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D B
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Mar 12, 2020
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Gardena (South Bay)
· Joined Sep 2017
· Points: 30
I’ve been climbing regularly for about 3 years now and I’m looking to start hangboarding. I’ve looked around online for a simple training routine for beginners but there are so many different options out there and they all seem so different.
Anyone have any recommendations of a routine they’ve used successfully when they first started?
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Ross Goldberg
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Mar 12, 2020
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El Segundo
· Joined Oct 2017
· Points: 203
Don B wrote: I’ve been climbing regularly for about 3 years now and I’m looking to start hangboarding. I’ve looked around online for a simple training routine for beginners but there are so many different options out there and they all seem so different.
Anyone have any recommendations of a routine they’ve used successfully when they first started? The Rock Climbers Training Manual has multiple hangboard routines as well as variations on the routines. Once you get stronger it has moderate and advance routines as well. It also has specs on how much extra or less weight you want to do depending on your situation. It has worked well for me.
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Seth Bleazard
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Mar 12, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2018
· Points: 714
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skik2000
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Mar 12, 2020
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Boulder
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 5
I haven't done it yet but this is a beginner program from my climbing gym...
A few things to remember. Warm up before starting! No injuries No crossing your feet Have fun! I find it easier with a partner.
6 week program of repeaters. A standard repeater is 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off for 6 sets totaling 1 minute. If this seems too hard, then go for 5 seconds on and 5 seconds off for 6 sets totaling 1 minute.
Week 1 and 2 4 holds- 3 sets per hold. 1 minute rest between sets and 3-5 minute rest between holds
Week 3 and 4 4 holds- 4 sets per hold. Same rest intervals.
Week 5 and 6 4 holds- 5 sets per hold. Same rest intervals.
If you cant make the sets then stick with what you can achieve. Remember you can take weight off if you want to help you through.
Take at least 2 weeks off from fingerboarding after the 6 week cycle.
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Not Not MP Admin
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Mar 12, 2020
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The OASIS
· Joined Nov 2018
· Points: 17
I would start with 7/3 repeaters to begin...just make sure you are ready and not going to actually promote injury. Most people use V5 as the base to which you should start hangboarding, but just listen to your body and make sure to rest appropriately, even when stoke is high.
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X C
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Mar 12, 2020
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Yucca Valley
· Joined Mar 2010
· Points: 71
Sorry to be that guy but unless you are turning to the hangboard because you have zero time or access to a climbing gym with bouldering, hangboarding seems like a waste of time and energy. Based on your recent climbing reported on this site your finger strength and forearm endurance are not limiting factors, and you should focus on skill practice over trying to cultivate more strength. Bouldering can help with both. The suggested repeater protocols might help with strength, but will likely be boring and not difficult enough to affect meaningful changes. Just one opinion, ymmv.
-Xan
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F Loyd
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Mar 12, 2020
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Kennewick, WA
· Joined Mar 2018
· Points: 808
It's not exactly a science, so there's plenty of versions. For beginning though, I would do any one that promotes large hold sets of repeaters that are shorter duration. Honestly shop around and give each one you try at least a month before you decide it's not working.
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Adam Ronchetti
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Mar 12, 2020
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Madison, WI
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 25
What do you want to work? Neuromuscular junctions: You want about equal work and rest cycles. I liked doing 5 to 10 seconds on a 3/4" edge and 10 seconds off. 6 reps of that equals a set. Rest 3-4 mins. 4 total sets. The point here is to gradually increase the amount of time you can hang and to gradually reprogram your neuromuscular junctions (those little things in your forearms ect. that lead to your brain and tell you that you're getting too pumped to keep the hold).
Tendons: Just about anything with small holds
Forearm muscles: 20 to 40 seconds on big(ish) edges with lots of rest between. When you can do three hangs all maxing out at 40 seconds go up in weight or down in hold size. NOTE: these are what I've been doing for a few weeks.
Also the standard disclaimer. I'm not a professional trainer or anything. I've just spent A LOT of time talking to different climbers and reading up on muscle systems and different hangboard protocols trying to come up with a few routines that work for me. Because I live in an area where outdoor climbing is seasonal. I would encourage you to find what works for you.
And don't get injured :)
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Seth Bleazard
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Mar 12, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2018
· Points: 714
Adam Ronchetti wrote: Forearm muscles: 20 to 40 seconds on big(ish) edges with lots of rest between. When you can do three hangs all maxing out at 40 seconds go up in weight or down in hold size. NOTE: these are what I've been doing for a few weeks.
Did you base this off Tyler Nelson's density hangs?
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Adam Ronchetti
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Mar 12, 2020
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Madison, WI
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 25
Seth Bleazard wrote: Did you base this off Tyler Nelson's density hangs? I did. I liked that podcast. It was also easier to do than the 70% max weighted hangs that the guys from Lattice Training use (on the Crimpt app).
Sorry, should have given credit where credit was due :-P
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D B
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Mar 12, 2020
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Gardena (South Bay)
· Joined Sep 2017
· Points: 30
Thanks for all the info. I’m looking for more tendon strength. I feel strong enough but I almost exclusively climb trad and only get into the climbing gym about 2x’s per month. Whenever I do climb sport though (low 10’s) I feel plenty strong but if I have to pull on a tiny edge for a move or two I feel like my fingers are going to explode if I have to hold on too long. Added tendon strength can come in handy on trad routes too.
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X C
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Mar 12, 2020
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Yucca Valley
· Joined Mar 2010
· Points: 71
Read as many finger strength training articles as you can stand and then I would highly recommend downloading the crimp'd app and using it to inform your work. It has built-in progress tracking, workouts (everything others have mentioned on this thread), timers, and it is free (for some reason). It is the most user-friendly climbing workout resource I have used, and I can't recommend it enough.
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Seth Bleazard
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Mar 13, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2018
· Points: 714
Adam Ronchetti wrote: I did. I liked that podcast. It was also easier to do than the 70% max weighted hangs that the guys from Lattice Training use (on the Crimpt app).
Sorry, should have given credit where credit was due :-P How have they affected your climbing? I haven't heard of many people who do them.
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Adam Ronchetti
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Mar 23, 2020
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Madison, WI
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 25
Seth Bleazard wrote: How have they affected your climbing? I haven't heard of many people who do them. The Lattice routine? It was okay just annoying to set up and do the metrics for. I prefer to use bodyweight hangs and alter the hold size or use big holds and add weight. I've noticed that my ability to use smaller (quarter to half pad) holds hasn't really increased much. But I'm less pumped after successive problems in the half to full pad range. That being said I have sausage fingers so I have to assume quarter pad to me is probably a half pad to others. :-P
That being said Lattice has some really good climbing based workouts. I started doing their drop interval (aerobic capacity) and boulder triples (anaerobic capacity) workouts but the Coronavirus hit and my gym closed before I could say anything about gains.
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