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Flexibility as it pertains to climbing

Original Post
Ben Molloy · · Keene, NY · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Given the state of the world, and being that I am stuck inside training, I wanted to see what people do for flexibility exercises, and how often. Beyond hip flexibility, what do you all think would be the most beneficial areas to increase flexibility, and what stretches or exercises do you use? I’ve never stretched much and I am now seeing the hinderance it’s become as I push into the upper 5.12 and low 5.13 range, so what better time to stretch than during a pandemic.

Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493
Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

Start learnin' some yoga my dude.

Mark Frumkin · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 52

There is a real good book by Bob Anderson "Stretching"
It's a good book for someone that has not come out of a sport that requires you to stretch.

Katherine Kinnison · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

Yoga is a great way to gain flexibility and mobility! Tons of videos on youtube... Yoga With Adriene is great. Focusing on hamstring and hip flexibilities are really helpful for climbing (heel hooking, high feet, stemming). Touching your toes and wide legged forward folds are great for this, along with lunges and "butterfly" legs. Remember to not only shoot for flexibility, but mobility as well. Look for both active and passive stretches, having power through deep ranges of motion is just as important as having a deep range of motion.

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260

I would suggest wrist flexor/extensors, as well as shoulder mobility for injury prevention. I've had issues with medial epicondilitis as have many other climbers, and I've found hat including mobility routing has helped a lot with that. Similar for shoulders & injury prevention....

Gumby boy king · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 547

Thoracic Extension and Rotation is extremely important for healthy shoulders. For extension, I put a foam roller right on the bottom or my shoulder blades (don't go and lower down or your back or you will fuck yourself) and then feet on a wall, knees at 90 degrees, engage your core and "scoop your pelvis", so imagine extending your lumbar spine, then arms over your head and cross your hands behind your head and the goal is to get the back of your head to the ground while keeping proper form. Breathing is very important so big inhales and slowly exhale. when this becomes easy you can start to add weight to your hands.

Thoracic rotation, just google it.

Idaho Bob · · McCall, ID · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 757

Now that I'm "training" inside, I'm doing my stretching routine everyday.  26 stretches, a routine developed from recommendations for climbers on various websites plus my yoga instructors input.  Includes some yoga poses for balance and 3 exercises with light weights for rotator cuff.  Takes about 45 minutes.

Sue M · · Johns Creek, GA · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 88

Doyogawithme.com

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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