Mountain Project Logo

Best carabiner for racking nuts?

Original Post
Michael Atlas · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85

Looking for lightweight and snag free.  

Rick L · · Medford, OR · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 50

Just get a key nose or a hood wire, after that its whatever is your personal preference and on clearance lol

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916

I've found ovals rack nuts the best for me with less chance of bunching up and popping out when I take the biner on or off my gear loop.

I prefer the DMM Perfecto 50g or the Mad Rock Oval Tech Straight 53g for a cheaper alt

Mark A · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 96

Camp Dyon gets a vote from me but not a strong preference, as Rick says any key nose or hood would be good.  Though sometimes the hook has also prevented a dropped nut, so you can argue against them too.

Paul Morrison · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 55

Ovals, indeed. Good way to use those bootied bail biners.

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, CA · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 194
Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916
Mark A wrote: Though sometimes the hook has also prevented a dropped nut, so you can argue against them too.

I have seen much more likelihood that when a nut will get stuck in the hook it will prevent the gate from closing properly and increasing the chance of having other nuts fall out as the biner gets jostled around on the harness. 

Exiled Michigander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 252
Mark A · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 96
kevin deweese wrote:

I have seen much more likelihood that when a nut will get stuck in the hook it will prevent the gate from closing properly and increasing the chance of having other nuts fall out as the biner gets jostled around on the harness. 

true enough

Michael S · · Somewhere, USA · Joined May 2019 · Points: 25

I don't like pure ovals or snag free biners!  You can drop multiple nuts with a snag free gate but the nose catches them from slipping off.

I use the BD light D... When you flip the nuts around I like to be able to "catch" the one I want in the corner. If it's a true oval the are hard to hold onto the one I want when I'm  pumped and if it's any more of a pear shape it gets clunky flipping them around. 

Jeremy Bauman · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,047

One you don’t mind leaving behind 

Hson P · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 54
Shawn Adrian wrote: I really like these ovals:

https://www.backcountry.com/mad-rock-oval-tech-straight-gate-carabiner?skid=MRC0108-ONECOL-ONESIZ&ti=U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM6T3ZhbCBUZWNoIFN0cmFpZ2h0IEdhdGUgQ2FyYWJpbmVyICgzKToxOjE6T3ZhbCBUZWNoIFN0cmFpZ2h0IEdhdGUgQ2FyYWJpbmVyICgzKQ==

Seconded. Lightweight, good size, nice gate action. Only downside with ovals is it’s hard to know which way the gate will open. 

Brandon Fields · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 5

Another vote for the DMM perfecto.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
Hson P wrote:

...Only downside with ovals is it’s hard to know which way the gate will open. 

Gates always open in   ;)

Chris K · · Clemson, SC · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 136

not sure I would really want to rack my nuts with a carabiner... but if I had to, I'd go with the biggest biner to rack myself with? 

Stu L · · Washington, DC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

I use Petzl ange and I love it. My partner uses spirit bent gates and those are great too. 

Christian Hesch · · Morro Bay · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 55

I bought about 10-12 Ange L and S biners, replaced all of my nut biners with them, love em! I tend towards the S, and split sets (as mentioned above), say wallnuts 1-6 on one, then 7-13 on the other. Seems the safest biner out there to keep the rest of them locked back in when you're unleashing the nut you just set... YMMV

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

Any notch free full sized oval biner for me. I personally have a bunch of Petzl ovals I use for top roping and for carrying nuts that have never let me down. The new BD ovals with a regular gate that are notchless are nice too. Fucking hate any D shaped biner for racking nuts. Its stupid to even argue about it.

The Mad Rock are just a smidge too small to fit a 5-11 size set of stoppers.  I carry three biners of stoppers on a long route, or one I know eats stoppers...#4-#8 / #9-#11 and #7 - #11 DMM Offsets.

Eli 0 · · northeast · Joined May 2016 · Points: 5
Hson P wrote:

Only downside with ovals is it’s hard to know which way the gate will open. 

Put a little piece of tape (or some other marking) on the non-hinge end of the gate.


I use the DMM ovals. They are big and snag-free, but a bit on the heavy side. The BD wiregate ovals are nice and light, but have a notched nose.
Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada and Apple… · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 146
My Cal At Last wrote: Looking for lightweight and snag free.  
Yep.
You'd never want one that would snag on your nuts.
Sam Skovgaard · · Port Angeles, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 208

BD key lock ovals, they'll have you making your "O" face

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Best carabiner for racking nuts?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.