Tyler Nelson's Simplest Finger Training Program? Any experience?

Has anyone tried this program: https://www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/ It seems like it is very well researched. What's everyone's opinion on it?

Richard R wrote: TLDR: good if you haven’t hangboarded a lot before to prep for a harder routine; also I would do it if I were traveling with only a flash board or my gym didn’t have a pulley setup. But others may have tried it for more time and have other opinions. The guy who wrote it definitely knows his stuff.

I did it for most of the fall. It seemed to work pretty well - I got somewhat better at crimping, probably mostly through neuromuscular adaptations. It definitely prepared me well for more serious hangboarding - I’m glad I did it first but now I’m doing the intermediate rock climber’s training manual plan, which is more repeater-focused.

The pros are: simplicity. No messing with weights; you can do it without a timer if you need to. Good for a home setup or travel, maybe. The cons: it’s hard to track progression, and I think it’s hard to guarantee “100% effort” with the recruitment pulls. I’d feel like I was pulling hard, but that could have varied 5 or 10 pounds day over day and had a lot to do with my body positioning. Using weight added or removed seems like a better way to make sure you’re doing the same stimulus every day.  Also, the total time under tension is not that high for a set of the long hangs, and if you happen to have a hangboard with sharp edges (like the Eva Lopez one especially), doing a single 30 second hang is really painful. Now that I’ve switched to more sets of repeaters, unscientifically my forearms feel much more tired after each session and the quality of effort seems higher.

Do repeaters help with endurance?

Richard R wrote: Folks say that they might help a little with power-endurance, but not as much as dedicated power endurance drills. And they don’t do much for long-term endurance. Most resources say that max hangs produce neuromuscular adaptations and repeaters produce hypertrophy, both of which are mostly good for finger strength.

Ok, thanks!

This to me doesn't seem like the simplest hangboard protocol but I am sure anything you stick with consistently will deliver some noticeable results. If I was going for the simplest protocol and the one I use because I don't like to overthink, it would be Steve Bechtel's 3-6-9 Protocol.  https://www.climbing.com/skills/training-hangboard-ladders-for-finger-strength/

Seth Bleazard wrote:

Do repeaters help with endurance?

To a degree, yes, but not in the same ways that 4x4's or ARCing would.