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Any history of climbing on "blue rock" or "the fin" in smoke hole canyon?

Original Post
I F · · Megalopolis Adjacent · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 4,368

With all the extra free time I've been delving through maps and internet stuff and stumbled upon a formation call "blue rock" or "the fin" in smoke hole canyon. I found a couple pictures and references to it, but very little information otherwise. I'm just curious if anyone here knows of any climbing history on the formation? Couldn't seem to turn up anything besides "blue ridge rock climbing guides" while searching.

Also my bad if I'm blowing up someone's secret, I was just curious.

Jim Panzee · · Tree · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 138
A couple of weeks back I had the same question so I contacted Mike Gray via email, he is the man behind most of the development in the area this was his response.
Jonny Hudson · · Thomas, WV · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

Mike Grey is wrong about a "moratorium". Route development can continue as usual.

I F · · Megalopolis Adjacent · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 4,368
Jonny Hudson wrote: Mike Grey is wrong about a "moratorium". Route development can continue as usual.

I also had contact with someone who runs the "smokehole canyon" facebook page and they corroborated the moratorium. Do you have anything saying that its over/not actually in place?

skinny legs · · Beast Coast · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 87
Ian F wrote:

I also had contact with someone who runs the "smokehole canyon" facebook page and they corroborated the moratorium. Do you have anything saying that its over/not actually in place?

Mike Gray would rather that he be the only one to place bolts anywhere in the area, including his own bum.

Matt Fanning · · Fayetteville, WV · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 50

That remote end of the canyon is incredible. Blue rock only has a couple lines. There's a few old bolts scattered around and on the left side I found old rusty pitons. Old house rock is just up river and is a better sport crag with around 20 routes at an average grade of 12+(several cool tuffa routes). Bring a 70 meter rope. The best way to access this section is to float in (10 mile through float) when the river is at about 3 feet. The NF property borders private land near the cliffs making it difficult( not impossible) to hike in legal like. Please do your homework and respect private land. It appears that Mike didn't know about the climbing in this section of the canyon and made up the moratorium as a result. 

Mike Gray · · Franklin, West by God Virginia · Joined Sep 2023 · Points: 0
Matt Fanning wrote: That remote end of the canyon is incredible. Blue rock only has a couple lines. There's a few old bolts scattered around and on the left side I found old rusty pitons. Old house rock is just up river and is a better sport crag with around 20 routes at an average grade of 12+(several cool tuffa routes). Bring a 70 meter rope. The best way to access this section is to float in (10 mile through float) when the river is at about 3 feet. The NF property borders private land near the cliffs making it difficult( not impossible) to hike in legal like. Please do your homework and respect private land. It appears that Mike didn't know about the climbing in this section of the canyon and made up the moratorium as a result. 

Hi, Matt! Hi, skinny legs!

Actually the bolting moratorium was information given to me by the Monongahela National Forest Recreational Staff officer, Alex Schleuter. 

I then passed that information along to you and your homies and all of the other climbers that I could get in touch with, trying to keep you from having unpleasant surprises while bolting routes.

(Just as I passed along the maps showing you and your crew which crags were and were not private property... but that little courtesy seems to have slipped your mind.)

After conversations between the National Forest, the Mid-Atlantic Climbers and the Access Fund (conversations to which no other climbers are privy even to this day), Alex then reversed course, and denied everything during a zoom meeting regarding the climbing management plan. Apparently, saying bolts are illegal does not mean there is a moratorium. Maybe in the future we can ask the national forest to explain to us exactly how that works.

As for the lower canyon, I first saw Blue Rock and the lower canyon in 1995. 

Get over yourself.

I guess it was too good an opportunity in your drab little climbing fairy tale to pass up at least one more attempt to make Mike Gray the villain.

Too bad you never actually had the guts to show up at any crag and say any of this to my face.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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