Is TRX training worthwhile or just total BS?

I'm not fully convinced core training is useful at all, but have been dong a 20-30 minute routine in the gym on my off days just because.

Now that the gym is closed, I've been trying some TRX stuff, but frankly hate it.

So what do you all think?
Persevere, since it's totally as important as, oh, I don't know, dead hangs?
Or bag it and read Ulysses on the Kindle?

Why in god's name would it be total BS? If done properly, you can train the exact same muscle groups as with any other kind of full-body workout...

Reading Ulysses, now that's a proper waste of time!

I built my own and its turned into and amazing tool for my shoulders and core. I am over 6ft  around 180lbs with a torn labrum  and this  training helped immensely.

I can do full Locked out levers Iron cross ect other stuff for my shoulders and get an amazing tranverse abdominal work out. Really forces you to work muscles that are hard to acess otherwise.

Edit build on my trx copy was less than 6 bucks

Its pvc  athletic tape and  5mm cord. the pulley is unessasry at first. It is however really incredible when you can get a benefit from it.  I have gone from a kinda garbage camp pulley all the way up to a 3 inch  ballbearing based omni block. 

@Rob- you can really do iron crosses? Pretty cool.

@ Victor- I probably wasn't clear enough.
I'm interested in getting strong only to the extent it helps my climbing.
I've no doubt TRX can get you strong, but unless it's useful and efficient for climbing I'd rather be reading War and Peace.

I think it as helped alot. I think the point i ment to convay was... TRX the brand is cringy. Its trying really hard to convince you of the value and encourage to you to buy into the ecosystem. At somthing like 160 for the unit plus their stupid classes and ranks. 

My copy, is superior in every way that matters. Especially prices as all you need are two 6in lengths of 1 in PVC pipe and about 9ft of 5mm cord. I have used a variety of pulleys to increase the challange as i became accustomed to  challange.  

I have noticed that my core controls swings and keeps my feet on much longer than before.

However i cant really tell if its been as good as i think dude to a nagging multiyear head injury so i climb lime shit but my shoulders and core are strong.

@Rob- bummer about your TBI. Hope you keep making progress.
You are getting me inspired to fiddle with the bits of rope, etc I have around the house.
I feel like a lot of 'core strength' is actually shoulder stability and have picked my TRX core exercises specifically to avoid working my shoulders.
I'm doing the core stuff on 'rest days' and really do need the rest between shoulder sessions (which can be training or climbing days.)
But I just don't feel like planks, mountain climbers, pikes, etc are doing me that much good.
OTOH, TRX flys and inverted rows, I can see the benefit.
Maybe I'll try to incorporate some of those into the weight routine I've been using.
And just rest more on the rest days.

Mark E Dixon wrote: I'm not fully convinced core training is useful at all, but have been dong a 20-30 minute routine in the gym on my off days just because.

Now that the gym is closed, I've been trying some TRX stuff, but frankly hate it.

So what do you all think?
Persevere, since it's totally as important as, oh, I don't know, dead hangs?
Or bag it and read Ulysses on the Kindle?

​
Thought this was a poor trolling attempt (could still be right), but I’m curious how long you’ve been climbing to not realize or outright refute that core tension (and hangboarding?) are not beneficial to climbing?

Core tension is responsible for being able to control dynamic movement/momentum, such as barn-doors and swinging from dynos, as well as sticking/holding deadpoint moves and moving out of them. A strong core is essential in hard climbing and though doing core exercise is about as fun to me as watching paint dry, it’s worth working and translates to much better control in my climbing. Especially now that climbing is at a minimum, it will maintain whatever core strength you had before, and will build on it the more you do. The TRX isn’t necessary for a core workout either, I made one using slings, rope, carabiners and handles that clip to those for about $30. There’s a plethora of core exercises and you can look them up and choose which are most fun to you, you don’t have to do ones that are a mix of cardio-core such as mountain climbers, etc.
I wouldn’t shy away from shoulder work either, from an injury-prevention standpoint.

https://www.trainingbeta.com/matt-pincus-principles-of-core-training/ 
Take a look at this, because you’re right elbow planks, crunches, and bicycles are useless for core after a point. I don’t know what grade you’re climbing, but realistically core endurance (bicycles, crunches, planks) is pointless because core endurance never really fails before forearm endurance. Also, the functional core in climbing is either initiating movement (placing a high foot delicately and precisely on an overhang), or stopping/preventing unwanted movement (i.e. being extended on an overhang without cutting, or stopping a swing ASAP). Therefore, workouts that do mimic these (hanging leg raises and ab wheels among others) are worthwhile and core endurance workouts or workouts that target explosive power in the core (planks, bicycles, or crunches) are not worthwhile.
PS: that being said, I know people who use TRX bands for functional core workouts like using them as harder ab wheels by extending out on them, which has merit, but I would never blow the money. Check out these DIY methods mentioned above, seems worthwhile

D Elliot wrote:
Thought this was a poor trolling attempt (could still be right), but I’m curious how long you’ve been climbing to not realize or outright refute that core tension (and hangboarding?) are not beneficial to climbing?

