Decrease in elongation of dynamic ropes over time?
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Do dynamic ropes lose a bit of elongation over time (either through wear from use or just degradation over time)? This seems anecdotally true, and the "elongation at first fall" rating is rather suggestive. I haven't been able to find anything published on this though. |
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When used heavily, yes they will lose elongation over time. Think of the rope like a rubber band. If you keep stretching it eventually the rubber band will lose the elasticity that it had when you pulled it from the package. I would only worry about losing elongation in your rope if you plan to beat the hell out of it and take massive falls continuously over long periods of time without changing which end you are falling on. |
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Two separate issues. |
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In order to find the edge of exertion, and reach peak performance without fear, {~)To be able to have control, focus & the power to climb better at harder grades (& longer run-outs) one needs to hone the ability to suspend one's 'disbelief' (or belief that YGD) ~ the only thing you really need to watch out for & even then in a pinch a wrap or 2 of Tenacious Tape or "Gorilla" brand tape will hold up for a few days on the wall... |
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mattm wrote: I’m a bit skeptical about this. 50 pitches is like one month of sport climbing. This means that a typical rope, after about 4 months of weekend sport climbing, would basically have the energy absorption of a steel cable. Considering that I generally retire a rope after two to four years, I do know that is not the case. |
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Suburban Roadside wrote: There is a thorough scientific study done by Black Diamond . . . . Could I get a link for this please? |
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https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/qc-lab-do-ropes-need-to-rest-between-falls.html
This article shows significant increase in forces after falls that is mostly recovered within 24 hours. |
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This might interest you, it pertains to lowering cycles vs rope degradation: |
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r m wrote:
This_ _ _ _ _ 1st link no workee________ might interest you, it pertains to lowering cycles vs rope degradation: http://personal.strath.ac.uk/andrew.mclaren/Turin2002/CD%20congresso/Safety%20loss%20.pdf & how does anything about rope failing by cutting over a edge help? the, 'stupid-bad-luck' of the German military, is literally a one off\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\Anything that re-enforces confidence, reduces fear & doubt, helps one focus on the climbing ropes in contact with sharp limestone edges - prone to cutting ? Who would have thunk it! so does this help? https://www.theuiaa.org/documents/safety/Conference_on_nylon_and_ropes.pdf & https://www.theuiaa.org/documents/safety/About_Ageing_of_Climbing_Ropes.pdf |
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Fair point, I was thinking "energy absorption", which is related non-trivially to elongation. But is a slightly different question! |
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John Ryan wrote: https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/qc-lab-do-ropes-need-to-rest-between-falls.html This is true. A rope should be allowed to rest after catching a hard fall. However, the above graphic from “weigh my rack” suggests that just climbing and lowering on about 200 pitches will cause a rope to lose around 90% of its energy absorption qualities, no falls needed. That, I disagree with. |
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the schmuck wrote: "Weigh My Rack" reused graph from https://www.theuiaa.org/documents/safety/About_Ageing_of_Climbing_Ropes.pdf |