CAMP Goblin

Hi folks,

I know there's a facebook group, but I'm not on facebook (I'm a dinosaur...I don't have a mobile phone).  Hence ANOTHER solo device thread.

Does anybody have first-hand experience with the CAMP Goblin?

My use if top rope soling, mostly on ice, some rock. This will be my back-up device on a second strand, following me up and down the rope, hopefully without much attention as I climb.  

I have used a Petzl ASAP for this purpose, but I find that the teeth "micro-shred" the rope and lead to some icing issues when the conditions are right (close to 0 degrees, some moisture) 

Specific questions
Does the Goblin move up and down the rope easily without annoying problems?

Does the Goblin lock when you fall?

Does the function to lock/position the device up high work as intended?

Any other problems/issues?

OK, many thanks,

Bruno

Thanks--that's great info.  I'm curious about the way that it runs down the rope as well.  For example, in a TR solo set up, with the Gobin as a secondary device, will it run down easily as a rap with another device on the other line?  Thanks again. B.

Hey Bruno! We should try to snag one and see how it works in the coming months...I'm due to meet the CAMP France folks here....I've worked a ton with CAMP USA and they've been awesome and most important---honest about strengths/shortcomings of particular pieces of equipment. I'll see if I can snag a Goblin....

Owe you a phone call--soon! RC

Bruno Schull wrote: Thanks--that's great info.  I'm curious about the way that it runs down the rope as well.  For example, in a TR solo set up, with the Gobin as a secondary device, will it run down easily as a rap with another device on the other line?  Thanks again. B.

It will, provided your attachment lanyard, etc is nearly vertical to the Goblin. Then it will "lead" you down quite well as you downclimb. However if you pull back a bit and the lanyard begins to leave the Goblin at a bit of an angle (from vertical), you have to tend it on the way down. And in either mode, it will catch if you fall. I use one as my fall prevention device, while climbing the framework of a climbing wall, for maintenance purposes. I've not fallen on it, but have tested it manually, so there is that caveat for you to consider.

The goblin lanyard comes with a red plastic wishbone kinda thing.  It attaches to the rope to keep the goblin oriented corrently when descending.  If you domt have one you will need to mind it down.  

Hmmm....

For the Golbin to run smoothly down the rope, everything needs to be aligned perfectly, and perhaps special lanyard/plastic thingys are needed.

Maybe the ASAP is better for my purposes.  Aside from the icing I mentioned above, and just a little more friction that I would like, the ASAP is basically a "set it and forget it" back up piece.  Maybe I'll have to try the ASAP Lock for the positioning function.

So many devices, so little time.

Rob!  Nice to see your post.  I guess you a just as big a gear nerd as the rest of us? :)  Give me a call 00 41 (0)61 301 0724 and let's set something up!

I got a goblin a few weeks ago to self belay with on my home wall. The wall is 20ft tall and slightly overhanging. With a bit of modification I’ve found it works really really well both up and down. (I mainly do circuits up and down and the goblin is awesome for the ability to climb unencumbered and not even think about it being there)

However I have created very specific conditions for the device to not lock up on the way down.
1) I down climb directly in line with my fixed rope not out to the side.
2) I hang the device directly off my belay loop but above it I have a small non load bearing carabiner attached to my chaulk bag strap via a magnetic coupler (my magnet was repurposed from my fishing net quick release and is VERY strong) I clip this to the fixed rope and it tends the rope running over the tiny pulley in the goblin and encourages it not or lock up. If I fall the angle changes pulling apart the “magnet rope tender” and engaging the devise. I think this is superior to the rope surfer and lanyard but I haven’t tried it.

3) I slightly weight the rope with a shoe or something to keep it feeding through device

I did not get a CAMP rope surfer lanyard as mentioned above because it looks like it would make the fall enormous without a chest harness which I don’t like. I don’t see how it would work well to extend it that high as your chest is often farther from the wall and would engage the devise easier than if at your hips which stay against wall. I also don’t think that little horseshoe think will run up and down the rope and resist enough outward force to be effective

I have learned from this:

1) the angle the rope entering the goblin must be managed somehow to make downclimbibg reliable.
2) even with modifications if you are not within a few degrees (>5-10) of plumb below your anchor the rope angle will cause the devise to engage.
3) falling on the goblin is a little spooky if it’s hanging right off your belay loop and it slides a bit on skinnier than recommended ropes. 

Also unless your gonna rig some crazy double goblin redundant setup (which would weigh a ton) it’s hard to make it redundant when down climbing and therefore why not just have two micro trax?
So I love my goblin as a cheap “auto belay” and it works really well under those circumstances. I don’t think it would work as well out at the crag unless you’ve got a plumb route which for some reason you want to down climb large sections of. Would love to see if anyone else has used a rope surfer for this purpose or some other mod for down climbing although I’m happy with my setup.