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Perfect rock climbing genetics, is it all in your hands?

Original Post
Vladimir Mirenenko · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0

So i've always wondered why i'm extremely good at climbing since young age, started at 5 now 26 at 5'11. I was that good at climbing that i could become professional with ease, but it was just for hobby. And i was always wondering why. And i think its all about having tiny hands, and having an ectomorph base physique.

1. Short fingers: strong crimp strength, more leverage.
2. Tiny fingers: More room on smaller crimps, 2vs3 finger pocket is a huge advantage.
3. Small hands/tiny fingers also compensate by giving you a stronger wrist than average.

Look at my length of the fingers and the size compared to a tea spoon, remember i'm 5'11 166lbs. Now compare your finger length/size to a teaspoon

W K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 167

I find that if you warm up well enough, you can fit your fingers in any pocket​​​​

Vladimir Mirenenko · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0
caughtinside wrote:

Started at 5 huh? 

Yes, i was climbing trees like almost every single day from 5 to like 11 years, we were living at a place where a fruit tree farm used to be. So we had alot of fruit trees around our house.

Joel May · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 20

Is this Ondra’s burner account?

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Vladimir Mirenenko wrote: 

Look at my length of the fingers and the size compared to a tea spoon, remember i'm 5'11 166lbs. 

Please tell me that your  suntan is natural, as you do not have a combover.

J D · · SC · Joined May 2017 · Points: 25

3/10

Mitch Moore · · Golden, CO / SLC, UT · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0
I think that Vlad made this account for the sole purpose of making this post
McHull · · Catoctin Mt · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 260

huh?
size really does matter...

Carolina · · Front Range NC · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 20
Robert Rowsam · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 230

My finger to spoon ratio is much better then yours. I'm 6' 11" and 274 lbs. I can climb 5.14 finger cracks easily and float up the local test pieces, but I turned down sponsorships because climbing is just something I do a couple time a month for exercise. I also feel I truly have an unfair advantage over the regular handed people

curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274
Robert Rowsam wrote: My finger to spoon ratio is much better then yours. I'm 6' 11" and 274 lbs. I can climb 5.14 finger cracks easily and float up the local test pieces, but I turned down sponsorships because climbing is just something I do a couple time a month for exercise. I also feel I truly have an unfair advantage over the regular handed people

little off topic, but im in the market for some spoons... what do you want for that concave beauty??

Robert Rowsam · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 230
abandon moderation wrote:

He is a chosen one. His index finger is longer than his ring finger.

The pinky finger looks useless though, so I dunno this might be a hoax.

The strength from my pinky transfered into my wrist. Also, as the OP said, having short fingers gives me tremendous crimp strength because of the extra leverage

Robert Rowsam · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 230
curt86iroc wrote:

little off topic, but im in the market for some spoons... what do you want for that concave beauty??

That is a UIAA and CE certified finger ratio spoon. Yates only made a small batch back in 2001, so it's kinda priceless

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 21
Vladimir Mirenenko wrote: So i've always wondered why i'm extremely good at climbing since young age, started at 5 now 26 at 5'11. I was that good at climbing that i could become professional with ease, but it was just for hobby. And i was always wondering why. And i think its all about having tiny hands, and having an ectomorph base physique.

1. Short fingers: strong crimp strength, more leverage.
2. Tiny fingers: More room on smaller crimps, 2vs3 finger pocket is a huge advantage.
3. Small hands/tiny fingers also compensate by giving you a stronger wrist than average.

Look at my length of the fingers and the size compared to a tea spoon, remember i'm 5'11 166lbs. Now compare your finger length/size to a teaspoon

Nice manicure - clearly the only things you climb are steps and social ladders. And I suspect you take the elevator whenever you can.

abe r · · Boise, ID · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 195
Foy O wrote: This is a weird post

Ya little bit of a 3rd Reich thing going on here.

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52
Vladimir Mirenenko wrote: So i've always wondered why i'm extremely good at climbing since young age, started at 5 now 26 at 5'11. I was that good at climbing that i could become professional with ease, but it was just for hobby. And i was always wondering why. And i think its all about having tiny hands, and having an ectomorph base physique.

1. Short fingers: strong crimp strength, more leverage.
2. Tiny fingers: More room on smaller crimps, 2vs3 finger pocket is a huge advantage.
3. Small hands/tiny fingers also compensate by giving you a stronger wrist than average.

Look at my length of the fingers and the size compared to a tea spoon, remember i'm 5'11 166lbs. Now compare your finger length/size to a teaspoon

You clearly don't crack climb

Eric Seiler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 251
Bill Czajkowski wrote:

Nice manicure - clearly the only things you climb are steps and social ladders. And I suspect you take the elevator whenever you can.

Brian 1 · · Vista / Oside · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

weirdest spray so far.
tiny hands, uh sure kewl.

Colonel Sandbag · · Boston, MA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 76

I think he's just tryina signal he's related to Trump

Nick C · · NH · Joined May 2017 · Points: 1,436

I am more genetically gifted than you are. My hands can crimp the smallest edges. I'm also 5'14" and 80lbs with a +10 ape index. Good thing I found climbing at age 3 because I'm not suited to much else
TJ Brannen · · Denver · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 75

think you might be on to something OP. I currently am projecting La Dura Dura and recently put up my first V16/17/18 and my hands are clearly superior. Used my computer as a backlight so y’all can witness the master hand.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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