BD Crack gloves!

Sorry if I broke "the rules."  

Kristian Solem wrote: Sorry if I broke "the rules."  

"the rules" is just logic.

dindolino32 wrote:

"the rules" is just logic.

Okay, since this seems to matter to you, I’ll give it the respect it deserves, and play along.

There are two things going on here regarding my post. The first is entirely my fault, something I’ve done before. Slow learner I guess. That is that irony rarely comes across on internet forums. If you and I were sitting at a campfire, or across from one another at a picnic table, and I said those exact same words you would have known I was f’ing around and had a laugh. Posting on a forum all you have is the dry words, no drama or inflection. Add that to the fact that I’m expecting people, such as yourself, who so far as I know have never met me, have no sense of my personality, to get my drift is not smart on my part to say the least.

The other thing, though, is this. I’m kind of amazed, despite my mea-culpa above, that after reading my first paragraph you couldn't tell I was screwing around. “sexy leathery backs of your hands…,” “taping well is a fine art…” “Obviously they have no shame…”

“thin skinned hands of a surfer...” “your gobies and callouses are badges of honor…” “the leather of a fine shoe…” Please. You took that seriously?

Since it wasn’t just you, but all the others who put up the “evidence” pics and all, didn’t understand or particularly appreciate my post, I’ll chalk it up to yet another failure on my part to properly express my intent on a forum. Cheers.

Point taken. As a rare action on a forum, I’ll bow out of this conversation now and disregard our previous differences. Good day sir!

Used mine for the first time today and my thoughts are:

I really like how they fit and how thin they are, they never interfered with setting or releasing jams.  They aren't white anymore. My only complaint is that the wrist velcro is too short and quickly came undone while climbing. Nothing a quick wrap of tape can't fix but then the whole point is to not use tape.

dindolino32 wrote: Saying the opposite of what you think isn’t trolling. And there’s no actual sense of humor.  Let me give you an example using the well known “crack” joke for climbing.

1. “I don’t like crack climbing.....actually I do! Bwa ha ha you all got TROLLED! This is so funny but everyone else needs to get a sense of humor.”
2. “My mom said stay away from crack, I didn’t quite understand what she meant so I face climb while on cocaine.

Of course the gold standard for forum humor is... "Send it to me for testing and/or proper disposal"

Some more feedback about the BD gloves...

I got to try them out a couple of weeks ago and for me they were awesome. Based on the limited amount of climbing I did in them (4 pitches. Actually, the same pitch 4 times) they are my personal favorite of the crack gloves I have used (Ocun, OR). Here are some observations:

-I like that they are thin and low profile(I did not have any problems on thin hand james) but offer great coverage.
-I  was concerned about the velcro coming undone as well but I did not experience that issue at all, though the route I climbed was not a sustained, repetitive crack climb, but more varied. Still, the velcro stayed put and the tab did not come into contact with the rock at all on normal hand jams.
-They are harder to get on and off than other models due to the thumb coverage. Not a big deal if you are leaving them on all climb, but if I were planning on taking my gloves on and off throughout a long climb, I might go with the Ocun instead for this reason.
-No knuckle padding. I only care about this on sustained cupped hands (which I avoid anyway because I love myself) but they do not offer any meaningful padding for the hand (virtually identical to the OR in this department).
-Nothing to say about durability at this point.

If I remember and anyone is still interested I will try and provide more updates after further and more varied use.

Happy climbing!

Xan

Xan Calonne wrote: Some more feedback about the BD gloves...

I got to try them out a couple of weeks ago and for me they were awesome. Based on the limited amount of climbing I did in them (4 pitches. Actually, the same pitch 4 times) they are my personal favorite of the crack gloves I have used (Ocun, OR). Here are some observations:

-I like that they are thin and low profile(I did not have any problems on thin hand james) but offer great coverage.
-I  was concerned about the velcro coming undone as well but I did not experience that issue at all, though the route I climbed was not a sustained, repetitive crack climb, but more varied. Still, the velcro stayed put and the tab did not come into contact with the rock at all on normal hand jams.
-They are harder to get on and off than other models due to the thumb coverage. Not a big deal if you are leaving them on all climb, but if I were planning on taking my gloves on and off throughout a long climb, I might go with the Ocun instead for this reason.
-No knuckle padding. I only care about this on sustained cupped hands (which I avoid anyway because I love myself) but they do not offer any meaningful padding for the hand (virtually identical to the OR in this department).
-Nothing to say about durability at this point.

