Beginner ice climber - questions on gear

Took my first real ice climbing trip this week here in New England and want to pick up one gear to be able to go more often. I’m considering purchasing a pair of Sportiva G5 boots and Petzl Lynx crampons based off some research and trying on quite a few boots. I’d like to able be able to do some light mountaineering as well (Mt Washington, few 4000m peaks in the alps, etc) and was wondering in addition to how they handle ice, if this pair would work well for that too or if I should be looking at something else? Thanks!

I have a pair of Lynx I ve been using for the past 2 years, all year, (thanks to their modular aspect) some ice climbing (maybe 15 days total) but mostly mountaineering in fall/summer (snow, ice, rock and mix) I say they can do it all.
Biggest drawback is they are quite heavy.
The good thing is, when you have the Lynx if you decide they are too heavy for mountaineering you can buy and switch with the lighter front section of the vasak or sarken, I m gonna do that for next summer

I also think those are good choices.  I think Fabien's comments are spot on re: the Lynx Crampons.

I've had the Lynx crampons for 4 or 5 seasons of ice climbing. They work pretty well, but if I was in the market I would be looking at the new Dart. I haven't used them personally, but they are lighter with better secondary points and the same modularity. The secondary points on the Lynx are a bit small, I have to put the bails in the rear most holes causing the bolts that secure the front points to protrude a bit past the end of the boot.

Some discussion and pics here:

New Petzl Dart Thread

Petzl's definitely on to something with their new ecosystem of modular crampons.  You can't go wrong with the Lynx, but I read that Petzl will be dropping them next season due to the modularity of the Dart, which now can be used as either mono or duals.  If you can find a set of new Lynx on sale, bag 'em, but if you're going to buy at retail, I'd probably go with the Darts.

Appreciate the replies everyone. As far as crampons go, I’ve read that the new Darts are great, but if you plan to do any mountaineering, the Lynx are a better all around, just a bit heavier. This advice still hold true?

Cameron Habib wrote: Appreciate the replies everyone. As far as crampons go, I’ve read that the new Darts are great, but if you plan to do any mountaineering, the Lynx are a better all around, just a bit heavier. This advice still hold true?

Totally, Darts would be a poor mountaineering crampon. they also only fit fully automatic compatible boots which can be an issue depending of the boots you have 

Since the arrival of the Kailas Krantz I think no one should buy the Lynx.

https://www.verticallstore.com/KAILAS_Krantz_Crampons/p4546831_19379328.aspx

The Krantz is made from carbon fiber and are much more lighter, the steels is better, the frontpoint is also extremly sharp and more durable. The price of the Krantz and also the replacement front points is cheaper, at least at Verti Call. I got rid of my Lynx the day I put my hands on the Krantz. Every time I show the Krantz at a festival, everyone aggred the crampons seem much much better than the Lynx but they also said that the crampons should be very too expansive. When I said it's cheaper than the Lynx, they just can't believe it. I climbed during 2-3 years with the Lynx and I don't see only one reason why a climber should buy this instead of the Krantz. 

New Darts...the greatest ice climbing crampon ever made

get a pair of lynx and a pair of old school wool mittens

Marc-Olivier Chabot wrote: Since the arrival of the Kailas Krantz I think no one should buy the Lynx.

https://www.verticallstore.com/KAILAS_Krantz_Crampons/p4546831_19379328.aspx

The Krantz is made from carbon fiber and are much more lighter, the steels is better, the frontpoint is also extremly sharp and more durable. The price of the Krantz and also the replacement front points is cheaper, at least at Verti Call. I got rid of my Lynx the day I put my hands on the Krantz. Every time I show the Krantz at a festival, everyone aggred the crampons seem much much better than the Lynx but they also said that the crampons should be very too expansive. When I said it's cheaper than the Lynx, they just can't believe it. I climbed during 2-3 years with the Lynx and I don't see only one reason why a climber should buy this instead of the Krantz. 

SEEMS nice but apart from the fact that no one can tell us anything about the durability of those crampons or the customer support they are only compatible with automatic boots 

Marc-Olivier Chabot wrote: When I said it's cheaper than the Lynx, they just can't believe it.

you posted a link to a crampon that is on sale, yet 20 dollars more expensive than the Lynx, which you can also find spare parts for at any decent shop.

Fabien Mathieu wrote:

Seems really nice but apart from the fact that no one can tell us anything about the durability of those crampons or the customer support they are only compatible with automatic boots 

It's my second winter doing ice, mixed and drytooling. Same for Stas Beskin who climb crazy shit weekly. Carbon is not strong as stainless but it's not an issue for me. Carbon tool are on the market for so long without problems. The climber that decided to remove this crampon from his possible buying list because of the durability should consider buying metal wire loop instead of dyneema sling. 

PWZ wrote:

you posted a link to a crampon that is on sale, yet 20 dollars more expensive than the Lynx, which you can also find spare parts for at any decent shop.

Lynx 250 USD > Krantz 280 CAD (210 USD). 

In Canada the Lynx front point is 55 CAD. Krantz is 35$ and is much better quality.

Petzl is much more popular and easy to find but my post was about quality and performance. Innovative quality product is my main attraction even more when it's cheap. 

Marc-Olivier Chabot wrote:

It's my second winter doing ice, mixed and drytooling. Same for Stas Beskin who climb crazy shit weekly. Carbon is not strong as stainless but it's not an issue for me. Carbon tool are on the market for so long without problems. The climber that decided to remove this crampon from his possible buying list because of the durability should consider buying metal wire loop instead of dyneema sling. 

FWIW, these crampons only use carbon as anti-balling plates, not as structural pieces of the crampon. 

David Maver wrote:

FWIW, these crampons only use carbon as anti-balling plates, not as structural pieces of the crampon. 

Krantz looks like the love child of a BD Cyborg and Petzl Lynx. No reason to expect it not to be a solid performer, but lots of promising gear fails to get traction in the US if they don't have a big retail presence. Demoing at all the ice festivals doesn't hurt too. I'd be more interested if it sold for $189.

Gunkiemike wrote:

I'd be more interested if it sold for $189.

Me too but performing gear is usually expansive. This piece of gear, if it was stamp by Petzl would be twice of the actual price and the Lynx would be discontinued. 

 

Marc-Olivier Chabot wrote:

Me too but performing gear is usually expansive. This piece of gear, if it was stamp by Petzl would be twice of the actual price and the Lynx would be discontinued. 

 

The Petzl Dart is lighter than these crampons and cheaper at full price.

New Dart (fronts) are $112 at MooseJaw right now. I just wish the ice wasn't a 9 hour drive away. I wonder if you can climb trees with Darts? Plenty of those... all year long. : - ) 

Shaniac wrote: New Dart (fronts) are $112 at MooseJaw right now. I just wish the ice wasn't a 9 hour drive away. I wonder if you can climb trees with Darts? Plenty of those... all year long. : - ) 

Those front sections are so worth it if you have another (lesser) pair of Petzl crampons.

David Maver wrote:

FWIW, these crampons only use carbon as anti-balling plates, not as structural pieces of the crampon. 

The middle part of hole in front of the crampon where you put the screw for the front point is in carbon. It's to me structural. Without this the front point is kaput. But fact is if the brand can somehow make a modification and result with a lighter product, they reach their goals. Structural or not doesn't mater to me and should not mater to you too. Total weight mater.