Favorite jackets for ice climbing?

Looking for a shell for ice, looking for input!

They make a few different models, but Eddie Bauer Sandstone is my choice. Waterproof, breathable, stretchy, and easy to fit over other layers. I got one on sale for $60 and it has held up very well over the past 3 years or so.

Check out the ArcTeryx Sigma Anorak.  Nearly perfect shell for ice and quite a bit lower on the price range for ArcTeryx.

​https://arcteryx.com/us/en/shop/mens/sigma-sl-anorak​​​

I think it depends on what you're climbing.  If it's a drippy mess, I like a hardshell, if it's a cold day with little or no liquid water about, then I prefer a softshell. Right now I have Rab Myriad hardshell (meh) and a Rab Torque softshell (I like it). 

As others are saying, 80% of the time its more confortable to use a softshell with a hood and keep the hardshell (for bad weather, or dripping water) and the puffy (for belay) in the backpack.
Most will work as long as they have some stretch in them; I personally use one from La Sportiva but all major brands have options.

Shell Jackets
1. Arc'teryx Alpha Comp - Hybrid softshell/hardshell.
2. Arc'teryx Alpha FL - Gore Pro hardshell.
3. Arc'teryx Gamma LT Hoody - Full softshell.

Active Insulation
1. Patagonia Nano-Air Hoody - I just wish the hood fit over the helmet vs. under the helmet.
2. Arc'teryx Proton LT Hoody - Ticks all the boxes, but the Nano-Air fits me better.

Arc'teryx Gamma MX (hooded version) is my go-to ice climbing jacket. I see a lot of others using it as well.

I have the older marmot rom, amazing except the sleeves are just a hair short for my +3" ape index, but that's not the jacket's fault. The new fabrics in the current version look to be more stout and breathable, and it's usually pretty cheap for the quality. Going 6 years strong.

Rab Kinetic Plus Jacket

I'm partial to Arc'teryx and use the Alph SV for cold days and the Alpha FL for milder days with both I use an OP Asecendent and a single wool baselayer. You don't need that much stretch so long as the jacket fits right, and you don't need that much warmth when actually climbing, only waiting and belay. 

For an active shell, I think the Sigma SL Anorak is hard to beat for mostly dry conditions.  The discontinued Procline Comp Hoody is pretty much ideal for ice and alpine climbing in wet conditions (hard shell front and top, soft-shell back and sides).  

It looks like Arcteryx has introduced a new Alpha SL Anorak, which looks like it will be great for ice climbing.  The Alpha FL & Sigma SL disappeared from the website at the same time that the Alpha SL Anorak was added.  My hope is that Arc’teryx is just trying to drawdown the inventory of these models before introducing revised versions.  

Probably the most interesting new feature of the Alpha SL Anorak is the RECCO reflector.  It will be interesting to see if Arcteryx adds RECCO reflectors to all of their winter climbing jackets.  

Helly Hansen Vanir (I think that was the name) for when you need a really bomber shell. Put zips for dumping heat, excellent hood for over a helmet. Super durable. I had two, one for mountain activities and one I wore for work as a commercial fisherman. It lasted one year fishing, which is remarkable considering the abuse it gets.

For a lightweight shell, Patagonia Houdini. keeps wind and spindrift are bay

Karl Henize wrote:

For an active shell, I think the Sigma SL anorak is hard to beat for mostly dry conditions.  The discontinued Procline Comp Hoody is pretty much ideal for ice and alpine climbing in wet conditions (goretex front and sides, soft-shell back).  

YES! I really wish more brands would do hybrid construction shells, it's a niche that is quite overlooked as most consumers tend to shy away from 'water-resistant' in favor of 'waterproof', whereas 95% of the times waterproof sleeves, front and hood is all you need. 

Ok since this is an ice jacket thread, I am curious how many like waist/hand pockets in their jackets?  I frickin despise them in any climbing focused jacket as wasted weight, space, and streamlining, and ultimately added cost that I don’t want/need.  
I just want a chest pocket and and arm pocket. Too many otherwise good jackets are degraded with unnecessary hand pockets that I wind up altering/removing (it annoys me that much that I’ll pay extra to have them removed).
End of rant

But name some good winter worthy jackets (not ultralight) with no pockets in the lower torso

Mark Pilate wrote:

Ok since this is an ice jacket thread, I am curious how many like waist/hand pockets in their jackets?  I frickin despise them in any climbing focused jacket as wasted weight, space, and streamlining, and ultimately added cost that I don’t want/need.  
I just want a chest pocket and and arm pocket. Too many otherwise good jackets are degraded with unnecessary hand pockets that I wind up altering/removing (it annoys me that much that I’ll pay extra to have them removed).
End of rant

But name some good winter worthy jackets (not ultralight) with no pockets in the lower torso

Helly Hansen, I think it is called Vanir

Mark Pilate wrote:

But name some good winter worthy jackets (not ultralight) with no pockets in the lower torso

It is pretty common for climbing specific jackets to not have these pockets.  Many of the jackets already mentioned in this thread do not have low hand pockets.  

Honestly I don't know of any climbing/alpine specific jackets that have lower torso hand pockets.

hmmmm... i got a marker ski jacket from stp for $40 or so a few years back, fully intent on trashing it on ice.  it's held up surprisingly well and has become my go to in most winter adventures.  the inside of my (and really anybody's) jacket is one huge pocket, holding everything from mittens to a small thermos when the occasion calls for it.  

Victor Machtel wrote:

YES! I really wish more brands would do hybrid construction shells, it's a niche that is quite overlooked as most consumers tend to shy away from 'water-resistant' in favor of 'waterproof', whereas 95% of the times waterproof sleeves, front and hood is all you need. 

I agree.  I hope hybrid shells like the Procline Comp Hoody make a come back (with better marketing).  I believe the Procline Comp Hoody was marketed very specifically for ski mountaineering, when really it was better than a full hard shell for a much broader range of activities.  

Once we can figure out a way to get dog walkers to buy them, hopefully they will stick...

old5ten wrote:

the inside of my (and really anybody's) jacket is one huge pocket, holding everything from mittens to a small thermos when the occasion calls for it.  

With harness on, I don’t use any pockets in my active shell.  My climbing gloves are stuffed between my baselayer and second layer.  Everything else goes into my belay parka.  

Karl Henize wrote:

Probably the most interesting new feature of the Alpha SL Anorak is the RECCO reflector.  It will be interesting to see if Arcteryx adds RECCO reflectors to all of their winter climbing jackets.  

Why is a RECCO reflector of interest?  Is a RECCO search device common anywhere outside of major ski areas?   Does it have any function outside of body recovery?    

RECCO seems more like a marketing ploy than anything actually useful.