Stretching = useless?

Outside: The Case Against Stretching.
https://www.outsideonline.com/2408467/case-against-stretching-flexibility-research

I don't know. Here is what I've seen.

When I was 21 I was in a class at school that put us through about 20-25 minutes of traditional stretches a day. This also corresponded with the fastest and least injured I ever ran. I was also 21, so this might not mean much.

My wife only climbs and does yoga and is super strong and never injured.

I never stretch before a ride but I try to afterwards. I don't know if it helps. For climbing, I absolutely love the agony of deep forearm stretches. Again, I have no evidence that it helps.

I seem to get hip flexor strains and low back pain. Stretching has never helped but very minor strength training has helped immensely.

I notice a difference between a session with stretching and without. Always stretch!

Outside Magazine is hardly a trustworthy source anymore, stretch and you will feel better + prevent injuries

If not for injury prevention, it's worth it for flexibility. 

It isn't as good to do static stretching before your workout. I use a foam roller and some dynamic stretches beforehand, then maybe do some static stretches after the workout to work on those trouble areas. I have done a lot of yoga in the past and it got me some more ROM over a long time but I would loose it quickly if I stopped going. Now with regular foam rolling I have just as much ROM if not more than before with little effort. I also use a Rolofex (cheap armaid) a few times a day on the forearms. Highly recommend trying it if you haven't yet.

Stretching relaxes the muscles which is great in the long run to build healthier muscles and flexibility.. if you do it right!!  For example, if you stretch and get limber, then try to crank on your project, it'll be too much strain on your relaxed muscles.  Instead, you want to stay "warm" and stretch after a session. 

It is the little differences - STATIC stretching before exercise has been discouraged for quite a while.

And of course, how many iReaders get to this part -

And finally, being flexible doesn’t improve your sports performance—unless you’re doing something where range of motion has a direct impact. If you’re a gymnast or a ballerina or a hockey goaltender, you’d better be flexible. Even as a cyclist, you need enough flexibility to be able to get into an aerodynamic riding position and still pedal comfortably. If you’re a runner, on the other hand, you’re highly unlikely to sustain an injury that has any connection to your inability to touch your toes. In fact, there’s some evidence that greater flexibility makes you a less efficient runner, presumably because having tight “springs” in your legs allows you to store and return more energy with each stride.

Interesting topic. I don't believe in stretching for injury prevention or to help with muscle soreness. I'm not even sure it helps make you more flexible.

Here is a link to a great article on the topic with loads of references to actual studies. Here are a couple of those relevant studies:

Effect of stretching on sport injuries
Stretching to prevent muscle soreness

sandrock wrote: Outside Magazine is hardly a trustworthy source anymore, stretch and you will feel better + prevent injuries

You're shooting the messenger. Follow the references they used for the article.

I used to be the one yelling that folks should only do dynamic range of motion stretching before exercise and static stretching after. But I eventually realized that if you have hip or hamstring flexibility issues, static stretching those areas before climbing can be beneficial to performance while you are also unlikely to load the legs in ways that risk injury or require peak strength/power that may be compromised by the stretching. Your leg flexibility is way more likely to influence your send than your leg strength. I wouldn't do static stretching before heavy squats, but I think there's little risk and perhaps a big benefit for some folks to do it before climbing. I personally cannot get my knee above my hip unless I do at least 10 minutes of static hip opening stretches. On the other hand, someone who is already super flexible or who has joint stability issues would maybe see diminishing returns on stretching. I think recommendations on stretching and exercise should be individualized, body area specific, and sport specific.

As amarius pointed out above, In the article they clearly state their point is that flexibility may not generally be an indicator of physical fitness, although it is important in specific sports (like gymnastics and not running). Climbing is definitely one of those sports. Do your stretches! 

The title/tag line of this article are rather misleading, given what the article actually says... Outside seems to be doing it a lot lately!

As others said above, range-of-motion is best for pre-workout warmup, and static stretching better reserved for the end.

And yes, I think the point about static stretching alone not giving you much is valid. In any sort of sport where flexibility is integral, the static stretching isn’t end-all, it is ALWAYS combined with strength training that builds functional flexibility, and allows you to use that full range of motion that you develop with static stretching to its‘ full extent. To put it in climbing context, if you want yo improve your high-step range, and all you do is static stretch religiously, you still won’t be able to lift that leg to the full extent that your new hip flexibility allows, if you don’t have the strength to lift it to the end of your range of motion.

Yoga is a good example of activity that combines static stretching with strength/stability. And it is why yoga seems to work for so many people. 

This thread might have more legs than religion, politics, sex offenders, and belay techniques combined.

Paul Morrison wrote: This thread might have more legs than religion, politics, sex offenders, and belay techniques combined.

ahhhh i see what you did there.....

When I was injured and thought my running career was toast a fellow trail runner told me to take up yoga. I did and within 2 months I was back running pain free. I had been out of running for two years at that point with a knee that would swell up after runs. I don't know what it is but I still have a easy 10 minute flow that I go through after my runs. It is just a routine and it seems to help because I have been 4 years injury free now. 

The older I got, the more stretching before climbing seemed to help!

I wonder how many of those "skeptical scientists" are athletes who participate (at more than an entry level) in sports where flexibility and joint mobility improves performance?  

Useless? No!
`

  Follow a life-time routine of daily Yoga. . . .
  (Anecdotally )

Lena chita wrote: To put it in climbing context, if you want yo improve your high-step range, and all you do is static stretch religiously, you still won’t be able to lift that leg to the full extent that your new hip flexibility allows, if you don’t have the strength to lift it to the end of your range of motion.

Small quip: it's unlikely you won't be able to life a leg high due to muscle weakness, as most of the muscles involved will be in a contracted position. However, you may not be able to rock you weight over the leg due to lack of strength.

In the climbing context, flexibility in itself is often enough, as it allows one to get into less taxing body positions.

Idaho Bob wrote: I wonder how many of those "skeptical scientists" are athletes who participate (at more than an entry level) in sports where flexibility and joint mobility improves performance?  

How would that help in any way? Studies are done ON athletes, not BY athletes. 

Edit to add: Personal experience and anecdotes are fine but mostly meaningless when it comes to finding the actual truth of a matter.

Vaughn wrote:

How would that help in any way? Studies are done ON athletes, not BY athletes.

They would've framed the study differently. You wouldn't believe how much personal experience influences study framing. 

You don't necessarily need to be an athlete, but working w/ certain types of athletes/sports gives you different perspective. And many good surgeons are amateur athletes precisely b/c they have a better understanding of the perspective of an athlete.