La Sportiva Solution Comp and Theory seem to be available in the stores but they are hard to get. Anyone here with some feedback?

Hi :)

I have seen that you can already order the new Solution Comp and Theory from different online stores. They are either out of stock or only available in size elephant. Perhaps it is a bit early to ask for feedback because people need to break them in first to give a review. I just thought I try my luck here and see if anyone can say something about them, mostly regarding the size and in comparison with the old Solution and other La Sportiva shoes.
I wore 3 pairs of Solution and changed to the Futuras last year. Both size 39.5EU. For me the Solution was a bit too stiff and the Futura is probably a bit too soft sometimes (heelhooks mostly), even though I really love my Futuras. How should I size them? How do they feel out of the box compared to the old Solution and the Futura? How does the Theory compare to the Skwama for example (lacing system seems equal)? Any information is greatly appreciated :)

Greetings,
Tobi  

I've been wearing the Solution Comp for about two weeks now. I ended up with the same size as the OG Solution (39.5). They do feel a bit lower volume at first, but break in much more quickly because they are much softer. They actually feel very much like a Python or Skwama in the midsole, but with Solution fit and performance (pointy toe). The rubber on top of the shoe is very thin, soft, and sticky. Toe hooking is great. My one big question mark is heel hooking performance. The heel is much lower volume than the OG Solution, and it sits lower on my achilles. I haven't had a chance to pull hard on the heel yet, but the fit is questionable for my foot shape. For reference the old molded heel fits me perfectly. I think these will now fill the role of my all around do everything shoe, as they are a good middle ground between my OG Solutions and Dragos.

As far as the Theory goes, it's my understanding that they won't be released until mid May at the earliest. Maybe some places are doing pre-sale?
I did get to try on a sample, and for a super performance fit I would go a half size down from my Solutions (39). At that size it feels like a painted on rubber sock. For some more comfort the same size as the Solution would work. I don't think this one is going to stretch much, since it is almost entirely rubber. The forefoot is a bit wider than the Solution, it fits a bit more like the Futura, but is much much softer. I really can't wait to climb in this one, it is such a badass shoe.
For reference I wear (performance fit) 39 Drago, 39.5 Instinct VSR, 38.5 Skwama, 39.5 Solution, 39.5 Solution Comp, 38.5 old Python, 8.5 Unparallel VIM. Half size up in each for "comfy". Street is 43 Boulder X, 8.5/9 Evolv Rebel, 42.5 Sportiva runners.
Hope this helps some.

Rocco wrote: I've been wearing the Solution Comp for about two weeks now. I ended up with the same size as the OG Solution (39.5). They do feel a bit lower volume at first, but break in much more quickly because they are much softer. They actually feel very much like a Python or Skwama in the midsole, but with Solution fit and performance (pointy toe). The rubber on top of the shoe is very thin, soft, and sticky. Toe hooking is great. My one big question mark is heel hooking performance. The heel is much lower volume than the OG Solution, and it sits lower on my achilles. I haven't had a chance to pull hard on the heel yet, but the fit is questionable for my foot shape. For reference the old molded heel fits me perfectly. I think these will now fill the role of my all around do everything shoe, as they are a good middle ground between my OG Solutions and Dragos.

As far as the Theory goes, it's my understanding that they won't be released until mid May at the earliest. Maybe some places are doing pre-sale?
I did get to try on a sample, and for a super performance fit I would go a half size down from my Solutions (39). At that size it feels like a painted on rubber sock. For some more comfort the same size as the Solution would work. I don't think this one is going to stretch much, since it is almost entirely rubber. The forefoot is a bit wider than the Solution, it fits a bit more like the Futura, but is much much softer. I really can't wait to climb in this one, it is such a badass shoe.
For reference I wear (performance fit) 39 Drago, 39.5 Instinct VSR, 38.5 Skwama, 39.5 Solution, 39.5 Solution Comp, 38.5 old Python, 8.5 Unparallel VIM. Half size up in each for "comfy". Street is 43 Boulder X, 8.5/9 Evolv Rebel, 42.5 Sportiva runners.
Hope this helps some.

