What is your favorite harness for route development?

I've tried many harnesses over the years, just about everything Arc'teryx makes, lots of BD, Petzl, Metolius, and some others. Hoping to find something that doesn't kill the back/legs after a big day of bolting/cleaning. Would be nice to use for bigwall and longer trad days too.

Seems to be some obvious options out there, Cadillac, Big Gun, Waldo, etc. They all seem a bit dated, heavy/clunky/sweaty designs have been the same for years. Tried and true? Or is there anything a little lighter and more versatile that can provide similar support and comfort?

I’ve started using the Metlious big wall harness while going ground up on walls and so far am very happy with it!

I have the solution guide from BD and find it comfortable for several hours of hanging, bolting and cleaning. One unfortunate note is that the tie in points tend to wear quickly with the movement of jugging/shifting, but overall the comfort and amount of gear loops have made it a solid option for bolting.  

Metolius Waldo is legit. If you have trouble with that, you may need to make a seat for yourself.

I have a previous model of the Deluxe and Waldo, pre Speed Buckle, and just received a replacement Deluxe becasue Metolius customer service is amazing, and... the material used on the new Deluxe has been updated and it feels lighter, is more packable, and is more comfortable. I emailed their rep and he confirmed that both the Deluxe and Waldo had seen the same fabric update. If it is equal, the new Speed Buckle Waldo would be super comfortable. I've been on route for 10+ hours in a day with just two 10 minute breaks, 25+ lbs on me, and it was fine, in the previous model. As you can tell, I'd recommend it.

Kemper Brightman wrote: I have the solution guide from BD and find it comfortable for several hours of hanging, bolting and cleaning. One unfortunate note is that the tie in points tend to wear quickly with the movement of jugging/shifting, but overall the comfort and amount of gear loops have made it a solid option for bolting.  

i am surprised you find the gear loops adequate.  i almost love the guide harness, the material is great, fits well, comfortable.  the gear loops completely suck though.  they are small and "shallow".  if you rack gate-in (i would rack gate out but my wrists and shoulders hate it), the biners sit poorly and have a tendency to jump off the harness when you are chimneying or down-scrambling.  i find it ironic they call this a guide harness, i am not a harness racker and i still think the gear loops are too small.

if they made the gear loops bigger and deeper, got rid of that weird little gear loop in the back, and had a good simple haul loop on the back this harness would be perfect.

A cheap one. I destroy them pretty rapidly but that is more to do with muddy gritty cleaning work than simply bolting. I really like having a chest harness, bosun seat and adjustable Daisy for anything overhung. 

For route development, I use all of my most best to shit stuff.  It’s going to get dirty, and destroyed much faster than cragging..

I like the petzl caldris. Wide back for lumbar support and wide leg loops to prevent your legs going dead. Getting a petzl podium though is probably the best addition to any harness to extend your scrubbing career. Arborist harness are also made for all day working and are fully functional for carrying  heavy tools.. 

Great beta everyone, much appreciated!

I liked the fit and durability of BD Solution Guide but also hate the tiny gear loops. I think Arc'teryx makes the best gear loops by far. Metolius harness seem to take abuse very well, but the ones I've owned aren't very comfortable. Waldo seems like a beast, but I like to support Metolius so I'll probably go that route.

Thanks again!

I praise C’thulu every time I pull out my Big Gun to develop. On big days I use every loop and grin with glee at all the feeling and blood flow I have in my legs. Not something I would choose to trad climb in, but for developing, I can’t imagine anything better.

ROCKMAN2 wrote: Great beta everyone, much appreciated!

I liked the fit and durability of BD Solution Guide but also hate the tiny gear loops. I think Arc'teryx makes the best gear loops by far. Metolius harness seem to take abuse very well, but the ones I've owned aren't very comfortable. Waldo seems like a beast, but I like to support Metolius so I'll probably go that route.

Thanks again!

While the Waldo is thick and comfy, I could redpoint my max grade in it without thinking about it, it's not cumbersome. Most big wall climbers are climbing hard, and it's not holding them back. I've brought it with me cragging on weekends when I'm working too, and it has never been a problem. I'm usually even grateful to have it when my buddies are dogging on me. I otherwise wouldnt bring it on a normal day though just becasue it is pretty bulky in the pack.

And the new SB line is so comfortable