amount of hiking in the area, I guess enough to get me by. Now I'm wondering how the climbing/bouldering is? Obviously it doesn't come close to anything in Colorado I'm sure, but is it decent enough for it to be noteworthy? How's the climbing community as well? Thanks in advance for the info 

The Greenbelt is so polished in so many places that whatever you onsight there will probably feel easy in most other places.

If you move here and want to climb, message me. I'm always looking for reliable and competent partners, and two are soon moving to Colorado.

I don't care if you're new. We'll climb my shouldn't-fall grades and I'll teach you what you want. And if you get stronger than me and want to move on, I'll get that. Bonus if you want to do trad at Enchanted Rock.

Just please don't fall into the cults the local gyms have created. Climb there if you must, but don't drink the Kool-Aid.

John Reeve wrote:

Of the places I've been, Tuscon and Moab, respectively.

That doesn't seem like a crazypants grading there.

Well I don’t think Moab is a place that many people can realistically move to and have a real job. I guess that was never a requirement of the OP just something in my head. But I won’t argue that climbing in Austin is better than either of those areas. I would say Austin culture/night life/etc is perhaps a bit more entertaining. 

Travis S wrote:

Well I don’t think Moab is a place that many people can realistically move to and have a real job. I guess that was never a requirement of the OP just something in my head. But I won’t argue that climbing in Austin is better than either of those areas. I would say Austin culture/night life/etc is perhaps a bit more entertaining. 

I agree with all that.

FWIW, I haven't been to Vegas or climbed around Salt Lake City, but both of those places look like they'd be 5/5 and hit your requirement of having a chance of getting a job.

To the OP, take a weekend and go climb with Bob at E-Rock and see what you think.  He's good to climb with (or wass the one time I climbed with him), and erock is generally as interesting as the climbing gets in Texas (Hueco is Mexico, I think :D ).

John Reeve wrote: To the OP, take a weekend and go climb with Bob at E-Rock and see what you think.  He's good to climb with (or wass the one time I climbed with him), and erock is generally as interesting as the climbing gets in Texas (Hueco is Mexico, I think :D ).

You got me on a good day, lol.

But I appreciate it, man. I hope you're loving it in CO!

John Reeve wrote: When I was in Austin, I was grateful that there was something to climb.  My kiddo graduated HS and I moved to CO.

If I were moving and I wanted climbing, I don't think I'd go to Austin.  

There are nice folks there who climb there... when I go back, I can usually find someone I like to climb with.  And there is enough stuff to keep me busy between eRock, Reimers, and the greenbelt.

But it's really not good climbing.  Better than Dallas... I mean, Dallas has McKinny Falls, and SW Oklahoma, I guess...

I'd give it 1/5 starts for climbing... like, it "has" climbing, but that's all.  I'm currently in in Durango,... I'd give DGO 3/5 for climbing because the climbing here is nice-- there's a lot, there's vareity, but I don't think people would come here for the climbing by itself.  If you like Austin, then by all means go, but personally as far as climbing Id be way frustrated if I had to go back to that place.

Thanks for the input! I just think at my age, 25 going on 26 this year, I'm just looking for somewhere to settle down, or at least grow some roots for a few years. I know I would be happy in Austin, it's a safer choice than Denver which I would be far away from family and don't know anyone. I'm still going to visit and see what it's like though just in case. 

Robert S wrote:

The Greenbelt is so polished in so many places that whatever you onsight there will probably feel easy in most other places.

If you move here and want to climb, message me. I'm always looking for reliable and competent partners, and two are soon moving to Colorado.

I don't care if you're new. We'll climb my shouldn't-fall grades and I'll teach you what you want. And if you get stronger than me and want to move on, I'll get that. Bonus if you want to do trad at Enchanted Rock.

Just please don't fall into the cults the local gyms have created. Climb there if you must, but don't drink the Kool-Aid.

Man, that would be awesome. I will definitely take you up on that if I move back to the area or come down for a weekend. And haha what do you mean by the Kool-Aid at the gyms? I've only been a few times and then it closed because of COVID but really stoked on them opening back up soon. I'm going to be joining a brand new one in the area and will definitely be there the day it opens. 

Travis S wrote:

Well I don’t think Moab is a place that many people can realistically move to and have a real job. I guess that was never a requirement of the OP just something in my head. But I won’t argue that climbing in Austin is better than either of those areas. I would say Austin culture/night life/etc is perhaps a bit more entertaining. 

Fortunately, between my two choices of Austin and Denver, I would be able to work in either cities for the industry I'm in. If I moved to Denver I might even be able to stick with my current company since we have an office there. Unfortunately I don't see the Austin office on our website anymore so would probably have to find a new job if I went there. And yeah the Austin scene/night life is definitely what is drawing me in. Can't really speak for Denver but I haven't heard great things. 

Yeah Austin is definitely a cool town.  Tons of fun stuff to do, night life is great, food/people etc.  Just don’t expect world class rock.  Plus side is EPC is within easy driving distance for weekend trips.

Johnny Utah wrote:

And haha what do you mean by the Kool-Aid at the gyms?  

Austin has a cultish gym climbing community. It's really weird and really comes out in the local FB group. Some of us call the popular gym Cult Climbing Center. Management also does some shady things.

When that new gym opens, I hope you and lots of others join it. I'd love to see Cult lose a lot of business.

Anyway, enough of that. When you get here, let me know if you want to climb. Or join the Texas Climbers group I started on Facebook and find me there. I'm mostly okay to hang with as long as you can put up with my bitching about dogs, hammocks, music, etc. lol.