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New Crack climbing/trad shoe

Original Post
Ben Molloy · · Keene, NY · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

 I’m contemplating what shoe I should get for my next crack climbing/trad shoe. I’m torn between the TC Pros, which I have heard great things about and like the idea of a comfortable jamming shoe that does well on small edges, though I am concerned about their lack of sensitivity and price.

I am also considering the Five Ten Moccs, which are appealing for the fact that they’re a comfy slipper, as well as maybe more sensitive than the tc pros. The price also is enticing, though it seems like adidas has had a negative effect on the quality of them nowadays.

Price is obviously enticing with the moccs but only if the quality will last, and I’m wondering how people who maybe have tried them both feel about my dilemma. Was there a noticeable lack of sensitivity in the TC pros? Is there a clear downgrade in quality among Adidas era Moccs, or am I simply seeing anomalies When people post about new Moccs being torn up in a mere days?

Adam J · · Provo · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 45

I've owned two pairs of mocs, one before adidas and one after. The first were great; I sized them down two sizes and they stretched to fit my foot perfectly. With the second pair I planned on doing the same, but they only stretched about half a size and are uncomfortable to wear. other than that, they are still a good shoe in my case, but I have heard lots of negativity regarding wear on new mocs. In contrast, I've never heard a bad review about TC Pros

Justin Butler · · Murrieta · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 261

When I first purchased my Five Ten Grandstones I thought they were pretty okay. But now that ive climbed in them a while they are top tier trad shoes. They jam amazing, can handle offwidths, toecams, regular hand cracks, and do even alright at some finger cracks. Check em out

Drew Alldredge · · Coronado, CA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Hardly use the TC's since buying Katanas

Sam Skovgaard · · Port Angeles, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 208

I LOVE my TC pros. With how much my feet hurt after doing a lot of foot jamming, I'm not sure I want something more sensitive.  Maybe you have better technique/more dead nerve endings than I do.

Jack C · · Tennessee · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 325

Maybe consider Evolv's new version of the mocc. The addict's had a ridiculously loose heel but the new raves have supposedly taken care of that issue.  I'm excited to get a pair on my feet (although how deep the elastic cuts are on the upper might make them less ideal for less frequented cracks #2 or wider.). They're quite appealing considering you can get them for less than $90, although admittedly I've never been much a fan of the brand. I'm willing to give it a shot now considering Adidas has gummed up the 5.10 line so much. 

J D · · SC · Joined May 2017 · Points: 25

I've heard it said that the Anasazi pinks by 5.10 are a compromise between the mocs and the pros. More sensitive and better rubber than the pros for smearing yet edge nearly as well as the pros which is one of the areas that mocs lack in. Maybe check them out as well

rkrum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 61

The mocs and tc pros are polar opposites of the climbing shoe world - I am puzzled how you could be considering both. It's like considering a sports car and a dump truck to fill the same role.

What shoes do you climb in now?

Out of those two, I would suggest TC pro assuming they fit your feet. The only thing that the moc would do better would be jamming pure splitters smaller than .5 camalot. Yes, you maybe won't be able to feel the edges you'll be standing on, but at least you'll be standing on them not sliding off them with an unsupportive slipper.

Adam Forestier · · Big Pine · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 50

Having had both the five ten grandstone and tc pro; i'd recommend the grandstone; but that is just personal preference

Robert S · · Driftwood, TX · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 661

Another positive vote for the Grandstones. They're still taking their time getting comfy, but they perform really well.

Ben Molloy · · Keene, NY · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

I’m considering both because they’re probably the two pairs of shoes I see the most people in (other than the acros ...) and I have heard great things about both, that being said the things that place them on opposite sides of the spectrum in terms of shoes each appeal to me, just seeing which is more preferred. I might look into the Grandstones, Thanks for the advice gang!
PS, I climb in the Anasazi Pink lace ups right now, which I like but I had to leave them behind at school and can’t get to them for a few months, hence why I was considering the moccs as a cheap option till then. That being said, if I get a new pair I like the pinks will become my gym shoe as they are towards the end of their life spans.

Alex Styp · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 75

Maestro low top from SCARPA. Stiffer than the high top, doesn't have as aggressive of a heel "slingshot" rand as a TC. Super comfy and edges very well. Pretty good rubber coverage in front for jamming and toe box is just aggressive enough to perform.
 Ankle coverage is overrated.

Timmy Rickert · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 46

If you're living in the ADK and don't have a pair of TC pros get them. I have those and the Mocs, love them both. I downsized the mocs quite a bit so don't like them much for cracks  (uncomfortable jams). The Toe box is fairly big on the TC pro so for fine hand finger cracks, I find it difficult to get a confident inspiring jam (lack of technique).  That being said... I would like to pick up a pair of Moccs a half size up from what I currently have or something similar for the tighter cracks/ < .75-1" in Indian creek.

Tyler Ramsey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

This reads like it was written by an algorithm

Rexford Nesakwatch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

I feel that the TCs are like the Mythos - a shoe that everyone owned and loved for a time, until something better came along. That something now are the Five Ten Grandstones. Which, after a five year wait, finally became available and now they are unavailable again...

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 363

  Love the new Grandstones better than the last ones.   They were very stiff and uncomfortable at first but after a week of climbing in  them they are now very comfortable and a great performing all day shoe.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687

OP - as far as price goes, the TCP's will stand up to several resoles, after which your costs will be as low as, or lower than, the multiple pair of Mocs you've bought.

Gumby boy king · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 547

Used to rave about TC pro's but since have drifted away from them. I like the mocs and have one pair, but they are for thin (.5-#1 cam size) indian creek like splitters, the narrow toe box is great. Pretty much muira's for everything else.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

I'll throw the Boreal Aces or Boreal Ballet Gold in the ring. They jam hand crack and larger as well if not better than any of the shoes mentioned. They don't really excel on .75 C4 and thinner cracks.

They edge like crazy, they are super stiff.  I can climb a 80 foot hand-crack and my feet won't be dying.  The Butora high tops IMO are too soft for serious crack work.

Jason Mills · · Northwest "Where climbers g… · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 7,248

Been digging my Evolv Generals the more I use them. 

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

Acopa JB's.  End of story.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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