Core tension is responsible for being able to control dynamic movement/momentum, such as barn-doors and swinging from dynos, as well as sticking/holding deadpoint moves and moving out of them. A strong core is essential in hard climbing and though doing core exercise is about as fun to me as watching paint dry, it’s worth working and translates to much better control in my climbing. Especially now that climbing is at a minimum, it will maintain whatever core strength you had before, and will build on it the more you do. The TRX isn’t necessary for a core workout either, I made one using slings, rope, carabiners and handles that clip to those for about $30. There’s a plethora of core exercises and you can look them up and choose which are most fun to you, you don’t have to do ones that are a mix of cardio-core such as mountain climbers, etc.
I wouldn’t shy away from shoulder work either, from an injury-prevention standpoint.

@ D- Not trolling exactly, but trying to spark a little controversy so as to get some replies. 

The training forum has been pretty dead the last couple of years.

FWIW, this is my 50th year of climbing. How about yourself?

@ Ben- thanks for reminding me of the Matt Pincus article. I should review it.
I used his principles to construct my 'core' routine but now that the gym is closed I don't have the equipment I need to follow that routine any more.
Hence the TRX straps (actually a cheap knockoff- I'm not paying that much for straps!)

There's an interview with Dave Wahl on Thundercling in which he says that most climbers have more core (ie abdominal and posterior chain) strength than they need but lack the technical ability and habit to use it properly.

I'm more and more convinced that what climbers need is actually shoulder stability- the strength to keep your shoulder blades down and in (scapular depression and retraction.)
In general I favor strength and power exercises, consistent with what I recall from the Matt Pincus article, but this particular scapular movement might be better trained for endurance.

If you watch someone fail on a steep route, often the first thing you see is their butt sagging.
This can be interpreted as their core failing.
It has certainly happened to me many times!
But my abs never felt tired.
My back extensors are plenty strong and never felt tired.
But my shoulders, my ability to pull, especially with my shoulders "packed" (ie with my scapula depressed and retracted) that definitely gives out.

Also @ Ben- I'm currently short projecting 12b-c. Have done a couple of 13as, but the last one was a couple years ago.
Would really like to do an 8a this year, but seems like a stretch.

Fortunately grades around Boulder are notoriously soft :-)

Fully agree. Diet isn’t that important either, there are a lot of 300 pound climbers out there.

Mark E Dixon wrote:

@ D- Not trolling exactly, but trying to spark a little controversy so as to get some replies. 

The training forum has been pretty dead the last couple of years.

FWIW, this is my 50th year of climbing. How about yourself?
There's an interview with Dave Wahl on Thundercling in which he says that most climbers have more core (ie abdominal and posterior chain) strength than they need but lack the technical ability and habit to use it properly.

I'm more and more convinced that what climbers need is actually shoulder stability- the strength to keep your shoulder blades down and in (scapular depression and retraction.)
In general I favor strength and power exercises, consistent with what I recall from the Matt Pincus article, but this particular scapular movement might be better trained for endurance.

If you watch someone fail on a steep route, often the first thing you see is their butt sagging.
This can be interpreted as their core failing.
It has certainly happened to me many times!
But my abs never felt tired.
My back extensors are plenty strong and never felt tired.
But my shoulders, my ability to pull, especially with my shoulders "packed" (ie with my scapula depressed and retracted) that definitely gives out.

Well in that case, I respect a fellow salty shit-stirrer.
I hope to have 50 years of climbing, I have 6, heavily involved in training & competing...well, was, until this fine year. Now I’m scrounging what weights, rope, slings, and hang boards I have and doing what I can, which is consisting of strength, core, hangboarding and circuits on a recently built spray wall. 
I would agree many neglect shoulders, and personally know several that have torn rotator cuffs or other related injuries. Proper form when weightlifting, or even working out in general, is a long-standing problem, which I believe translates into climbing and technique to an extent, and eventual strain/injury. Many have the wrong idea and are too overzealous with hangboarding/campusing too, and that has its own growing injury issue. They’d be much better off finding a better balance of IP exercises than striving to add weight rapidly or straining to hang on the smallest edge they can.
Core is important but I think each person is different with that. I have a strenuous job that is 9-12 hours of utilizing heavy core, so between that and climbing, I don’t put extreme emphasis on it in training. It would probably benefit someone more who has a job that involves extended sitting or minimal movement. That being said, I mainly work exercises that target climbing-specific core, but I don’t enjoy it. I also hate cardio, and boxing is the only way I can stand to get that in. 

So... as much as i want to shit on things for being too easy.

Everything in personal fitness can scale and can be made a challange.

Planks which everyone shits on are crazy hard and useful for climbing when you add.  

1 weight, i can hold a weighted plank with 180lbs for 1 minute last time i messed with it.
2 transverse loading,  lift/ elevate your feet, use 1 foot instead of 2 ect  practice diagonal cross body oblique centric loading  patterns.

3 Practice moving your arms or legs or both  deliberately  under load while loaded diagonaly.

4 as stated metabolic stress is less of factor but a great training stimulus. So stack exorcises in blocks or supersets.

Lolololololololol my training goals are silly but atleast these i think make a differance keeping my shoulders and core strong.