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Christian Latuszek
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Feb 12, 2020
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Gaylord, MI
· Joined Jan 2019
· Points: 4
Some friends and I are planning a spring break trip (2/28-3/7) to climb sport at the New. We are mostly low 5.10 climbers and looking for some local beta on approaches/climbs/food/general information that may be helpful for first time visitors to the area!
I have a few of the classics on my tick list, but what climbs should we really try and go for considering the weather may be wishy-washy most of the time we are there? Thanks!
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Mark Paulson
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Feb 12, 2020
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Raleigh, NC
· Joined Sep 2010
· Points: 141
Go to Waterstone and get the guidebook. Not only are you supporting the local economy, but you won't be tethered to MP. I can't tell you how many times I've talked to people about this-or-that amazing line, and they've had no idea what I was talking about because it wasn't on MP.
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frank minunni
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Feb 12, 2020
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 95
Mark Paulson wrote: Go to Waterstone and get the guidebook. Not only are you supporting the local economy, but you won't be tethered to MP. I can't tell you how many times I've talked to people about this-or-that amazing line, and they've had no idea what I was talking about because it wasn't on MP. Good advice! Support the locals. I also see guidebooks like most people see T-shirts. They're souvenirs. I have a shit ton of them.
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Matt Thomsen
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Feb 12, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 263
Are you looking to sport climb or trad climb?
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C. Seaton
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Feb 12, 2020
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SLC, UT
· Joined Nov 2013
· Points: 0
AAC has good camping accommodations with showers (if you do that sort of thing) and is close to some good bouldering (highly recommend picking up the NRG guide book). Food: Secret Sandwich Society, Pies and Pints, and Tudor's Biscuit World (a West Virginia delicacy)
Bad weather days - you can always climb at the Junkyard.
As per previous recommendations, pick up the New River Rock guidebooks from Waterstone. The shop employees can answer any questions and point you in the right direction to find some climbs in your range as well.
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Russ Keane
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Feb 12, 2020
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Salt Lake
· Joined Feb 2013
· Points: 392
Can't go wrong. No areas are crappy, and no areas stand out drastically compared to others. Each area will have a bunch of awesome climbs, and even the zero-star or one-star routes will be great. There are thousands of routes within a few miles of town. Go and explore. Food is food- There's a grocery store and a few restaurants. You'll be so jazzed and tired you'll just be eating something and trying to get some sleep for the next day.
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nowhere
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Feb 12, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2016
· Points: 0
Bring a stick clip.
Orange Oswald at summersville lake is probably the highest concentration of quality 5.10s, and it gets plenty of sun. If you go there definitely walk over and check out the coliseum. It’s all 12 and up in there but it’s One of the coolest walls I’ve ever seen. Also “satisfaction guaranteed”may be The best 11a around.
Flight of the Gumby is a really classic 5.9 at kaymoor, don’t remember if there are other good 10s there.
I like the aac campground.
Secret sandwich society, pies and pints (really good wings) and the Thai place by the aac campground are all very good.
Fun rest day activity: drive down into the gorge and over the old bridge at the bottom. Swim in the river if it’s warm enough.
Have fun the new is amazing.
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Christian Latuszek
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Feb 12, 2020
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Gaylord, MI
· Joined Jan 2019
· Points: 4
Matt Thomsen wrote: Are you looking to sport climb or trad climb? Sport climb! Thanks all for the info, we will definitely have to stop at the local sport shop and check out as many different areas as possible. Cheers!
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