Thanks a lot! I am street shoe size 42 and I can not imagine going down another full size. You are crazy :D So I will probably go for 39.5 in Solution and try the Theory in 39.5/39 to see what's better. I know that the Skwama works in 39 for me, so one of these two sizes will fit :) Regarding the pre-sale, I have seen them in the epic.tv shop and some other stores. I am from germany and I haven't seen them in the german online stores yet. I normally order my shoes from sportokay but they are not even listed there. Also interesting that you are also wearing the Dragos. La Sportiva fits me really well but the Scarpa Drago just didn't work out for me in any size imaginable.  

I've always been a Sportiva die hard too. The Drago doesn't fit me perfectly, I just get them tight and let them stretch to fit. I really like the softness, and find it worth the fit compromise. I've never liked the no-edge of the Speedster and Futura, which is why I'm so psyched for the Theory. It fits me much better than the Drago, and has an edge.

I have the women's version in the same size as my standard Solutions. The heel fits me better than my women's Futuras and I like the way they climb a ton more. Super comfortable for how downsized they are. Still like the normal version more for many situations as the stiffness helps with powerful moves on bad feet.  I have Skwamas I will be returning to REI as the comps fit and climb much  better and have better build quality

That sounds great. Just received an e-mail from one of my german shops that the solution comp is now available in 39.5 EU! I ordered in seconds :). Can't wait to test them.

I got my Theory a week ago and I like them very much! They have an edge and are very soft. they are a combination of the Futura which i love and the Solutions. They are very comfortable with a great heel and toes hook. Best bouldering show I have hands downs!

I've been wearing the Theory's for a couple months now (got them on pre-sale in size elephant, haha).

My first love has been the normal Solutions, but I was kind of hoping that the Theory would replace them as my go-to shoe. The Theory feels a bit like a combination of a Solution and a 5.10 Team (or Futura). The big difference is how aggressive the toes are knuckled down in the Theory compared to the Solutions, and how much softer they are. I like the combination of edge at the toe and wrap around the sides. The heel took me a little bit to get used to since there is still some stiffness to the heel, but it still has plenty of sensitivity. Now that I've broken them in, the heel feels really good and I can think with my heels. The best part is now that they fit to my foot, I almost forget that I have them on, and can just climb. One thing that I don't love about them, is on really aggressive toe hooks, my toes can get pulled away from the shoe, so it settles weirdly on my toes, and I have to undo the shoe to fix it. I think that's mostly because the thin rubber on the top stretches some, and the aggressive angle doesn't slide the same. Maybe this will resolve as I use them more, but just a note for when hooking really hard with the tip of the shoe of jugs. Honestly, if it weren't for the Solution heel, I'd probably only bring the Theory and HiAngles to the crag to cover 99% of boulders. Overall, if you want a soft shoe that can do pretty much anything, this does a really good job. If you want peak comfort in 100% of cases, this may be too aggressive.

As for sizing, I'm a US street 13.5 (EU 47.5 or 48). Performance fit La Sportiva 43 (Solutions, Skwama, Theory), can't fit smaller than 42.5 (Solution Skwama), comfort 44 (Testarossa). Scarpa performance fit is 44. Five Ten HiAngles 11, Teams and Dragons 12. 

Hello! I am interested in buying a pair of Testarossas (the previous model), I have doubts about the size ... I use 39 eu in Solution and 39.5 in Miura VS, what size would you recommend?

Tobias Gries wrote: Hi :)

I have seen that you can already order the new Solution Comp and Theory from different online stores. They are either out of stock or only available in size elephant. Perhaps it is a bit early to ask for feedback because people need to break them in first to give a review. I just thought I try my luck here and see if anyone can say something about them, mostly regarding the size and in comparison with the old Solution and other La Sportiva shoes.
I wore 3 pairs of Solution and changed to the Futuras last year. Both size 39.5EU. For me the Solution was a bit too stiff and the Futura is probably a bit too soft sometimes (heelhooks mostly), even though I really love my Futuras. How should I size them? How do they feel out of the box compared to the old Solution and the Futura? How does the Theory compare to the Skwama for example (lacing system seems equal)? Any information is greatly appreciated :)

Greetings,
Tobi  

i bought la sportiva theory as i could not find futuras here in France (around briancon).I sized them the same as futuras (37).They seem very similar though a bit more down turned and on my foot the heel is a much better fit.Also they feel softer...like a very well worn in futura or scarpa booster S.

