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Hangboard and Pinch Block Training Question

Original Post
Schyluer Jarman · · Vineyard, UT · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Do you train these on the same day, or operate days? As im pretty sure that they strengthen different parts of your tendons although i admit i dont know a lot about what im talking about. Thanks Gurus. 

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

It is pretty standard to train multiple different grips (crimp, 2 finger pocket, etc) in the same session. Treat the pinch block as just another hangboard grip.

Schyluer Jarman · · Vineyard, UT · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0
JCM wrote: It is pretty standard to train multiple different grips (crimp, 2 finger pocket, etc) in the same session. Treat the pinch block as just another hangboard grip.

Thanks a bunch JCM. I feel a lot better now.

Aidan Mickleburgh · · Arlington VA · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 4,531

Personally, I consider pinch, open hand, pocket, and crimp training to all be distinct. Does that mean you should do them all in the same day? NO. Even if they don't work the same exact pulleys and tendons using the exact same mechanics, you can still overwork the region. I'd say never train pockets or open hand the same day. Beyond that, go nuts but rest

Neil Benson · · Foxborough, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 315
https://rockandice.com/rock-climbing-training/training-beta-mark-and-mike-andersons-guide-to-hangboard-training/

Scroll down to the "Grip Selection" heading, might give you some good ideas to mix and match hold types.

To answer your original question though, yes, it's totally fine to train the pinch grip and more conventional hangboard grips (edges, crimps, etc) in the same session.
Schyluer Jarman · · Vineyard, UT · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0
Neil Benson wrote: https://rockandice.com/rock-climbing-training/training-beta-mark-and-mike-andersons-guide-to-hangboard-training/

Scroll down to the "Grip Selection" heading, might give you some good ideas to mix and match hold types.

To answer your original question though, yes, it's totally fine to train the pinch grip and more conventional hangboard grips (edges, crimps, etc) in the same session.

Thanks for response Aidan and Neil. So I watch this guy quite a lot. Is pinch safer to do than hang board? Is that why this guy could do it 30 days in a row? youtu.be/oOODFsaBWpg

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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