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Finger pain days after climbing?

Original Post
Addison Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0
So I climb primarily inside bouldering twice a week. I notice that my hands don’t directly hurt afterwards but even multiple days after I climb when I press down on the bottom of my finger right where it connects to the palm it hurts pretty bad. It’s primarily in my ring finger and middle finger but worse in my ring finger. I don’t think it’s a tendon issue because I’ve had a tendon injury before. It feels like it’s in the bone and I’ve noticed it seems like it’s getting a little worse. Has anyone experienced this? It’s not like preventing me from climbing but it’s definitely uncomfortable on the wall. null
Blake Bolton · · Boise · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

This sounds exactly like an a2 pulley injury even if it's mild.

Brandon Fields · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 5

100% an A2 pulley injury. You’ll want to treat it differently depending on how severe it is. The main thing to start is don’t even think about full crimping with that hand for at least 6 weeks. Trust me, you don’t want to make it worse. If you climb below your max with an open hand grip, you should be fine until it’s healed.

There are all sorts of recovery protocols all over the place for pulley injuries. Start researching and decide how you want to approach it, but if you only do one thing, just don’t full crimp on it under any circumstances. I’ve had 3 A2 tears of differing severity and I promise you that crimping now is not worth adding 1000% more pain and 8 extra weeks of recovery to it.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

A doctor will give you a better diagnosis than a climber.

Addison Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0
Brandon Fields wrote: 100% an A2 pulley injury. You’ll want to treat it differently depending on how severe it is. The main thing to start is don’t even think about full crimping with that hand for at least 6 weeks. Trust me, you don’t want to make it worse. If you climb below your max with an open hand grip, you should be fine until it’s healed.

There are all sorts of recovery protocols all over the place for pulley injuries. Start researching and decide how you want to approach it, but if you only do one thing, just don’t full crimp on it under any circumstances. I’ve had 3 A2 tears of differing severity and I promise you that crimping now is not worth adding 1000% more pain and 8 extra weeks of recovery to it.

Hmm that’s interesting, That’s what’s weird is I don’t have a ton of pain it’s just like an extreme soreness. I primarily climb crimp routes those are my favorite style I guess I’ll have to trim back a little bit on them. 

I’ll do some more research on it but it’s good to know because when you google it you get like 100 different non climber related answers. 
Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,253

Definitely an A2 pulley injury. This two-part series described pulleys and injuries. Part 1 and part 2. I'm 3.5 weeks into a pretty rough A2 pulley injury from far too much Moonboarding this winter. It sucks. Got a bit easier on that finger for a while....take it seriously now before it's too much. I've been following the Esther Smith "Healing Nagging Finger Injuries" advice with rice bucket exercises and hangboarding. Definitely worth a shot.
I also have ordered a SPOrt thermoplastic pulley ring to help support the pulley during climbing. I have yet to try it though.
Good luck. 

Addison Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0
Jason Halladay wrote: Definitely an A2 pulley injury. This two-part series described pulleys and injuries. Part 1 and part 2. I'm 3.5 weeks into a pretty rough A2 pulley injury from far too much Moonboarding this winter. It sucks. Got a bit easier on that finger for a while....take it seriously now before it's too much. I've been following the Esther Smith "Healing Nagging Finger Injuries" advice with rice bucket exercises and hangboarding. Definitely worth a shot.
I also have ordered a SPOrt thermoplastic pulley ring to help support the pulley during climbing. I have yet to try it though.
Good luck. 

Thanks so much I appreciate it. I’ve decided to take off two weeks because of a trip I have planned so it won’t be too hard and I’m gonna tape it for the next couple months while I’m climbing. Hopefully thatll heal it. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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