Best Climbing.... In Ohio?

What's your favorite place to climb in Ohio.  Sport, Trad, or boulder.   Just has to be in Ohio.   We have put quite a bit of work into Marne Rd and it's turned out to be a pretty fun crag.   (Below is 65 ft 11d I just bolted called Broken Dreams)   On another note,  anyone know of any potential rock?  

 

That looks pretty nice man! I have only climbed at the Mad and that reservoir wall at Eden Park in Cincy--the Mad is a fun little day trip if you are close but would say that other midwestern crags would be preferable. The rock at the Mad seems to seep quite a bit and is pretty slippery (e.g. my footwork is shit). Fun bouldering at the Mad though!

That Looks fun! I'd say the bouldering along Chippewa Creek in the Brecksville Reservation gets my vote for the best. Rock quality is good (sometimes excellent) and there's a wide variety of boulder problems in a beautiful setting. I have a soft spot for the Logtown quarry in Lisbon; first place I climbed on rock; but I wouldn't rank it very high lol.

There's some visible rock along I-77 south of New Philadelphia that always catches my eye, could be worth some 'shwacking! 

Judson Smith wrote: That Looks fun! I'd say the bouldering along Chippewa Creek in the Brecksville Reservation gets my vote for the best. Rock quality is good (sometimes excellent) and there's a wide variety of boulder problems in a beautiful setting. I have a soft spot for the Logtown quarry in Lisbon; first place I climbed on rock; but I wouldn't rank it very high lol.

There's some visible rock along I-77 south of New Philadelphia that always catches my eye, could be worth some 'shwacking! 

GPS coordinates?

Athens and Brecksville are the only areas that I’ve been to with concentrated quality bp’s. Many problems at each location would be 4 or 5 stars at most areas (Birds Nest and Big Mamas in Athens and Racist Arete in Brecksville come to mind). There are also quality boulders on private property in Amish country that are worth investigating if you’re stuck in the area....otherwise just go to WV or PA for bouldering worth driving a few hours to. 

J T wrote: Athens and Brecksville are the only areas that I’ve been to with concentrated quality bp’s. Many problems at each location would be 4 or 5 stars at most areas (Birds Nest and Big Mamas in Athens and Racist Arete in Brecksville come to mind). There are also quality boulders on private property in Amish country that are worth investigating if you’re stuck in the area....otherwise just go to WV or PA for bouldering worth driving a few hours to. 

What's your preferred bouldering spot in PA? Preferably close to the Ohio border.

I was always told by my bud's in Delaware that the best climbing in Ohio was in Kentucky.

E K wrote:

What's your preferred bouldering spot in PA? Preferably close to the Ohio border.

Depends on your style, Governors Dick/Stable is my favorite. Check out the New Frontier (or something along those lines) movie that features all PA bouldering. Its on youtube.

Buck Rio wrote: I was always told by my bud's in Delaware that the best climbing in Ohio was in Kentucky.

Good one

J T wrote:

Good one

You probably heard that one before ;-)

Lake Vesuvius has some decent climbing! 

Where is this Ohio you speak of?

Matt Pierce wrote: Where is this Ohio you speak of?

Near Zanesville.

I did a few routes down by Athens, with the Ohio University Alpine Club. I can't remember the name of the crag. 

C. Seaton wrote: Lake Vesuvius has some decent climbing! 

Seconded, still not as concentrated of quality as in Athens or Brecksville IMO but pretty solid nonetheless.

Chris Owen wrote: I did a few routes down by Athens, with the Ohio University Alpine Club. I can't remember the name of the crag. 

Not worth it, NRG is only 2 more hours and gets infinite more stars than any roped climbing around Athens....Personally I don't think any roped climbing in Hocking, Athens, or SE Ohio is any better than Whipps Ledges or the quarry. If it were me and I only had a day to climb, and really wanted to get down on ropes, I would just go to VA in Cbus. 

I also get wanted to climb outside and having a time crunch but my personal opinion. If you are going to rope climb in SE or SW Ohio, wake up a couple hours earlier and make to a WORLD CLASS destination like the NRG or the RRG. Bouldering offers many more quality options in Ohio and close to the borders (of PA and WV).

J T wrote:

Not worth it, NRG is only 2 more hours and gets infinite more stars than any roped climbing around Athens....Personally I don't think any roped climbing in Hocking, Athens, or SE Ohio is any better than Whipps Ledges or the quarry. If it were me and I only had a day to climb, and really wanted to get down on ropes, I would just go to VA in Cbus. 

I also get wanted to climb outside and having a time crunch but my personal opinion. If you are going to rope climb in SE or SW Ohio, wake up a couple hours earlier and make to a WORLD CLASS destination like the NRG or the RRG. Bouldering offers many more quality options in Ohio and close to the borders (of PA and WV).

I spend spring and fall travelling to the gorge.  It's nice to have something close by that I can do after work or for a 1/2 day and still be home by dinner. 

J T wrote:

Not worth it, NRG is only 2 more hours and gets infinite more stars than any roped climbing around Athens....Personally I don't think any roped climbing in Hocking, Athens, or SE Ohio is any better than Whipps Ledges or the quarry. If it were me and I only had a day to climb, and really wanted to get down on ropes, I would just go to VA in Cbus. 

I also get wanted to climb outside and having a time crunch but my personal opinion. If you are going to rope climb in SE or SW Ohio, wake up a couple hours earlier and make to a WORLD CLASS destination like the NRG or the RRG. Bouldering offers many more quality options in Ohio and close to the borders (of PA and WV).

Makes sense. Bear in mind I was there in 1981.

climb2core wrote:

I spend spring and fall travelling to the gorge.  It's nice to have something close by that I can do after work or for a 1/2 day and still be home by dinner. 

Totally understand the after work thing. I was speaking only for full day trips