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Strange finger tendon pain

Original Post
Reed Wolfe Wawrzynek · · Ithaca, NY · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 5

I’ve been having extended finger pain in the palm of my hand that is making my middle, ring and pinkie fingers unusable because of The pain in my palm when I use them. it hurts the most when I close my hand all the way, but when holding larger objects its not that painfull. It happened about 3 weeks ago when I was doing a two finger pocket hang for a finish, and my heel popped out of the heel hook, and instead of falling, I just tried to finish the route. I wa sable to take a lot of weight on that hand, but couldn't release my other hand to match, and so when I came off the wall, the pain you get when using a hand didn’t go away after a few seconds like it normally does. I continued to climb on it that day, and the pain stayed about the same, so I figured it would go away. After that day it got much better the next, and so I figured it would go away on its own, but I continued to climb on it. Each time I did, it would get a little worse, but much better after resting, so I assumed it would get better. After a few weeks, I ended up climbing a harder route than I intended and I pulled it pretty bad, and the healing slowed way down since, but I have been climbing with only one arm to give it full rest. There are no pulleys where it hurts, so I’m not sure what it is and my doctor thought it might be tendinitis, but she wasn’t sure.
Anyone have similar pain, or Have any idea what it might be?

CritConrad · · Bend, OR · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 641

This is not tendonitis.  This is an acute injury to a tendon in your palm, treat it as such.  It's not going to just "go away" on its own.  You are injured, let it sink in.  It will take a fairly long process of rest and rehab to get it better.  These things takes lots of time.  Start with taking a couple weeks COMPLETELY off from climbing.  Focus on getting inflammation out of the area and promoting blood flow to the injury.  This, in my experience, is best done with a lot of contrast baths; one minute in hot water, one minute in cold water, always ending on cold to get rid of excess inflammation.  Maybe do some LIGHT massage with some oils while watching a show or something, and lots of range of motion exercises.  After a couple weeks, slowly start climbing again with ZERO pain.  once you can do that for about a week pain free, start ramping it up SLOWLY.  If you get all psyched and jump right back in to climbing hard you could re-injure it.  A great way to really be systematic about recovery is to do negatively-weighted hangs on a hang board.  That is how you can best judge exactly how much pain is ok.  A PT on a podcast I listened to said you're aiming for "Mild familiar discomfort".  Not pain.

It's a lengthy process, but as soon as you start treating yourself like you're actually injured, I think you'll stand a better chance of letting it properly heal.  Good luck!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

What do you think about seeing a doctor? Do you think a hand surgeon might know?

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256

flexor unit strain

Reed Wolfe Wawrzynek · · Ithaca, NY · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 5

I think I’m going to go see a PT, but likely I will be told to rest, which I understand is the right thing to do.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Injuries and Accidents
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