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Julien Leclerc
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Apr 8, 2020
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Québec
· Joined Oct 2018
· Points: 0
if someone has any suggestion for the purshase of a rope. i want that rope to climb outside on multipitch and i want it durable and nice to climb and belay.my last one was a beal unicore booster 9.7mm. I want it easy to see the middle too. thanks
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Benjamin Chapman
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Apr 8, 2020
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Small Town, USA
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 19,611
Sterling VR9.4 bi-pattern
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S2k4 MattOates
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Apr 8, 2020
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Kremmling, CO
· Joined Sep 2015
· Points: 126
If you rappel alot and want it easy to see the middle, get a bi-pattern rope. 9.7 is a good compromise for durability and good handle. If you want to feel a difference in weight I think you gotta go down to atleast 9.4 ...? To me, Sterling ropes always have a good feel , like a tough rope, no soft spots, even on used ones. And they give you an extra 3 meters
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Craig Coco
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Apr 8, 2020
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Oklahoma City, OK
· Joined Aug 2017
· Points: 0
Mammut Eternity 9.8 or Infinity 9.5 dry, fantastic ropes but expensive
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Alex O'Neill
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Apr 9, 2020
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Boone, NC
· Joined Feb 2015
· Points: 0
I climb on the edelrid topaz pro dry 9.2, absolutely my favorite rope ever! Pretty light, handles like butter, and is as durable as most ~9.6 ropes!
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Graham Johnson
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Apr 9, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 0
My edelrid boa eco has been awesome for a few years now. Outlasted any Beal, sterling or other brand I’ve had.
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Buck Rio
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Apr 9, 2020
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MN
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 16
Sterling Ion R 9.4mm Bi-color
If you don't like the price on this one, The Sterling Pro 10.1mm feels and behaves more like a 9.5mm rope and is much less expensive.
In Canada, you may want to look at European manufactured rope if you are price sensitive at all. Roca is making some nice ropes, as is Tendon.
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I F
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Apr 9, 2020
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Megalopolis Adjacent
· Joined Mar 2017
· Points: 4,368
Interesting Graham, I've had 2 edelrid Boa ecos and I've found that they were considerably less durable than other ropes. I do put them through the ringer and climb on them often but I've noticed the sheath fuzzing up disturbingly quickly.
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Buck Rio
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Apr 9, 2020
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MN
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 16
Ian F wrote: Interesting Graham, I've had 2 edelrid Boa ecos and I've found that they were considerably less durable than other ropes. I do put them through the ringer and climb on them often but I've noticed the sheath fuzzing up disturbingly quickly. We climbed one week at RRG on an Edelrid and it was already fuzzed up and looked beat. I would never own another. Mammut and Sterling for me, please.
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Welcome To The Zoo
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Apr 9, 2020
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UMass
· Joined Sep 2017
· Points: 1,805
The TC pro rope thing from Edelrid is pretty sweet, bi patten and I've had no complaints
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Bryar T
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Apr 9, 2020
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Bluffdale
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 150
If you liked your Booster, you might like the Edelweis Energy 9.5 bi-pattern. Edelweiss and Beal are sister companies and have similar unicore tech. The Energy 9.5 is lighter than the Booster 9.7 and I've found Edelweiss to last a little longer outside, even if it starts out stiffer. I've used it on big walls and multipitches in Zion, Yosemite, and all over the Wasatch.
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Matt Simon
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Apr 9, 2020
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Black Rock City
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 203
Mammut infinity bipattern (9.5mm)
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petzl logic
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Apr 9, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 730
Buck Rio wrote: In Canada, you may want to look at European manufactured rope if you are price sensitive at all. Roca is making some nice ropes, as is Tendon. I found the tendon ropes made for BD nice but I dont think they were especially durable. The price is usually right though.
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Graham Johnson
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Apr 9, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 0
Interesting to hear other's experiences with the Boa Eco. Wonder if it has something to do with every rope being a little different because they use leftover fibers from the production of other ropes? Grasping at straws here - I've thrashed mine and it is only a little fuzzy. My Sterling Marathon barely lasted a year.
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Buck Rio
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Apr 10, 2020
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MN
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 16
Graham Johnson wrote: Interesting to hear other's experiences with the Boa Eco. Wonder if it has something to do with every rope being a little different because they use leftover fibers from the production of other ropes? Grasping at straws here - I've thrashed mine and it is only a little fuzzy. My Sterling Marathon barely lasted a year. I have a 25+ year old Marathon that just won't die. I haven't climbed on it in a long time, obviously, but it hardly shows any wear.
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I F
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Apr 10, 2020
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Megalopolis Adjacent
· Joined Mar 2017
· Points: 4,368
I got a Sterling velocity as a gift shortly before quarantine, still haven't had a chance to use it. I'm crossing my fingers it lasts longer than the Edelrid boa ecos and that I'm not just a terrible rope owner.
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Buck Rio
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Apr 10, 2020
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MN
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 16
It has been my experience for 25+ years of climbing, that if you use a rope tarp, or flake your rope off of the ground, it will last MUCH longer than if you just throw it in the dirt.
Your biners will look nice longer as well, as will all of the fixed anchors you lower off.
I have owned a bunch of ropes, and given some away that I simply hated, but Sterling and Mammut have never let me down as far as handling or longevity. It may be partly because I treat them nice and store them properly. I rarely look at the price tag...I just get the rope I want.
I think pricewise, Tendon ropes and Roca ropes outperform some of the more popular brands in the US, and can be found occasionally at very nice prices.
One of my partners has a Tendon that I really liked, 9.7mm that was really light and flowed through draws well, nice sport rope.
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Julien Leclerc
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Apr 17, 2020
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Québec
· Joined Oct 2018
· Points: 0
Thanks everyone to take time answer me but finally I've decided to take the edelrid Tommy Caldwell because it look to be a good rope and i got a very good deal on it too ! Someone has it too ?
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Russ B
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Apr 17, 2020
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Jun 2011
· Points: 42
Ian F wrote: Interesting Graham, I've had 2 edelrid Boa ecos and I've found that they were considerably less durable than other ropes. I do put them through the ringer and climb on them often but I've noticed the sheath fuzzing up disturbingly quickly. Eco Boas are by far the least durable ropes I've ever owned and used. I've seen them trashed in a single trip.
Also bi-pattern ropes are nice, but they cost more and it severely limits the options you have. A better solution is to just buy a light colored rope, and remark it as it fades.
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Gunkiemike
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Apr 18, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,687
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Malcolm Daly
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Apr 18, 2020
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Hailey, ID
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 380
Be very careful in making the assumption that bi-pattern ropes make it easy to spot a transition. A bi-pattern rope does not change any colors at the mid point; just the pattern of the weave changes. In many bi-pattern ropes it's almost impossible to see the transition zone from twenty feet; if the light is good. Petzl and Beal Unicore both agree and do not offer the bi-pattern option. If spotting the middle mark is your goal I suggest that you buy a light color rope and re-do the middle mark every few months. Or, better yet, buy a light color bi-pattern rope AND mark the middle.
Climb safe, Mal
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