Crimper Test Pieces

Hey Y'all,

Daydreaming during these times and focusing on weaknesses - CRIMPERS!  Let's start a thread with all the best crimp test pieces in SoCal.  I'm looking for routes/boulders in the 5.10 - 5.12 range and corresponding boulder grades but open to all suggestions.

Ready, set, go!

Don’t be a wimp just crimp.

5.12

The pirate
Caliente
Untickable
Anything Darrell hensel at suicide

5.11
ValhallaDisco jesusMoondance

5.10
Use your feet

The number one crimper test piece boulder problem in socal is Power Glide V6 at Stoney Point.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B-ur1OVj-u5/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Is 5.10 - 5.12 really in the “test piece” category?

Josh Lipko wrote: Is 5.10 - 5.12 really in the “test piece” category?

5.12 trad can get pretty real.

Josh: Snap on Demand (if the bolts have been updated), Puss 'n Boots. Both "only" .11's, but mental, if not physical challenges. Especially the first. Protected, sort of, by bolts, but mos def no sport climb. And you get to warm up on Loose Lady...   

A good Josh crimpfest is Rap Bolters are Weak, an old Paul Borne route. And you get to warm up on Clean and Jerk.

Edit: Bikini Whale has a few crimps on it.

Josh Lipko wrote: Is 5.10 - 5.12 really in the “test piece” category?

You can have a testpiece at any grade. I consider "testpieces" to be routes that are emblematic for a particular style and grade. Do well on a 5.10 crimp route (pass the test), proceed to a 5.11 route of a similar style, and so on.

Also, I can tell you from lots of personal experience that being able to climb 5.13 in one style does not mean you won't be tested on a 5.10 of a different style—a tired, oft-repeated cliché generally used to describe wide cracks in Yosemite, but true nonetheless. Thus, when I visit a new area, I make sure to get on the testpieces of easier grades before I try something near my limit. This practice has probably saved my life more than I realize.

Not long after I moved west, I ran into Bachar at Josh. I asked him how the ratings were there. He asked me how hard I climbed. He had some sage advice.

Start at a grade well below your max, say 5.8, and do a bunch of them of all different types. When you're comfy then move up a grade and do the same thing. Work each grade horizontally. Then he walked off and soloed Spider Line.  

Nice one, Bob. John was beautiful to watch. He was a dancer of rock. And he was so totally solid it was never worrisome to watch. 

Flabob (v6) at rubidoux and Ishi (12d) at suicide are arguably some of the thinnest routes in SoCal.

The commander at el cajon mountain. 450' of almost entirely crimps, ranging from 5.10-5.12.
Pitches 3 & 5 are especially good & crimpy, gently overhanging with 1/2 pad incuts.
Some "slimpers" on P5 as well.

Here is a crimp fest I just did a few weeks ago before all hit the fan.   5.11, steep and crimps the whole way.  I won’t divulge the location here but if you DM me I’ll fill you in.  

Since I mostly boulder these days, here are some classic crimp problems in Jtree:

5.10-5.11

Foot Fetish
Slashface
Boxer Problem

5.11-5.12

Peabrain
Slabmaster 
LHMFP
Undertow
​
5.12+

JBMFP
Alexandria
Nicole Overhang
Iron Meteorite
Tips Be Gone
All Washed Up
Pumping Monzonite
Planet X
Chili Sauce

Mr. Gumby the White, sir,

Where is this 5.11 "ValhallaDisco jesusMoondance" of which you speak???

All three are good, classics at their grades.

Thanks Y’all. This is a solid list to start... hope to see everyone out there soon enough. 

Us locked out gym rats are playing @ Santee & Magnolia San Diego & are finding some new eliminates the new shoe technology & super cold temps are allowing if you want to crimp down. Foream endurance getting bad but feet getting strong...I remember transitioning to gyms when the 1987 Vertical World opened by the railroad tracks. Can we fly Johnny Dawes out for some low angle granite during the lockdown?

Josh Lipko wrote: Is 5.10 - 5.12 really in the “test piece” category?

Yeah why do they call them tests in elementary schools? That shits like super easy.

At 5.10, Solid Gold in JT is a must do for the aspiring crimp lord. Swing Dance (12+/13- or v7) at Tramway is a nice crimping line as well. The 5.11 sport climbs at the Oyster Bar in JT are also rad crimp climbs. 

Darrell Hensel wrote: Mr. Gumby the White, sir,

Where is this 5.11 "ValhallaDisco jesusMoondance" of which you speak???

All three are good, classics at their grades.

Lol. Whoops a formatting error!

Disco Jesus 
Valhalla
Moondance

Edit: for Some bob Gaines love too, since his routes are bad ass too:
The heathen
Field of dreams (slabby but has some rad crimps)

Jtree:
some like it hot 5.12
Seizure 5.12+
Satanic mechanic 5.12

Idyllwild:
The pirate 5.12+
Caliente 5.12
Crucifixion 5.11+
Constellation 5.12