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Henten Anders
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Mar 25, 2020
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Black Hills of South Dakota
· Joined Apr 2019
· Points: 5
What is the best edging shoe? I have been looking at the La Spotiva Miura VS and Katana lace. As well as the Unparallel NewTro lace/vcs, and the Up Lace.
P.S I am 6ft 6in and 250lbs.
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Danny Poceta
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Mar 25, 2020
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Canmore
· Joined Nov 2013
· Points: 98
scarpa. boostic.
EDIT! You're going to get a lot of responses with everyone's personal favorite, but the actual difference in edging power between good stiff shoes (boostic, miura, katana, TC, blanco, etc.) will be negligible. Get what fits.
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Alan Zhan
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Mar 25, 2020
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Seattle, WA
· Joined Jul 2013
· Points: 156
I've always been partial to the five ten line of anasazi blanco/verde/pink. I've been pretty satisfied with the performance of my pinks and blancos at smith rock.
Recently bought a pair of Acopa Legends and I have found that they are quite good at edging as well, though fairly insensitive through the break in period.
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Gumby boy king
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Mar 25, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2019
· Points: 547
Muira VS 2-2.5 sizes down from your street shoe. Not the lace ups.
Just got a pair of the Scarpa Instinct VS (orange) and really like them too. I down sized 1.5 from my street shoe.
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Michael Brady
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Mar 25, 2020
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Wenatchee, WA
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 1,392
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Gunkiemike
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Mar 25, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,687
Rico Kazee wrote: I’m surprised nobody has mentioned La Sportiva Mythos. Hands down the best. LOL. Right up there with old, blown out Mocs.
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Matt Griffin
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Mar 25, 2020
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Madison, WI
· Joined Aug 2018
· Points: 328
Really digging the Butora Acro at the moment.
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Ian White
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Mar 25, 2020
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Denver, CO
· Joined Oct 2017
· Points: 0
I am pretty much the exact build as you. As a pure stiff sport climbing edging shoe, I love the Black Diamond Focus. I can barely get my feet into the 13 (biggest they go) but it is aggressive and super stiff. At our weight we need (at least I do) a super stiff shoe. For more of a stiff all day trad shoe I went with the Butora Mantra
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Alek Fredriksson
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Mar 25, 2020
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Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
I'm a lighter climber and only use my old Katana Laces for edging. But get whatever fits you foot best!
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Henten Anders
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Mar 25, 2020
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Black Hills of South Dakota
· Joined Apr 2019
· Points: 5
Danny Poceta wrote: scarpa. boostic.
EDIT! You're going to get a lot of responses with everyone's personal favorite, but the actual difference in edging power between good stiff shoes (boostic, miura, katana, TC, blanco, etc.) will be negligible. Get what fits. I have a pair of blancos that are sized down 0.5 sizes and I have a pair of skwama that are 4.5 sizes down. And yet at my weight the blancos are still better at edging.
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Henten Anders
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Mar 25, 2020
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Black Hills of South Dakota
· Joined Apr 2019
· Points: 5
Ian White wrote: I am pretty much the exact build as you. As a pure stiff sport climbing edging shoe, I love the Black Diamond Focus. I can barely get my feet into the 13 (biggest they go) but it is aggressive and super stiff. At our weight we need (at least I do) a super stiff shoe. For more of a stiff all day trad shoe I went with the Butora Mantra What is your street shoe size?
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Ian White
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Mar 25, 2020
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Denver, CO
· Joined Oct 2017
· Points: 0
Henten Anders wrote: What is your street shoe size? I usually wear a 14 street shoe. 13 in BD for a super tight fit, 13 in butora for an all day trad / crack fit
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Jeremy Yatvin
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Mar 25, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2013
· Points: 116
Futuras. Done. Incredibly precise, and the no edge gives you even better leverage on tiny features. Very confidence inspiring once you adapt.
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Cron
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Mar 25, 2020
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Maine / NH
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 60
5.10 Blacos are my goto for techy edging
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Evan18 Horenovsky
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Mar 25, 2020
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Mar 2012
· Points: 1
How long you planning on standing on those edges? For boulders/single pitch, the Futura is absolutely amazing. If your talking about continuous execution all day long, then you need something with more suport otherwise your foot will fall off - TC (although I hate the shoe, people climb edgy shit way harder than I ever could so they must know something), katana, blanco... At that point its just what fits your foot and the amount of support v. sensitivity you want.
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Jeremy Yatvin
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Mar 29, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2013
· Points: 116
For sure, futuras are short time only shoes!
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Andre Chiang
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Mar 29, 2020
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Durham
· Joined Mar 2019
· Points: 95
Scarpa vapor lace: - very snug fit, great for heel hooks and dancing on microscopic edges - light weight shoes, with great breathability although if you have sweaty feet no shoe will help - nice toe patch in new and old version for crack jamming the feet - super comfortable, no airspaces in the shoes (makes a sucking sound when taking the shoe off) - XS edge rubber 4mm (I Think) when I resoled I resoled it with 5mm for a longer lasting shoe and more support - full rubber outsole very good support for long climbs but also maintains an slight downturn which is nice
cons: - I am not sponsored by Scarpa - Its a bit pricey (good sales on banana fingers sometimes)
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Brandon Ribblett
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Mar 29, 2020
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The road
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 80
Scarpa boostic is by far the best edging shoe I've used. Best for a wide fore foot and I sized up a half size
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Max R
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Mar 29, 2020
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Bend
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 292
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Ken Duncan
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Mar 30, 2020
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Ft Collins, CO
· Joined Jul 2004
· Points: 5,830
Jeremy Y wrote: Futuras. Done. Incredibly precise, and the no edge gives you even better leverage on tiny features. Very confidence inspiring once you adapt. You say once you adapt. How do you climb differently?
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Martin Brzozowski
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Mar 30, 2020
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Brownsville, TX
· Joined Aug 2019
· Points: 120
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