Five Ten Approach Pros

The Approach Pro's were my favorite shoe to climb easy terrain in, their lower profile design performed better for me than the traditional guide tennies. Anyone have first hand experience with similar shoes. Black Diamond came out with something recently that looks similar, blackdiamondequipment.com/e…  Unfortunately it doesn't look like Unparallel Sports revamped the Approach Pro like they did many other five ten models. The Evolv Cruzers, though they look similar do not perform good enough to fit what I want.

If the cruzers do not perform well enough the BD’s definitely will not. Very soft and not great for technical climbing. Maybe check out some TX’s?

The approach pros were the best approach shoe! I didn't find out about them until they were on clearance and didn't realize they were on clearance because they were discontinued. I guess I'll live with only ever having one pair of them. I have seen a few in the wild in the last couple months...even a brand new one or 2. When I ask the wearer about them, one knew and stocked up. The other one had no idea and just found it cheap on eBay.

To answer your question I'm still trying to find a replacement approach shoe.

I usually wear tx2s although I'm just not a big fan of the la sportiva brand it's hard to argue the tx model. My favorite is the tx3 but I refuse to buy the hideous orange color so I'm stuck with the 2s for now. I brought a brand new pair of 2s to Patagonia with me and blew a hole at the pinky toe in under 2 weeks on granite.

I was having some ankle problems last summer and thinking of trying the high tops (which are luckily not a ridiculous color) to help with the support but then that's not the type of shoe you are looking for.

Try the 3s. They are a little heavier but they are probably the best approach shoe on the market that I have found. You just might have to spray paint them black though...

Gotta agree about the Urban Approach Pros; my all time favorite approach shoe.  Wore out my last pair but luckily found a pair on ebay...haven't found a substitute yet other than the original guide tennies...C4 rubber is the best!

I use the five tennie for routesetting and I really like them. They kinda look like the approach pro 

I disagree with the tennie....quite possibly worst approach shoe I have purchased. They are basically a street shoe for climbers so you can still let everyone know you're a climber while walking around boulder. They fit horrible, climb like crap, and have poor durability. In my experience I can't recommend them

Scarpa zen pro is a great shoe.

Thomas Gilmore wrote: The approach pros were the best approach shoe! I didn't find out about them until they were on clearance and didn't realize they were on clearance because they were discontinued. I guess I'll live with only ever having one pair of them. I have seen a few in the wild in the last couple months...even a brand new one or 2. When I ask the wearer about them, one knew and stocked up. The other one had no idea and just found it cheap on eBay.

To answer your question I'm still trying to find a replacement approach shoe.

I usually wear tx2s although I'm just not a big fan of the la sportiva brand it's hard to argue the tx model. My favorite is the tx3 but I refuse to buy the hideous orange color so I'm stuck with the 2s for now. I brought a brand new pair of 2s to Patagonia with me and blew a hole at the pinky toe in under 2 weeks on granite.

I was having some ankle problems last summer and thinking of trying the high tops (which are luckily not a ridiculous color) to help with the support but then that's not the type of shoe you are looking for.

Try the 3s. They are a little heavier but they are probably the best approach shoe on the market that I have found. You just might have to spray paint them black though...

The TX3’s are now available in black. At least the men’s are. 

I really liked the urban approach pro because they were feather light and you hardly noticed they were on your harness for multipitch with a walk off. Plus the thin fabric heel folded against your body in chimneys etc.  
Anyone know about a current product that fits the bill for lightweight, compact and decently built? I’m not too concerned for climbing ability or comfort (think walk offs descents in Yosemite) 

Lena chita wrote:

The TX3’s are now available in black. At least the men’s are. 

Hallelujah! But! Is that mesh or leather? I want the mesh...

Thomas Gilmore wrote:

Hallelujah! But! Is that mesh or leather? I want the mesh...

Leather. Sorry! I wanted leather specifically. The mesh is useless around here. If you want dry feet, that is...

Are the leathers tx4s? But hopefully this is a sign that a different color will follow in the meshs. What's aggravating is they have 4 or 5 different colors available in Europe but they give us neon orange...

Thomas Gilmore wrote: Are the leathers tx4s? But hopefully this is a sign that a different color will follow in the meshs. What's aggravating is they have 4 or 5 different colors available in Europe but they give us neon orange...

My bad, those are TX2's not TX3's. Brain fart!

But yeah, we bought ours in December in a La Sportiva store in Italy, so they might be new/coming to US soon, hopefully. not a big fan of neon-colored footwear, myself.

You bought them in Europe! That's cheating! I would have taken a pair ;)

Loved the Approach Pros, and bought them a week before the outlet closed in CA (along with Dragons). They sold them for a while on Bananafingers post-Adidas-takeover, but wouldn’t ship them to US.
Currently elongating their life by alternating them with Evolv Rebels, which I’ve been happy with. A little heavier than the Pro’s, but durable, sticky, and great for street shoe use also. I put them through the wringer consistently when I’m too lazy to strap the climbing shoes on...heel hooks, toe hooks, etc, they’ve held up well. Only downside to them is the pull strap stitching rips easily, and they get uncomfortable on long approaches. Most other approach shoes are too bulky for me or look hideous. 

https://www.sportiva.com/men-s/men-s-footwear/tx-guide.html

And the plot thickens...still gonna need a little sharpie on those

They tx3s are no longer on their EU site (which IIRC they were about 2 months ago) but look at all the colorways just in the tx2! I remember seeing about 5 colorways for the tx3. Granted most of them were neon, there was at least a black and dark blue option...

climber pat wrote: Scarpa zen pro is a great shoe.

I was looking at these in a local store, looked good. How do they climb? Have you stood in aiders in them? I have the Scarpa Crux now and they are super sticky but hurt a bit much when in aiders.

Burnin Bob wrote:

I was looking at these in a local store, looked good. How do they climb? Have you stood in aiders in them? I have the Scarpa Crux now and they are super sticky but hurt a bit much when in aiders.

They have a stiffer sole than most shoes which I really appreciate for long rocky approaches.  I hate soft soled approach shoes as I feel every rock on the approach.  They boulder over approach obstacles fine but I would not say they climb well.  Their friction is ok to good for a hiking shoe, you would have to tighten them down pretty well for edging.  I would rather just put on climbing shoes at that point.    I don't aid climb but the soles are pretty stiff so I think they would be better than average for standing in aiders.  

These things are going fast! Initial thoughts are perfect approach shoe. Give me a few weeks to breaks em in and I'll report back.


Here's 2 months on the tx2...

These things are going fast! Initial thoughts are perfect approach shoe. Give me a few weeks to breaks em in and I'll report back.

Not really perfect. They look fine for walking or running on a trail to get to the rock but the second you step on rock and try to edge, the EVA midsole (that fat yellow marshmallow) will completely collapse.  

The TX 2 is nice and light for getting off a multipitch and not for everyday use- try the TX 4 which has a climbing zone , no EVA foam anywhere near the front of the shoe and is pretty durable.

On another note; I sent my old Sportiva Xplorers to the Rubber room in Bishop and they were nice enough to resole them with TC Pro rubber (XS Edge) and crosshatched a nice waffle pattern in them.  I've climbed many moderate pitches, bouldered, soloed and sequenced while route setting in them.  If you have a favorite pair of approach shoes that you actually climb in (not trail runners) that are getting thin in the sole, give the rubber room a call- they would be able to tell you if this would work on your shoe.