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Best edging shoe

Original Post
Henten Anders · · Black Hills of South Dakota · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 5

What is the best edging shoe? I have been looking at the La Spotiva Miura VS and Katana lace. As well as the Unparallel NewTro lace/vcs, and the Up Lace.

P.S I am 6ft 6in and 250lbs.

Danny Poceta · · Canmore · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 98

scarpa. boostic.

EDIT! You're going to get a lot of responses with everyone's personal favorite, but the actual difference in edging power between good stiff shoes (boostic, miura, katana, TC, blanco, etc.) will be negligible. Get what fits.

Alan Zhan · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 156

I've always been partial to the five ten line of anasazi blanco/verde/pink. I've been pretty satisfied with the performance of my pinks and blancos at smith rock.

Recently bought a pair of Acopa Legends and I have found that they are quite good at edging as well, though fairly insensitive through the break in period.

Gumby boy king · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 547

Muira VS 2-2.5 sizes down from your street shoe. Not the lace ups.

Just got a pair of the Scarpa Instinct VS (orange) and really like them too. I down sized 1.5 from my street shoe.

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,392

Acopa Aztecs

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687
Rico Kazee wrote: I’m surprised nobody has mentioned La Sportiva Mythos. Hands down the best.

LOL. Right up there with old, blown out Mocs.

Matt Griffin · · Madison, WI · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 328

Really digging the Butora Acro at the moment.  

Ian White · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

I am pretty much the exact build as you. As a pure stiff sport climbing edging shoe, I love the Black Diamond Focus. I can barely get my feet into the 13 (biggest they go) but it is aggressive and super stiff. At our weight we need (at least I do) a super stiff shoe. For more of a stiff all day trad shoe I went with the Butora Mantra 

Alek Fredriksson · · Columbia, MD · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 969

I'm a lighter climber and only use my old Katana Laces for edging. But get whatever fits you foot best!

Henten Anders · · Black Hills of South Dakota · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 5
Danny Poceta wrote: scarpa. boostic.

EDIT! You're going to get a lot of responses with everyone's personal favorite, but the actual difference in edging power between good stiff shoes (boostic, miura, katana, TC, blanco, etc.) will be negligible. Get what fits.

I have a pair of blancos that are sized down 0.5 sizes and I have a pair of skwama that are 4.5 sizes down. And yet at my weight the blancos are still better at edging.

Henten Anders · · Black Hills of South Dakota · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 5
Ian White wrote: I am pretty much the exact build as you. As a pure stiff sport climbing edging shoe, I love the Black Diamond Focus. I can barely get my feet into the 13 (biggest they go) but it is aggressive and super stiff. At our weight we need (at least I do) a super stiff shoe. For more of a stiff all day trad shoe I went with the Butora Mantra 

What is your street shoe size?

Ian White · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
Henten Anders wrote:

What is your street shoe size?

I usually wear a 14 street shoe. 13 in BD for a super tight fit, 13 in butora for an all day trad / crack fit

Jeremy Yatvin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 116

Futuras. Done. Incredibly precise, and the no edge gives you even better leverage on tiny features. Very confidence inspiring once you adapt. 

Cron · · Maine / NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 60

5.10 Blacos are my goto for techy edging

Evan18 Horenovsky · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1

How long you planning on standing on those edges?  For boulders/single pitch, the Futura is absolutely amazing.  If your talking about continuous execution all day long, then you need something with more suport otherwise your foot will fall off - TC (although I hate the shoe, people climb edgy shit way harder than I ever could so they must know something), katana, blanco...  At that point its just what fits your foot and the amount of support v. sensitivity you want.

Jeremy Yatvin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 116

For sure, futuras are short time only shoes! 

Andre Chiang · · Durham · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 95

Scarpa vapor lace:
- very snug fit, great for heel hooks and dancing on microscopic edges
- light weight shoes, with great breathability although if you have sweaty feet no shoe will help
- nice toe patch in new and old version for crack jamming the feet
- super comfortable, no airspaces in the shoes (makes a sucking sound when taking the shoe off)
- XS edge rubber 4mm (I Think) when I resoled I resoled it with 5mm for a longer lasting shoe and more support
- full rubber outsole very good support for long climbs but also maintains an slight downturn which is nice

cons:
- I am not sponsored by Scarpa
- Its a bit pricey (good sales on banana fingers sometimes)

Brandon Ribblett · · The road · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 80

Scarpa boostic is by far the best edging shoe I've used. Best for a wide fore foot and I sized up a half size 

Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 292
Ken Duncan · · Ft Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2004 · Points: 5,830
Jeremy Y wrote: Futuras. Done. Incredibly precise, and the no edge gives you even better leverage on tiny features. Very confidence inspiring once you adapt. 

You say once you adapt. How do you climb differently?

Martin Brzozowski · · Brownsville, TX · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 120

toenails

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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