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Building a route pyramid/RP attempts on the same day?

Original Post
Seth Bleazard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 714

As a climber who is new to getting outdoors, but doesn't have the opportunity to get out consistently I've found that I probably need to build up my route pyramid and try to work on a project on the same day. What would be the best strategy for accomplishing this? Warmup, then project, and then get mileage or the other way around?
Thanks!

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,395

I'd probably focus more on fun and exposure to the unique elements that make outdoor climbing different.  Namely (if trad), gear placement, efficient anchor building, reading the rock, safe partner protocols, etc.  If sport: efficient movement, clipping from odd stances, pacing, resting.  As you go up in the grades, these two disciplines kind of converge.

As far as route pyramid, it's a useful concept but I wouldn't get wrapped up in letting it dictate your days.  You'll find it happens naturally (to a degree; take a look at my tick pyramid here on the proj).  It's also important to go out with an objective.  Is today a performance day?  A learning day?  A mileage day?  I'd separate all of them rather than cram them into a single outing.  It would be hard to learn with everything crammed in.

At your current skill level, here's how I would structure a performance day out:
1x5.9
2x5.10
1x5.11 that you have dialed
1-3x attempts at 5.12, depending on energy.  At the beginning, 1 attempt may be all you get.  Top rope the climb, learn the moves, etc.
Alternatively, skip the 5.11 and hang-dog up the 5.12 without getting flash pumped.

I would do 1-2 of these per month.

As you zero in on the route, these performance days will probably shift to something more like 1x.510, 1x5.11, and then 2-3x burns on the project.

Learning day?
1x5.9
2x5.10
2x5.11 (that force you to learn)

Mileage day?
All the 5.9s and 5.10s you can throw in before dark.

Keep in mind that this is just a rough-shot idea.  Based on your crag, abilities, and interest level, you will have to adjust this accordingly.

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,667

Obviously projecting requires the most effort, and you can’t do meaningful redpoint attempts when you are already tired.

Assuming that you are talking about the gym, IMO the best would be

1) climbing warmup by doing several routes (2-3) of increasing difficulty (there is no reason why the last of these couldn’t be the grade of your best flash/bottom of your redpoint pyramid). 

2) give 3-4 tries to your project.

3) climb more routes of your flash level (also during this time, you could choose to try new routes that would become projects/mini-projects for later, without expecting that you would send them)

Outside, a lot would depend on what’s available at the crag, because it is rare that you have routes of all grades conveniently located nearby. But if you can mix and match, why not? 

Seth Bleazard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 714
Charlie S wrote: I'd probably focus more on fun and exposure to the unique elements that make outdoor climbing different.  Namely (if trad), gear placement, efficient anchor building, reading the rock, safe partner protocols, etc.  If sport: efficient movement, clipping from odd stances, pacing, resting.  As you go up in the grades, these two disciplines kind of converge.

As far as route pyramid, it's a useful concept but I wouldn't get wrapped up in letting it dictate your days.  You'll find it happens naturally (to a degree; take a look at my tick pyramid here on the proj).  It's also important to go out with an objective.  Is today a performance day?  A learning day?  A mileage day?  I'd separate all of them rather than cram them into a single outing.  It would be hard to learn with everything crammed in.

At your current skill level, here's how I would structure a performance day out:
1x5.9
2x5.10
1x5.11 that you have dialed
1-3x attempts at 5.12, depending on energy.  At the beginning, 1 attempt may be all you get.  Top rope the climb, learn the moves, etc.
Alternatively, skip the 5.11 and hang-dog up the 5.12 without getting flash pumped.

I would do 1-2 of these per month.

As you zero in on the route, these performance days will probably shift to something more like 1x.510, 1x5.11, and then 2-3x burns on the project.

Learning day?
1x5.9
2x5.10
2x5.11 (that force you to learn)

Mileage day?
All the 5.9s and 5.10s you can throw in before dark.

Keep in mind that this is just a rough-shot idea.  Based on your crag, abilities, and interest level, you will have to adjust this accordingly.

Really specific, thanks!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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