DIY Hangboard Design

I am an apartment dweller and thus no space for a home wall and no access to large power tools, just a drill and a dremel. What I do have right now (like many people) is a lot of free time. I have always just climbed as training, and that has been enough for me to reach 13-, but climbing isn't really a good option right now. Seems like a good time to start hangboarding. Most hangboards are a month plus back order, or not even shipping because of closures, plus like I said, free time. I decided it would be fun to try to design my own that would not require any more power tools than I already have. Here is what I came up with, since I haven't done much hangboarding, I am interested in getting some feedback on if this design is actually useful.

So the basic shape is just 4 offset 1x3s held together with wood glue and screws. I'll use a hand plane to bring the edges to the right size. Mounting it either on the end posts of a pull up bar or hang it like a flash board. In either case using the 1 inch drilled holes. 

Some questions:

• Is two feet the right length for a hang board?
• Do I need pockets for a complete training routine?
• Accessing different edges requires flipping and turning the board, will this break the flow of a routine? Are there certain pairs of edges that it would be good to group for switching back and forth between?
• Poplar seems like the most common wood used for hangboards, should I definitely go with it?
• The 8mm and 10mm rails only have 3/4 inch clearance above them, this is plenty for fingers in an open hand crimp, but not a full crimp.
• I have never used a flash board, does a board hanging like this work for every day use?
• Anything else I didn't think of?

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Alex R wrote:I have always just climbed as training, and that has been enough for me to reach 13-

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Mounting it either on the end posts of a pull up bar or hang it like a flash board. 

Hanging it will rotate too much. You need the posts. 

In either case using the 1 inch drilled holes.

Some questions:

• Is two feet the right length for a hang board?

18-20” is fine, you’ll be constrained by your pull-up bar. Two feet is plenty comfortable. 

• Do I need pockets for a complete training routine?

No. Just use fewer fingers. 

• Accessing different edges requires flipping and turning the board, will this break the flow of a routine? Are there certain pairs of edges that it would be good to group for switching back and forth between?

No, you’ll have plenty of time if you’re resting properly. A simpler solution is just two edges. Warmup jug and 20mm. 

• Poplar seems like the most common wood used for hangboards, should I definitely go with it?

I’m not a woodworker but trust the experts. 

• The 8mm and 10mm rails only have 3/4 inch clearance above them, this is plenty for fingers in an open hand crimp, but not a full crimp.

Statement. 

• I have never used a flash board, does a board hanging like this work for every day use?

Not great. Hard mount is best. 

• Anything else I didn't think of?

Get the Crimped App and follow their protocols. 

Don't have a ton of hang board experience, but I think you'd be happier with a bigger range of edge sizes. Maybe make a 25 instead of 12 and 6 instead of 9. That would give almost 20mm range instead of 10.

Cant think of any commercial board makers that thought so many sizes were necessary between 18 and 8mm.