If I remember and anyone is still interested I will try and provide more updates after further and more varied use.

Happy climbing!

Xan

Great review, thanks!

Another sizing question, since I’m right on the transition between small and medium (8.5” palm girth). My ideal hand jam would be a #1.5 Camalot.

Those who have tried them, how much stretch have you noticed?

Great!!! Now I have a case of tape sitting in my garage that is totally useless now.  Thanks a lot BD

Fritz Nuffer wrote: Another sizing question, since I’m right on the transition between small and medium (8.5” palm girth). My ideal hand jam would be a #1.5 Camalot.

Those who have tried them, how much stretch have you noticed?

I’d say medium as I was smack in the middle of medium and they feel like they will need to stretch a bit

Gave them a whirl and found them much better than Ocun and slightly better than OR. The thumb protection is such a needed feature.

I do a full comparison write of up Ocun, OR and BD on my blog:
http://www.bricepollock.com/ultimate-crack-glove-review-ocun-or-black-diamond/

I just got mine. Medium was the ticket for me being directly between the measurements for small and medium.

I’m not a fan of the thumb coverage ... despite climbing wide hands and fists a good deal, I never get thumb gobies. 
The thumb hood restricts my ability to bend my thumb, so I might take a pair of scissors to it.
At first glance, I’m very happy with the build quality and thinness. We’ll see how they hold up on real rock ... someday ....

Has anybody who wears XS in the OR gloves tried these? The size charts say that BD's XS is a lot bigger and I'm worried it will be too loose.

Medium in Ocun is tight, medium in OR is perfect. Medium in BD seems a little on the loose side. Oh, and I hear Peter Croft has been spotted wearing crack gloves.

Kristian Solem wrote:

Okay, since this seems to matter to you, I’ll give it the respect it deserves, and play along.

There are two things going on here regarding my post. The first is entirely my fault, something I’ve done before. Slow learner I guess. That is that irony rarely comes across on internet forums. If you and I were sitting at a campfire, or across from one another at a picnic table, and I said those exact same words you would have known I was f’ing around and had a laugh. Posting on a forum all you have is the dry words, no drama or inflection. Add that to the fact that I’m expecting people, such as yourself, who so far as I know have never met me, have no sense of my personality, to get my drift is not smart on my part to say the least.

The other thing, though, is this. I’m kind of amazed, despite my mea-culpa above, that after reading my first paragraph you couldn't tell I was screwing around. “sexy leathery backs of your hands…,” “taping well is a fine art…” “Obviously they have no shame…”

“thin skinned hands of a surfer...” “your gobies and callouses are badges of honor…” “the leather of a fine shoe…” Please. You took that seriously?

Since it wasn’t just you, but all the others who put up the “evidence” pics and all, didn’t understand or particularly appreciate my post, I’ll chalk it up to yet another failure on my part to properly express my intent on a forum. Cheers.

I chuckled. Carry on. 

Austin Donisan wrote: Has anybody who wears XS in the OR gloves tried these? The size charts say that BD's XS is a lot bigger and I'm worried it will be too loose.

I think the OR XS's are perfect after a little bit of stretch, so I took a chance on the BD XS's.. Even after a couple of uses, they are 100% tighter than the OR version... Made me wish I got a pair of S's. I bet the BD pair will still stretch a little bit, but they seem to be more stretch-resistant than the OR's

Ryan Pfleger wrote: Oh, and I hear Peter Croft has been spotted wearing crack gloves.

Peter Croft's take on tape, from Pete Whittaker's Crack Climbing book:

Quick update to share here.  I used exterior paint (plus a little shark grip for texture) for my roof hands crack.  I had been jamming with the ocuns for a few weeks and finally busted out the BD crack gloves last night.  At least on my home crack, my jams were a lot more solid with the thinner gloves and I'm a huge fan of the glvoes already