Throwing in my 2c about sizing since I got my pair today. My street shoe size is 10, wear size 43 TX2s, 40 skwamas and solutions. The skwamas are pretty snug and incredibly comfortable, maybe could have gone down a half size in those. I got size 40 Theory's and they fit like a sock, the toebox fits my wider foot nicely. Surprisingly, I didn't need to use the plastic to get them on the first time. I reckon they'll be like the Skwamas once they break in: fits like a sock and super comfortable. The heel fit on the solutions is bomber for me, skwamas also are really good. The heel is snug but feels like it rides a bit low. We'll see though! I'll edit this once I get some time outside.

I wear 42 street, 40 skwama, 40.5 genius, 40.5 Katana laces,... what size would you guys suggest for the Theory?

M D wrote:

I wear 42 street, 40 skwama, 40.5 genius, 40.5 Katana laces,... what size would you guys suggest for the Theory?

I wear a 42/42.5 street, 39 Skwama (38.5 is the absolute smallest I can physically get on my foot), 39.5 Theory (39 is absolute smallest I can get on). Once broken in the Skwama and Theory  both feel reasonably "comfortable", but I don't feel like I'd see increased performance from the smaller sizes. I have a wide toebox and a narrow heel. Keep in mind I have over two decades of cramming my foot into the smallest shoe possible, so my idea of comfort may be different than others. Hope this helps some.

Rocco wrote:

I wear a 42/42.5 street, 39 Skwama (38.5 is the absolute smallest I can physically get on my foot), 39.5 Theory (39 is absolute smallest I can get on). Once broken in the Skwama and Theory  both feel reasonably "comfortable", but I don't feel like I'd see increased performance from the smaller sizes. I have a wide toebox and a narrow heel. Keep in mind I have over two decades of cramming my foot into the smallest shoe possible, so my idea of comfort may be different than others. Hope this helps some.

thanks mate. very helpful. I probably should have gone with the 40.5 but I’ll see how the 40 goes.

David Swaine wrote:

I bought 37 in the theory the same as my futura .In hindsight I could have downsized  half a size At the general level I climb I would say they don't perform any better than futura  oudoors. .For what they were designed for predominantly extreme indoor climbing I bet they're special though.

yeah I’m predominantly indoor, 5-7 times a week with only a fortnightly or less outdoor mission. 

I have the genius and Katana laces for outdoor. Theory is definitely for indoor to rotate with the skwamas that I reckon are fantastic

To revive a dead thread, has anyone been trying these shoes outdoors? I love my solutions but the toe patch is always pealing off on me from sharp toe hooks outdoors, I read the top rubber is thin but it goes waaay higher up the shoe. Is it too fragile of a shoe for what I want it for? 

that guy named seb wrote:

To revive a dead thread, has anyone been trying these shoes outdoors? I love my solutions but the toe patch is always pealing off on me from sharp toe hooks outdoors, I read the top rubber is thin but it goes waaay higher up the shoe. Is it too fragile of a shoe for what I want it for? 

I'd say the Theory are very robust around the toe box.Outside they would complement a stiffer shoe like a solution.Sized tight I imagine their edging potential would come into its own.I have gone back to wearing Speedster's and Futuras as I prefer these shoes.I get great performance out of these shoes without having to size them down to much.

Ive tried my solution comps outside a bit. They are sized 2 sizes down from street shoe size so they are snug but could be tighter. I have to say they were horrible for the outdoor climbing i tried. They offered barely any support for smaller footholds, so they felt very strenuous to use. I dont see myself using these outside again anytime soon unless its lots of bigger smears or super overhanging with big feet. For now i will stick to regular solutions and katanas for outside

that guy named seb wrote:

To revive a dead thread, has anyone been trying these shoes outdoors? I love my solutions but the toe patch is always pealing off on me from sharp toe hooks outdoors, I read the top rubber is thin but it goes waaay higher up the shoe. Is it too fragile of a shoe for what I want it for? 

I've used both pretty extensively outdoors. I've had a completely different experience than Alex with the Solution Comp. Amazing all around sport climbing and bouldering shoe. It's worked great for me on vertical granite, just past vert limestone, steep sport on various stone, and granite bouldering. I've not really done any toe hook intensive climbs in them so I can't really speak to that, but the only area of the rand that shows any peeling is around the big toe knuckle, where the rand and toe patch overlap. A little preemptive supergluing has kept that in check.

