Shoulder Stretches and Work Outs

As I continue to train and push my grade I am continually encountering issues with my shoulders. I am experiencing impingement issues in both my left and right shoulder at the moment. I believe this is a result of not balancing my lifting and focusing too much on chest and arms. Does anyone have any good stretches they recommend to keep there shoulders and back balanced? I was also wondering what weight lifting exercises you use to build back and shoulder strength to help prevent the imbalance, thanks.

Shoulder Press, Bench Press, and I/Y/T

Check climbing posture if youre doing a lot of overhang.  Lacrosse ball and foam roller will become your friends.

I was having similar issues for a while.  What worked for me was warming up with a resistance band before climbing/working out, I's/Y's/T's, rotator cuff exercises, lat raises and doing more "push" exercises (bench press, incline press, overhead press).  

Now that I do 1 day a week focusing solely on pushing and opposition, basically doing everything I listed above, the shoulder pains are basically gone.

See a physical therapist. They'll be able to help diagnose issues and give you some targeted exercises. Depending on state/insurance you can "self prescribe" physical therapy and see one without needing to see a doctor first. 

Crossover Symmetry has worked very well for me. https://crossoversymmetry.com

I resisted my coach friend's exhortations to do this for some time, but since getting it and putting in 10 min a few times a week for a month or so my shoulders feel great, even climbing ice and mixed 3-4 days/week this winter.

I only see a couple mentions searching the forums on MP. I think this deserves more attention for climbers given how many shoulder issues there are.  

could be an muscle imbalance, but it also could be a lot of other things. How much weight are you lifting?

I like single arm landmine presses (see eric cressey blog) for facilitating proper scap movement. TRX or ring rows with my feet elevated. Paloff press. ski jumpers for lower trap recruitment. etc....

best to see someone who knows what they are doing to see whats going on if you are in that much pain tho. I could recommend someone if you need.

+3 for  I T Y; do it standing, hinged from the hip or prone with chest on a BOSU. Light or no weight

Shoulder hand jobs - google it before you talk shit- light weight, pinch a rolled up towel between elbow and torso

If you got pain then see a PT

(ACSM CPT/ FMS level 1 cert)

Can I google shoulder hand job at work?

Tomily ma wrote: Can I google shoulder hand job at work?

I kept getting the "you've been naughty screen" when i tried too google it

Jake ES wrote: You need to be doing a ton of stability, antagonist and extension work.

Try: DB or banded IYTs, band pull aparts, wall angels, upside down KB press, body weight overhead squat, banded scapular retractions/protractions in various positions, etc...

Static stretching after climbing: doorway stretch, arm straight palm against wall, downward dog, etc... anything to open you up.

Use foam rollers and lacrosse ball for neofascist release and self massage after sessions

Follow @smashwerx on Instagram for some really cutting edge postural and stability prehab exercises

Climb on, don’t get injured (says the injured one)

Mobility before stability, strength after each

I recently had this issue.
First, ease off a bit and go to a doctor, who will likely tell you to ease off.

After easing off, mix your chest/arms workouts with tricep shrugs, reverse deltoid flies (critical), any kind of row, deadlifts, and farmers's carries.  Those will all build your upper/lower back and cure any imbalance you might have.  Deadlifts should be in every athlete's routine regardless of what they're doing.  Even if you're trying to cut/keep your weight down they'll help you get shredded.

I like IYTs with Therabands. I found a good workout on youtube for SLAP tears and rehabbing one. IYT was basically it. And rows. My back stopped popping weird and my shoulders don't hurt now.

Some exercises I include in my training are face pulls for rotator cuff prehab, scapular shrugs to help keep shoulders engaged when climbing, ring flyes for stability in wide and extended positions, and shoulder press as basic antagonist work. Also doing any exercise like push ups, pull ups, dips, etc. on rings or TRX will help build shoulder stability. 

I appreciate everyone's feedback on this. After researching some of the recommended stretches I realized I have been doing IYT's with a thera band but only once I start to have issues with the two impingement's (I am going to make it part of my regular stretching routine and consistently do them). I have also been doing shoulder hand jobs (LOL) but also with the thera band from a standing position. I am definitely going to work the IYT's in to my routine as part of strength building by doing them with rings as mentioned by Gumby the White and others. I have been curling 30lb dumbells and benching 40lb dumbbells (I do not have a bar at home and just use free weights). After reading all of the responses I realized I am really not doing anything to help build my back and shoulders.

