Planning a Trip...Best Spots to Hit for (Multi-Pitch) Sport Climbing?

Hi Everybody!

Before anybody comments, “STAY HOME!”, I’m planning a trip for when things settle down. My buddy and I want to do a 2-ish week circuit through Montana, Wyoming, and South Dakota. We’d like to pick 2 or 3 prime spots to spend a few days each, one of which we’d like to be in Glacier NP. Any suggestions for must-hit spots? I would like to do some multi-pitch sport climbing (I know, I should just start trad climbing, I don’t have gear yet). We climb up to 5.11 but would probably max out at 5.10 on multi-pitch. 

I appreciate any suggestions!
Harrison

Wyoming is way more stacked with world class areas. Devils tower has great multi pitch climbs. Weather will be your determining factor...tensleep and lander have great sport climbing, vedawoo has incredible trad climbing and both are higher elevation making them good hot weather crags. The bighorns in general are incredibly good sport destination. Be sure to pick up Rock Climbs of the eastern bighorns guidebook if you head to the crags near Sheridan and Buffalo Wyoming. Glacier does not have classic climbing, but if you are heading there irregardless, the tetons and southwest Montana have good alpine climbing. The Gallatin canyon is Montana's best climbing area, with incredible rock and great climbs at all grades, mostly trad and many good multi pitch climbs. Multi pitch sport can be found in the bridger range near Bozeman on pretty good limestone. 

I have not had the pleasure of climbing here, but I do know people who have.  Since  it seems it will be some time before travel is permitted, this may be the time to hit up El Potrero Chico.

Edited to say that I did not realize this was in a specific forum, but decided to leave it due to the possibility that open climbing may begin when it becomes too cold to climb in the north.

Ty Gittins wrote: Wyoming is way more stacked with world class areas. Devils tower has great multi pitch climbs. Weather will be your determining factor...tensleep and lander have great sport climbing, vedawoo has incredible trad climbing and both are higher elevation making them good hot weather crags. The bighorns in general are incredibly good sport destination. Be sure to pick up Rock Climbs of the eastern bighorns guidebook if you head to the crags near Sheridan and Buffalo Wyoming. Glacier does not have classic climbing, but if you are heading there irregardless, the tetons and southwest Montana have good alpine climbing. The Gallatin canyon is Montana's best climbing area, with incredible rock and great climbs at all grades, mostly trad and many good multi pitch climbs. Multi pitch sport can be found in the bridger range near Bozeman on pretty good limestone. 

Ty, thanks for the great info. Devils tower is unworldly and I’ve always been interested in seeing it, let alone climb it. Have also hear great things about Gallatin. Thanks for the book rec.

Blackleaf canyon in Montana has bolted multi pitch climbs on limestone in an incredible location. Short approach and you’re likely to have the place to yourself. 

Yes, look in the Bridger Range near Bozeman for some amazing multipitch "sport" routes. They are bolted, but some gear is advised, and spacing can be spicy. 

There is a really nice multi pitch crag in Jackson Hole called rock springs buttress, if you are in western Wyoming. There are 4 star sport routes in the 5.10, 5.11 and 5.12 range.

Second on blackleaf. 

Cody WY has some great moderate multipitch sport climbs. Blackleaf is pretty cool and is on the way to glacier. Ross Peak outside of Bozeman has some spicy 9 pitch sport routes in the 5.11 range. Sacred silence is a great route, one pitch of well protected mid 5.11 then its all 5.9 to the summit, go gear required. Also worth looking into the Frazier Lake routes in the bridgers too. You need to place gear but its like 90% bolted

Mike Zamzow wrote: Blackleaf canyon in Montana has bolted multi pitch climbs on limestone in an incredible location. Short approach and you’re likely to have the place to yourself. 

Is there a good guide book for the area? MP is pretty sparse on info

There is an old guidebook that is outta print for blackleaf. Maybe helena has some somewhere. Its called "Central Montana Rock" Sometimes there are topos posted on the board at the trailhead(people horseback into the bob marshall from here) its a cool spot thats worth checking for sure. Homeboys on soy is cool and I just took a set of nuts for extra gear and it seemed fine. You will be at your max grade for most of them as lots of things are in the 5.10-5.11 range for at least a pitch on the route.