Summer Alpine Boots

What’s people’s favorite lightweight alpine boots?

Scarpa Rebel Pro

...for how high and where? 

Matt Wells wrote: ...for how high and where? 

Sierras/Rockies. Mostly for snow approaches/ lower angle ice to get to rock routes 

Scarpa Ribelle Tech

I was just doing research on some summer boots and came upon this article that reviews a bunch of lightweight mtn boots - ukclimbing.com/gear/footwea…;

the discontinued salomon x alp mountain is my fav. you can still find them on some websites for a good deal, but they arent being made anymore.

i bought a 2nd pair that have been sitting unused in my basement until my current pair finally fall apart.

La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX, they work great and I already own them so they meet all of my criteria 

ChrisMurphy wrote: La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX

definitely not a summer boot.... my feet would drown if i wore mine in the summer...

I was checking out the Scarpa Zodiac Plus yesterday at REI and although they’re not a mountaineering boot they seem stiff enough to work with my Petzl Leopard FLs. And they’re super lightweight 

For my own research, I made a google sheet with most lightweight mountaineering boots I could find, listing weight, price and a weblink. Thought it might be helpful:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1CY8IU33-2HR9L7S1jpGBIaRmh4OZnmwlqCsqrVDbpf8/

I found the Ribelle Techs to be a revelation. It feels like the bottom of a mountain boot attached to the top of a high-top sneaker. They are so very agile, which is a huge help on talus and while walking. They rock climb quite well; I've done 8 hour hikes in them, and felt good for modest amounts of steep snow and glacier walking with mountaineering crampons. I have not been on steep ice with them.

In the sub-category of summer alpine boots which can climb sustained steep ice, what are the options on the market right now?  It's really difficult to know what boots in the 500-700g weight range can actually front point, without trying a pair on in person.  With the Scarpa Rebel series being gone, and not having Trango feet, what are my options?

Scarpa Ribelle HD?  Are any of Lowa or Salewa's lightweight boots capable of front-pointing?

No one is talking about the trango. The cube or the tech. Scarpa makes a damn fine boot as does Sportiva but likely one fits way better than the other depending on your foot

Kyle Tarry wrote: In the sub-category of summer alpine boots which can climb sustained steep ice, what are the options on the market right now?  It's really difficult to know what boots in the 500-700g weight range can actually front point, without trying a pair on in person.  With the Scarpa Rebel series being gone, and not having Trango feet, what are my options?

Scarpa Ribelle HD?  Are any of Lowa or Salewa's lightweight boots capable of front-pointing?

None of the Lowa and Salewa sub 1500g (pair) boots I looked at are designed for ice according to the manufacturer (though some do take semi automatic crampons). Almost everything sub 1500g is B1/B2,  so many of them will do for steep snow, but sustained vertical ice would be a stretch. Yet, from the ones in my list these are listed as suitable/rigid enough for ice (either on the manufacturer website, or in various reviews I've looked at):

Asolo Freney XT GV 1280g $499.00 https://weighmyrack.com/MountaineeringBoot/asolo-freney-xt-gv
Mammut Nordwand Light Mid GTX 1290g $499.00 weighmyrack.com/Mountaineer…
La Sportiva Trango Tower Extreme GTX 1440g $475.00 weighmyrack.com/Mountaineer…
La Sportiva Trango Cube GTX 1420g $399.00 weighmyrack.com/Mountaineer…
Scarpa Charmoz 1540g $325.00 weighmyrack.com/Mountaineer…
Scarpa Ribelle Tech OD 1100g $539.00 weighmyrack.com/Mountaineer…
Scarpa Ribelle HD 1380g $358.95 weighmyrack.com/Mountaineer…
Scarpa Phantom Tech (new version) 1460g $699.00 https://weighmyrack.com/MountaineeringBoot/scarpa-phantom-tech

(disclaimer - I haven't tried any of them personally)

Kyle - You’re kinda lookin for a unicorn for sustained front pointing but under 700 g.  

closest compromise would be the Scarpa Charmoz or Lowa Cevedale at under 800 and doing ice fairly well.  (Hybrid crampon compatible)

Neither will work with Silvrettas tho!  ;)

Salewa Rapace, not sure what the current iteration is called. 

Thanks Doug.  I had a pair of Charmoz and didn't feel that they were stiff enough for steep terrain.  I wonder if the Ribelle HD is stiffer, might need to find some locally and try.  That Mammut boot looks really sweet also.

Light weight not withstanding, I don't think that the Phantoms are the ideal boot for summer alpine ice objectives (though that is my main boot for winter ice and mixed).  Currently using Zodiac Techs for summer alpine climbing without steep ice, they are perfect for big Cascades moderates like Torment-Forbidden or Fisher Chimneys, but not substantial enough for something like Price or N. Ridge of Baker.  Although, I think my feet were cold last time on Baker even in Phantom Guides, so maybe this whole exercise is a waste of time and the Phantoms are the right boot.   

Once upon a time there was a product available in Europe that was like a cross between an overboot and the Ribelle Tech. The idea was, you'd wear them over climbing shoes (and there was also a lined, warmer, version of some Boreal shoes then too), and they were barely stout enough to boot up snow, would take strap on crampons or others that didn't clamp on a welt (like Kahtoolas nowadays) for when that snow was frozen. Arriving at the rock, you'd stash them in your pack - minimal weight and bulk, unlike even a light boot like the Ribelle - and climb your route. No wasting time or getting cold feet changing from boots to shoes, just whip those puppies off and climb. You'd have to size your rock shoes to wear all day, but you want to do that anyway for long routes. Not suitable for any steep ice but if you were skilled at French technique they'd get you up some rowdy neve.

Kyle Tarry wrote: In the sub-category of summer alpine boots which can climb sustained steep ice, what are the options on the market right now?  It's really difficult to know what boots in the 500-700g weight range can actually front point, without trying a pair on in person.  With the Scarpa Rebel series being gone, and not having Trango feet, what are my options?

Scarpa Ribelle HD?  Are any of Lowa or Salewa's lightweight boots capable of front-pointing?

I have climbed 80° alpine ice perfectly fine with the Ribelle Tech and Irvis Hybrid crampons.  With Lynx they also climbed M6 just fine.  They are very capable boots especially for frontpointing. They don't offer much ankle support but I like it that way. 

They can get quite warm in the summer lower down and don't breath that great with the gaiter. But they pack up way smaller that taller mountain boots so I ofter just use some light trailrunners for the approach to a hut or stuff like that if it makes sense for the route. 

Ven Popov wrote: For my own research, I made a google sheet with most lightweight mountaineering boots I could find, listing weight, price and a weblink. Thought it might be helpful:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1CY8IU33-2HR9L7S1jpGBIaRmh4OZnmwlqCsqrVDbpf8/

Thanks for sharing !!!!!!