What I have been routinely doing is hammer curls, bicep curls, bench press but with free weights, push ups, and pull ups so its not hard to see why i have been having these issues after reading everyone's responses. Keep in mind I have very little experience with traditional lifting and have only been incorporating exercises that I have learned from friends over the course of time which is my own fault for not researching more.

I am planning to add in shrugs, reverse deltoid flys, and shoulder presses since I can complete those at home with my free weights. They do have a row machine at the gym so maybe I can start mixing that in too. If there are any other exercises with free weights that are must haves in your routine please let me know. I was also wondering what everyones schedule was like as I think I might be overdoing it and not resting enough. I have basically been completing my chest and arm exercises with a 2 day break in between each session. I do climb indoors twice a week and roughly once a week outdoors. Again appreciate all the feedback.

Hand.jammin wrote:What I have been routinely doing is hammer curls, bicep curls, bench press but with free weights, push ups, and pull ups so its not hard to see why i have been having these issues after reading everyone's responses. Keep in mind I have very little experience with traditional lifting and have only been incorporating exercises that I have learned from friends over the course of time which is my own fault for not researching more.

I am planning to add in shrugs, reverse deltoid flys, and shoulder presses since I can complete those at home with my free weights. They do have a row machine at the gym so maybe I can start mixing that in too. If there are any other exercises with free weights that are must haves in your routine please let me know. I was also wondering what everyones schedule was like as I think I might be overdoing it and not resting enough. I have basically been completing my chest and arm exercises with a 2 day break in between each session. I do climb indoors twice a week and roughly once a week outdoors. Again appreciate all the feedback.

Damn BOI!!!! CURLS FOR THA GURLSSSSSSSS. 

In all seriousness tho, 30-40lbs is a lot and what exactly are curls going to translate to in climbing? If you choose to continue to do curls I'd recommend doing them against a wall and make sure your elbow doesn't move back behind your body, they shouldn't move at all actually. If they go behind your body when you curl it puts your shoulder in a forward position that could create more force or "impingement" at the front of your shoulder, my guess is this is the area that hurts.....

shrugs --> I'd suggest farmer carries over shrugs and focus on keeping your core tight. Again, what are shrugs going to do to help your climbing?

Deltoid flys put a LOT of stress at the front of the shoulder, again my guess of where it hurts. I'd recommend a bent over single arm row, or a bird dog single arm row (core and back all in one!)

Shoulder press --> i'd recommend single arm landmine press over shoulder press (see eric cressey blog).

Scheduling:

I use weights twice a week. One leg day and one upper body. I am not sure its beneficial to do more than that (depending on what your goals are). Seen more gains from hangboarding than weight training. So ask yourself what your goals are and how your training will help accomplish them.

For me:
Sat-Sun: Climb outside
Mon: either rest or legs depending on how I feel
Tues: Hang board in the morning/Boulder hard in the evening after work
Wed: if I didn't do legs Mon, then do then here or rest/mobility
Thurs: Upper body in the morning/Boulder hard or lead in the gym after work.
Friday: Rest

Gumby the White wrote:

Damn BOI!!!! CURLS FOR THA GURLSSSSSSSS. 

In all seriousness tho, 30-40lbs is a lot and what exactly are curls going to translate to in climbing? If you choose to continue to do curls I'd recommend doing them against a wall and make sure your elbow doesn't move back behind your body, they shouldn't move at all actually. If they go behind your body when you curl it puts your shoulder in a forward position that could create more force or "impingement" at the front of your shoulder, my guess is this is the area that hurts.....

shrugs --> I'd suggest farmer carries over shrugs and focus on keeping your core tight. Again, what are shrugs going to do to help your climbing?

Deltoid flys put a LOT of stress at the front of the shoulder, again my guess of where it hurts. I'd recommend a bent over single arm row, or a bird dog single arm row (core and back all in one!)

Shoulder press --> i'd recommend single arm landmine press over shoulder press (see eric cressey blog).

Scheduling:

I use weights twice a week. One leg day and one upper body. I am not sure its beneficial to do more than that (depending on what your goals are). Seen more gains from hangboarding than weight training. So ask yourself what your goals are and how your training will help accomplish them.

