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Andy Laakmann
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Apr 22, 2020
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Bend, OR
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,990
The daily Tension Board post.... and yes, I know there are no holds available anytime soon :)
What angle do you recommend for a tension board? Will be used by me (the old dude who still prefers slab) and my son (the young gun). My gut says split the difference and go 30 degrees. Height is not a problem.
Anyone?
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MorganH
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Apr 22, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2010
· Points: 197
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Andy Laakmann
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Apr 22, 2020
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Bend, OR
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,990
The old dude or the young gun? :) Realistic range is V3-V8....
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Jon Rhoderick
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Apr 22, 2020
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OR
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 966
I enjoy 30° more than 40°, more specific to harder climbing in Oregon. Still be plenty hard with any hold set especially the screw ons.
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Andrew Southworth
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Apr 22, 2020
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MN
· Joined Apr 2014
· Points: 289
Is 35 an option? I would do 35 or 40.
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Jon Rust
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Apr 22, 2020
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Chesterbrook, PA
· Joined Aug 2017
· Points: 0
You gotta do adjustable, unless you already have a lot of other climbing space. The added expense compared to the rest of the project would be pretty minimal, and the advantages are huge. I've spent a lot of time on a 40 degree, only a little time on an adjustable; however, it seems like the difference between 40 and 20 is HUGE.
So, let's say for the sake of argument that you can set it 10, 20, 30 and 40. That's a lot like having 4 different walls. You quadruple your climbing space.
For me, at my level, I would use 10 to warm up and ARC; 20 to work the smallest, fingery holds; at 40 I'm mostly limited to jugs; 30 would be a mix. You can also work projects by reducing the overhang ... and of course you and your son seem to be at different levels, so it makes perfect sense.
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ianv
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Apr 24, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 0
I put mine at 30. I prefer vertical to slightly overhanging technical routes, and this seems to be a good angle to train for my goals. The majority of the holds are quite positive, so both of you may outgrow 20 quickly. For me, there are only two holds (the small roundover and the big 6" sloper) that are difficult to grab at 30. I don't climb at a high level. If you decide to go with the tension board, Id recommend getting all 3 sets of holds and the LED setup.
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Tom Rangitsch
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Apr 24, 2020
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Lander, Wy
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 1,741
I would echo getting the LED lights. It really helps to sort out problems, as many of the holds are quite similar looking. I made mine somewhat adjustable using two tongue jacks (look up my pictures in the “what does your woodie look like” thread or I could PM you some pictures, it was fairly straightforward and only added about $100 to the cost of the whole thing). It can go from 35 to 45 degrees. I like 35 the best because I can use a lot of the less good holds. I also have liked being able to progress on problems by doing the same problem at a steeper angle. I project V8 on the board.
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Grant Kleeves
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Apr 29, 2020
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Ridgway, CO
· Joined Jan 2011
· Points: 60
If adjustable is an option I'd go that way for sure, I have chains supporting both corners and a small winch to adjust the angle, takes 2 minutes to change it and I feel like it's a much more useful tool that way, I boulder in the V8-9 range and if you have the full hold set there's plenty of holds that are pretty hard to use at all at my level at 40 degrees, it feels like you want the steep, big holds for building power and tension, but 20 degrees opens up a lot of problems on the small holds that work an entirely different skillset...
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