Best beginner hangboard

Hey all,
I was just wondering your recommendations for a beginners hangboard (v6 redpoint in the gym)? Im also looking to train for slopers.
Thanks!

Metolius wood grips has great sizes for beginners, and the bottom row will keep you pushing well  into the v9-10 range.

If you’ve got some time right now (har har), rock and ice just put out a pretty good video review of about a dozen different hangboreds. 

Luke,

Best board is what you will use. I think that just having something with a 20&15 mm edge will get you far. The real crux is getting a hang board right now. Check power company Climbing’s quarantine training for resources and help structuring(it’s free). Alternatively just reinforce a door jam and you’re G2G

Trango Rock Prodigy is very good if you do not mind the price and difficulty mounting. Plenty of options hold wise 

Based on another recent thread, I bought a Blank Slate Climbing door jamb hangboard mount. It solves the installation problem. Their T-nut pattern board seems like an awesome idea too.

The blank slate makes installation easy but over time it will mark your door jamb and remove paint. 

Any thoughts on the beastmaker 1000?

Luke K wrote: Any thoughts on the beastmaker 1000?

It’s great. Any wood board from tension, beastmaker, or metolius is pretty good.

Peter Beal wrote: https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/prime-rib.html looks pretty good to me

Would you say this one has a good Craigslist resale value, Peter? ;)

Joel M wrote:

Would you say this one has a good Craigslist resale value, Peter? ;)

Actually at 50 bucks new, I think you'll get a pretty good return :) and it looks like a board that will actually get used!

BTW conventional wisdom seems to be trending in the direction toward not training slopers on the hangboard. Open hand strength, particularly in the first pad, seems to be a more useful adaptation to train on the hangboard that translates well to sloper strength. The rest of the difficulty in sloper climbing is body positioning and total body strength.

Jon Frisby wrote: BTW conventional wisdom seems to be trending in the direction toward not training slopers on the hangboard. Open hand strength, particularly in the first pad, seems to be a more useful adaptation to train on the hangboard that translates well to sloper strength. The rest of the difficulty in sloper climbing is body positioning and total body strength.

Can’t argue for/against the usefulness of training sloppers on the hangboard, but personnally I like to go slopper on my first set after warm-up. It find it complements the warm-up nicely and much more gently than the 1’’ crimp. 

Just as, perhaps more important, is the training program you will follow.  For example, there is a very interesting difference between the Metolius and Rock Prodigy suggested programs.  Probably lots more on the web.  You can use any program on any of the boards, just start slow to avoid injury.