The Theory has become my go to bouldering shoe. Worked great for a long trip in the Buttermilks on everything I climbed on. Holds an edge well but is super sensitive and smears super well. The rubber on top is holding up super well after a decent amount of toe hooking, so no issue there. It is soft though, so for some toe hooks/cams I prefer a stiffer shoe like the Skwama.

I wear the Solution Comp and the Theory .5 size smaller than the regular Solution. (I measure around 42 and wear a 38.5 in the Comp/Theory).

X C wrote:

I've used both pretty extensively outdoors. I've had a completely different experience than Alex with the Solution Comp. Amazing all around sport climbing and bouldering shoe. It's worked great for me on vertical granite, just past vert limestone, steep sport on various stone, and granite bouldering. I've not really done any toe hook intensive climbs in them so I can't really speak to that, but the only area of the rand that shows any peeling is around the big toe knuckle, where the rand and toe patch overlap. A little preemptive supergluing has kept that in check.

The Theory has become my go to bouldering shoe. Worked great for a long trip in the Buttermilks on everything I climbed on. Holds an edge well but is super sensitive and smears super well. The rubber on top is holding up super well after a decent amount of toe hooking, so no issue there. It is soft though, so for some toe hooks/cams I prefer a stiffer shoe like the Skwama.

I wear the Solution Comp and the Theory .5 size smaller than the regular Solution. (I measure around 42 and wear a 38.5 in the Comp/Theory).

I have a similar experience outdoors as well. LS Theory is the perfect outdoor bouldering shoe. The shoe directs a lot of power to the big toe, and the smearing is better than any other shoe out there. I would not use these if you are doing any techy vertical climbing though, but for the majority of hard overhanging boulders, it's perfect. The only knock I have on it is that the no-edge on the sole doesn't connect to the toe-patch....the exposed edge can catch and peel off if you do some hard toe scums, but nothing that super glue can't fix. Also, because the toepatch is so thin, some sharp toe hooks hurt like hell, but this is quite rare.

I size the Theory 1.5 down from Solutions, which I size 2 sizes down from street shoe (if I still wore them anyway), but that might be a bad comparison because Solutions don't fit me that well (super painful in toebox when sized smaller). 40 Theory and 10 USM (43-43.5 by most charts).

Rocco wrote: I've been wearing the Solution Comp for about two weeks now. I ended up with the same size as the OG Solution (39.5). They do feel a bit lower volume at first, but break in much more quickly because they are much softer. They actually feel very much like a Python or Skwama in the midsole, but with Solution fit and performance (pointy toe). The rubber on top of the shoe is very thin, soft, and sticky. Toe hooking is great. My one big question mark is heel hooking performance. The heel is much lower volume than the OG Solution, and it sits lower on my achilles. I haven't had a chance to pull hard on the heel yet, but the fit is questionable for my foot shape. For reference the old molded heel fits me perfectly. I think these will now fill the role of my all around do everything shoe, as they are a good middle ground between my OG Solutions and Dragos.

As far as the Theory goes, it's my understanding that they won't be released until mid May at the earliest. Maybe some places are doing pre-sale?
I did get to try on a sample, and for a super performance fit I would go a half size down from my Solutions (39). At that size it feels like a painted on rubber sock. For some more comfort the same size as the Solution would work. I don't think this one is going to stretch much, since it is almost entirely rubber. The forefoot is a bit wider than the Solution, it fits a bit more like the Futura, but is much much softer. I really can't wait to climb in this one, it is such a badass shoe.
For reference I wear (performance fit) 39 Drago, 39.5 Instinct VSR, 38.5 Skwama, 39.5 Solution, 39.5 Solution Comp, 38.5 old Python, 8.5 Unparallel VIM. Half size up in each for "comfy". Street is 43 Boulder X, 8.5/9 Evolv Rebel, 42.5 Sportiva runners.
Hope this helps some.

Does the solution comp stretch? if it does, by how much do you feel? I am about similar street shoe (9.5US, 42.5eu) and looking either 39.5 or 40 solution comp... with 39.5 the toe curled a bit more that I feel if the shoe does not stretch (length wise), it will be hard to do smear/ stand on slope/volume. Surprisingly, I could not even fit 39.5 in OG solution though...maybe bc the OG solution is stiffer...

Any feedback would be appreciated!