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Best Training Book or Program

Original Post
Samuel Jury · · Toccoa Falls, GA · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

I have stepped up my home training during all this COVID craziness and am looking for the best materials out there to help guide my training. I see a lot commenting on The Rock Climbers Training Manual but just wanted to see if there’s anything more recent or other resources I should consider. What about Training for Climbing by Eric Horst?

Also, if you have any personal home workouts you recommend then send It my way. Im mainly just working with a hangboard, pegboard, pull up bar, and resistance bands.

Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

I think RCTM is better for climbers more “seasoned” in training. Buy a proven plan from Power Company (or better yet do a training program with them). I see way too many people out there who don’t even understand how to properly Hangboard, let alone train. Good rule of thumb is that you train to avoid injury, not incur one. 

Joel May · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 20

The best online training program you could do is probably Lattice, but it’ll cost you a fair bit of money. They give you a full two day assessment and then tailor a training program to you based on your strengths and weaknesses.

Steve Pulver · · Williston, ND · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 460

RCTM is very good if you like things that are good, there are many options that are more recent if you like things that are recent. (I don't particularly recommend Lattice, but there seem to be many people that have got something out them, also not interested in getting into another online argument about how good they are. If someone wants to get details or argue about it  then message me).
Edit: RCTM is the one program that I can say with certainty worked for me, but I do fall into the category of 'more seasoned', and I think it is probably optimized for sport climbing. If you're not a sport climber it might be better to look into other programs.

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52

Im not a fan of "Training for Climbing."  It has its good moments but it seems to be very high level stuff.  In other words, you can get most of the information on the internet... but thats probably true for most training books.

EDIT:  TLDR Horst books.  If you're new to climbing just climb.  If you're an intermediate climber climb a lot and do some training.  If you're an expert climber then get another book?

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,415
Samuel Jury wrote: I see a lot commenting on The Rock Climbers Training Manual but just wanted to see if there’s anything more recent...

I don't think there's anything more recent.

I've read most of the "recent" books on training.  If you want something that gives you a solid framework from which you can modify and expand, definitely check out RCTM.  The rest have useful information, but it's often hard to figure out how to put it all together.

For general paradigm, 9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes by Dave MacLeod is excellent.

For a broad survey and additional non-climbing-wall exercises, Training for Climbing by Horst has a rather extensive additional exercises section.

For skill, Rock Climbing Technique by John Kettle is good.

For summiting big mountains and not worrying about top-line climbing skill, Training for the New Alpinism.

The biggest problem in training right now is an abundance of information and a proliferation of "bro science".  Step back, consider what you are really training FOR, and then target the skills and strengths you'll need to accomplish that goal.

EDIT: if you want super recent, follow Camp 4 Human Performance (@c4hp) on Instagram and read some of the papers he posts.  It'll be very interesting, but you'll have a harder time coming up with a "plan".  The information is really helpful after you've got a frameworked plan to work with.
Samuel Jury · · Toccoa Falls, GA · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Great! Thanks for all the info. Looks like I’m going to go with RCTM and then build from there. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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