For me:
Sat-Sun: Climb outside
Mon: either rest or legs depending on how I feel
Tues: Hang board in the morning/Boulder hard in the evening after work
Wed: if I didn't do legs Mon, then do then here or rest/mobility
Thurs: Upper body in the morning/Boulder hard or lead in the gym after work.
Friday: Rest

Well I cant have these little itty bitty titties showing when i take my shirt off at the gym to flex on all the smoking hotties **insert cringe/barf sounds**. Honestly never thought 30lb curls to be alot but I can see where you are coming from. I am going to to look into some of those alternates you provided and maybe mix up the game plan a bit. Going to be adding in a lot more rest as well as its clear I have been overdoing it. 

Grassroots Therapy’s (Utah) site has a helpful self treatment video available.

Hand.jammin wrote:

Well I cant have these little itty bitty titties showing when i take my shirt off at the gym to flex on all the smoking hotties **insert cringe/barf sounds**. Honestly never thought 30lb curls to be alot but I can see where you are coming from. I am going to to look into some of those alternates you provided and maybe mix up the game plan a bit. Going to be adding in a lot more rest as well as its clear I have been overdoing it. 

slide me a DM if ya need more info er whateva.

"You get stronger when you rest not when you train" or whatever that phrase is. Its something like that

Hand.jammin wrote: I appreciate everyone's feedback on this. After researching some of the recommended stretches I realized I have been doing IYT's with a thera band but only once I start to have issues with the two impingement's (I am going to make it part of my regular stretching routine and consistently do them). I have also been doing shoulder hand jobs (LOL) but also with the thera band from a standing position. I am definitely going to work the IYT's in to my routine as part of strength building by doing them with rings as mentioned by Gumby the White and others. I have been curling 30lb dumbells and benching 40lb dumbbells (I do not have a bar at home and just use free weights). After reading all of the responses I realized I am really not doing anything to help build my back and shoulders.

What I have been routinely doing is hammer curls, bicep curls, bench press but with free weights, push ups, and pull ups so its not hard to see why i have been having these issues after reading everyone's responses. Keep in mind I have very little experience with traditional lifting and have only been incorporating exercises that I have learned from friends over the course of time which is my own fault for not researching more.

I am planning to add in shrugs, reverse deltoid flys, and shoulder presses since I can complete those at home with my free weights. They do have a row machine at the gym so maybe I can start mixing that in too. If there are any other exercises with free weights that are must haves in your routine please let me know. I was also wondering what everyones schedule was like as I think I might be overdoing it and not resting enough. I have basically been completing my chest and arm exercises with a 2 day break in between each session. I do climb indoors twice a week and roughly once a week outdoors. Again appreciate all the feedback.

Ok, more good information here.  Based on what you were doing I definitely think you were getting an inbalance between your front delts and chest and your upper back.  The opposite can happen to climbers who don't work their chest.  Your changes should definitely help you out.  Be careful at first though.  I'd wait for the pain to stop, and then begin to do some light back/rear shoulder exercises.  Also, when you do them, eat a little more than you would otherwise.  You're goal is to put on some muscle here, and if you're not eating enough that won't happen.  Add a chicken breast and a bagel in with whatever you're eating already, for about a week during which you can hit your new exercises twice.  That'll probably do it.

The rear delt flies will become one of your favorate exercises.  It will give your shoulders a lot more definition when seen from the side, and it's very important for stability when doing bench and other upper-body exercises.  Remember that it's not a very big muscle, so really try to focus on them to get a mind-muscle connection when your doing the movements.  And do the movement nice and slow.    

The other thing is, I wouldn't worry too much about training only for climbing related stuff.  Try to get fit in a holistic, total-body kind of way.  

And hit those deadlifts and farmer's carries!  They'll both help you carry your stuff out to the crag.

Squats are another good exercise for over-all strength and power.  But be careful that you do those, and deadlifts with proper form, or you can fuck yourself up.  There are a million youtube videos about deadlifts and squats, so check out a few of them to get the basic idea.  When done safely they'll super-charge your workouts.  That way when you invariably need to lift a boulder off a fellow climber you can do it.

I have the same issues my friend. Been going to a pt for a couple weeks. The pt gave me these exercises plus rowing machine to do.

And check out these dudes for any sports injury you ever get:  ​https://youtu.be/fpqMU88DfyE