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Most classic boulder problem of each grade in the country
Kole H wrote: I enjoyed it and it is a beautiful piece of stone but the second half kinda just isn't there. You can finish about 4 different ways at the same difficulty. Super direct, direct-ish, on the feature, to the left of the feature..... |
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V5/V6 Air Wolf Indian creek I’d like to remind everyone that just because it’s high doesn’t make it good. I’d chose Ironman I’ve Jedi mind trick. However I realize air wolf is high |
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Fort Rosstafarian V6 has to be up there — amazing location, fun and big moves, and tall but not terrifying. What a beauty. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105735860/fort-rosstafarian RE: Iron Man Traverse — Come on, we’re giving a traverse the “best” title? That’s crazy talk. Jedi Mind Tricks is right there in the Pollen Grains; even Jim (LCC) and Crimp/Slap/Throw (Leavenworth) are better rock climbs. |
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In terms of V4s in Buttermilk Country: Green Hornet > Jedi Mind Tricks > Iron Man. Also, Moonshine Roof has to be a contender for best V4 |
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If you climbing dorks haven't seen this list yet, it's worth a read: https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/top-100-boulders-us This one is for V double digit boulders. There's supposedly a V single digit list in the works, but isn't currently published. The author (Eric Jerome) has a "Quest for the Best" YouTube series that is entertaining. |
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Look for any that John Gill put up. . . |
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There has to be a gunks problem in there somewhere. Id vote Andrew at the classic v4 but I haven’t climbed the other stuff so I don’t quite know. |
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I’m not much into bouldering these days but this list looks fun, I’ll chime in, although I’m biased to the SW + Hueco. V0- SW Arete Grandma Peabody @ Buttermilks, cause it’s tall !! V1- Coyote Corner @ Jtree, it’s tall and fun. V2- Ghetto Simulator @ Hueco, long and a safe, angled landing. Great climb for endurance. V3- Tough one! Is it Slashface @ Jtree, Act of Contrition @ Jtree (used to be V0R in the old Miramontes book, Lol), or Once Upon a Time @ Yose Valley. Hmmm… V4- Stem Gem @ Jtree, no other prob like it, totally worth the quarter size flappers on the palms of my hands, proud! V5- Blue Suede Shoes @ Yose Valley, for its friction goodness. V6-V7- Chilli Sauce @ Jtree & Bloodline @ Hueco (although I haven’t sent either) |
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V1-Zig Zag Crack V2- white Rasta or Ghetto Simulator V3- slashface or Bumboy V4- overlooked or mortal Kombat or Kobra khan V5- golden shower or the kind V6- see spot run or Wills Of fire V7- Tommy’s arete or Tennessee thong V8 and up- haven’t touched it yet |
JCM wrote: That list is out of date. Here's the updated list: I think the criteria he uses for a 5 star boulder are quite good. Not to mention the list is full of great climbs to aspire to. |
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V2 no one gets out of here alive, Hueco Tanks |
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Three pigs at stoney is kind of meh for a V0 but The Crack at Stoney post break is one of the best V4's around imo. |
Woolly Mammut wrote: The Crack is a classic, I'll give it that, but it's eroded/broken beyond comprehension. Maybe a long time ago it was good, but it has definitely lost its pizzazz, like most things at stoney point... I'll submit Super Mario at LRC for the v4, much bettet than iron man traverse but it is also lind of a traverse and maybe a bit contrived. |
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for V0 there's really nothing that compares to Heavenly Path imo. |
randy baum wrote: I’m a biased SLC local but I think the Wind Below is so deserving of the V7 slot. PERFECT. Wills afire is good, Vertical Ice might also contend |
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There’s got to be a better V4 than Iron Man Traverse Baby Face V7 - it the most classic V7 I’ve ever climbed and is Verm’s standard for the grade |
Amanda Smith wrote: Tequila Sunset in LCC is definitely better. I would put that up there as the best V4 I know of. |
CrimpDaddy WesP wrote: I'd agree with Overlooked V4 in Pawtuckaway, and suggest Deception V7 at Stonefort, and The Shield V12 at Stonefort as well. So difficult to decide! I def don't climb this hard but being a climbing nErD I'd also suggest Hypnotized Minds for V16 because of its notoriety. I'd go T thong over deception. |
Eric Chabot wrote: Second this, but I think it’s called nobody here gets out alive. |
