Micro Cams

With all the different flexible stem small cams on the market, what’s your opinion on the best small cams? If you have used more than one type, which did you prefer and why? Every time I see C3’s show up on this form, they get picked up quickly, but i have heard some say they prefer the X4’s to them. With the new Z4’s out, are they better? I have also heard people who swear to the aliens, and the dragonfly’s, and who can forget, the black totem. What’s your take?

I only have experience with X4s and Z4s, and Z4 > X4

C3's are my favorite, hands down! Biggest down side is that they only go up to roughly .3. Their narrow head width and asymmetric lobes make them a dream for tight/awkward placements, especially pin scars. They can also take a beating.

X4's are my next pick. Their heads are also very narrow but since they have 4 lobes they require cracks that are more even and parallel to sit properly. Super tough construction as well.

I like the Z4's but not the three smallest sizes (0 - .2). The trigger action is too tight. I also feel like the construction of the Z4's isn't as burly as the X4's or C3's. I really dig the lobe geometry and material of the Z4's though. They get just a tiny bit smaller than X4's because the top of the lobes are flat and this is actually quite useful. Time will tell if this makes the smaller sizes weaker.

i consider micro cams to be smaller than the black totem. maybe people use totems or c4s from blue and have something else to supplement the rack with smaller gear (any of the cams you have named or slider nuts, etc). 

A lot of it depends on where you're climbing. C3s are fantastic, due to their very narrow head-width, when it comes to some placements. Aliens are the way to go at the Gunks, where horizontals are the primary placement. C3s in horizontals, while they will hold the fall, do not do well. X4s are nice but are not as "sticky" as aliens due to a different type of aluminum used in their lobes. They also don't tend to fit as well as aliens in pin scars (think typical Yosemite cracks).

I haven't played with the Z4s yet. Mastercams are nice but are not as sticky as aliens. The Ultralight Mastercams were a step backward for Metolius (due to getting rid of the thump loop) and remain the dumbest move I've ever seen a climbing gear manufacturer make.

Of course, just buy Totems and you're basically set for everything. Or at least that seems to be the generally accepted opinion on here (and Totems ARE a fantastic cam).

I think I've used most micro cams out there.

Currently I really like my Z4's. The head width is the same as C3's (which i also have). Given that, the 4 lobed cam should have more holding power. However, my black and blue totems are my favorite cams. If only they made a .1ish size.

I really never liked the X4's, sure they worked, but were really floppy when trying to smash into a tight placement. The lobe material was really slippery too. Z4's are a definite improvement. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/118600086/micro-cams
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/118637577/have-you-whipped-big-on-tiny-gear#ForumMessage-118637625
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116973010/new-bd-cams
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/118311681/the-small-cam-rankcomparison-page
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/117101072/new-black-diamond-z4
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/118260653/dmm-dragonfly-review-problemsflaw#ForumMessage-118289208

This should keep you busy until the quarantine is over.

ClimbingOn ....C3s in horizontals, while they will hold the fall, do not do well...

I think they’re great in horizontals. The rigid stem is awesome for slotting cams quickly behind constrictions and tight spots

There are choices besides Aliens?  

Love my c3s
Haven't tried the new z4 or dragonfly
Mastercam are good in the blue and up.  The smallest 2 are easy to get stuck and just aren't as confidence inspiring.
I disagree with the statement that the UL Mastercams where a step backwards.  Everyone I've heard say that doesn't actually own any they just dislike the idea of them.  In practice the stem is so fat I dont notice and tend to palm the stem anyway
X4s where my first small cams and I thought they were good until I tried other cams long enough to get used to the sizes.

TCUs man!

Tyler S wrote: C3's are my favorite, hands down! Biggest down side is that they only go up to roughly .3. Their narrow head width and asymmetric lobes make them a dream for tight/awkward placements, especially pin scars. They can also take a beating.

I feel the C3 luv...but alas they are no more. Dragonfly's are nice, but not worth the wait or the price. Never had any Z4/X4, so I can't say anything about them. 

For the VALUE, I am going with Metolius UL Master Cams.  I don't climb super hard shit, never have, but these work great for what I can climb.

I think if you ask people that have the Totem, they will tell you how good they are, but they are too expensive for me.

I have no micro cams, I need to get some micro cams. After reading every damn thread over the last few months of all these new micros coming out my conclusion is wild country are probably making the best micro cams out there at the moment, that being said its all super super fucking close in terms of head width and overall reception non too flexible non too stiff, the only outligher is the dragon fly being noticeably wider than every other micro (maybe better for sandstone?).
 So really you could pick just about any of the new cams that have come out in the last 6 months and be thrilled with them, but you would probably have a better time with the wild country cam.

This is of course in reference to every size bellow black totems, if you want a black totem sized cam the best cam is a black totem. 

Buck Rio wrote: For the VALUE, I am going with Metolius UL Master Cams.  I don't climb super hard shit, never have, but these work great for what I can climb.

Same.  I have a mix of UL Mastercams, aliens, one X4, and a black totem.  The soft lobes on the aliens stick better, but the mastercams cost less and are holding up better.  I'd get a set of UL Mastercams + one black totem, myself.

that guy named seb wrote: I have no micro cams, I need to get some micro cams. After reading every damn thread over the last few months of all these new micros coming out my conclusion is wild country are probably making the best micro cams out there at the moment, that being said its all super super fucking close in terms of head width and overall reception non too flexible non too stiff, the only outligher is the dragon fly being noticeably wider than every other micro (maybe better for sandstone?).
 So really you could pick just about any of the new cams that have come out in the last 6 months and be thrilled with them, but you would probably have a better time with the wild country cam.

This is of course in reference to every size bellow black totems, if you want a black totem sized cam the best cam is a black totem. 

I'm in the same boat as you Seb. Been delaying basically since the Dragonfly's were announced. Then the Z4s were announced. I've used C3's the most with friends and really liked them. Only other small cam I've used is an X4 like twice. Did not like it. Friend has a rack of UL mastercams, and yes, I know I want a thumb loop. I'm surprised I haven't dropped one of his cams yet...

I've read all the threads, and at this point, am so far in my own head. Will probably just go with Z4's mostly because I like my C4s and I do think there is something to the double loop on the sling. 

Did totem ever say if they were or weren't going to start making basics again?