New Hiangles

Well, Adidas ruined another great. Definitely jumping ship and disappointed that one of my favorite shoes of all time is now, meh.

The good:
* Higher heel tension
* Heel cup feels really secure, a lot more rand tension but same basic fit. If you liked the old Hiangle or new Dragon this will feel solid
* Finally a metal buckle instead of that weird plastic piece of shit that was just attached to a sewn on piece of leather
* Can adjust strap many ways to take increase toe/heel tension
* Pull tabs are nicer
* It's about time to move to split sole. You can get more power and closer arch support and they seem to have accomplished this.

The bad:
* I'm not a fan of the new synthetic material. It feels almost grippy like neoprene and is the first material on any shoe to rub my feet raw
* In order to make the elastic bigger, the toe patch is now a bit smaller. I need to compare later, but its smaller than the new Dragons
* The toe box is somehow more blunt, which makes a shoe that sucked on pockets suck on them even more
* Higher volume toebox. Like, a lot higher. I have low volume feet and wear women's LS, but the men's Hiangle was always fine. I haven't and likely won't try the women's
* If you look at the photos of the inside side view, the toebox top is angled downward. So are most downturned shoes, however, it is angled much more so. When I flex my foot to toehook there isn't a flat shelf. This is one thing my friends and myself hated about the new Dragon.
* Seems to fit narrower and likely won't stretch/mold laterally.
* Why would they make them white? Worst possible color choice.

Overall I am going to send them back. I have a pair of the old, new Hiangles that are brand new and trying both on they don't feel the same. The new one is a massive step down and feels like a clunky Evolv shoe or something.

https://www.adidasoutdoor.com/five-ten-hiangle-men%27s-climbing-shoe/EPB91.html?dwvar_EPB91_color=White&cgid=men-climb-shoes#start=1

Just found out about these this morning then saw your post.

Thanks Karl, how did you find the fit compared to the hiangle smurf blues if you had a pair of those at all or just the updated grey?

The fit is not that similar IMO. The old Hiangles has some softness where they would be mega tight, but comfortable and stretch/mold. In my experience with the new dragons that never happens with the new fabric. I got my normal size and a half size up. There seems to be much more fore and midfoot volume.

I can confidently say that if you likes the old Hiangles these will disappoint you

That is a real bummer if that is the case.  Breaking in a brand new pair of the OG blue style was comical because it seemed so improbable my foot would fit. But they always ended up stretching out so perfectly. I ordered the new style in my standard size and half size up to try on and check out. I have a pretty high volume foot, especially mid and forefoot so who knows. Otherwise I guess I will try to stock up on the grey style while the are still in stock. Thanks again for the info.

This material does not really stretch. My new Dragons never quite broke in. Myself and my friends (1 sponsored climber included) absolutely hated those shoes and the new shape and the Hiangles are a very similar last.

Karl, you’re awesome. I stumbled on the new Hiangle this morning while casually browsing the site. I watched a vid where a rep introduced the new model last fall and figured we wouldn’t see the shoe hit the market for another year - the new Dragon and Grandstone were delayed months, if not a good year.

I appreciate the quick review. I was going to pull the trigger and give them a try, but I think I’m done with Five Ten at this point. Why move away from leather? All of these microfiber and knit uppers work well for athletic shoes, but are terrible for climbing shoes.

Looks like I’ll be getting another pair of Futuras or checking out some additional UP models. Maybe the LV Regulus or the TN Pro. 

Thanks dude! My parents live in Tucson so maybe you can provide me some local beta in return some day.

I tried the UP shoes and the Regulus and Regulus LV do not fit me well in the heel. The Sirius was OK, but I prefer the La Sportiva women’s models at this point. I loved my Hiangles and old Dragons.

Karl Walters wrote: Thanks dude! My parents live in Tucson so maybe you can provide me some local beta in return some day.

I tried the UP shoes and the Regulus and Regulus LV do not fit me well in the heel. The Sirius was OK, but I prefer the La Sportiva women’s models at this point. I loved my Hiangles and old Dragons.

Which LS models have you been going with? The local gear stores carry pretty terrible shoe options, so I haven’t been able to sort out whether the women’s Solution or Miura would fit my narrow heel. The Solution and Futura share the same last, but I’m not big on the molded heel. 

The women’s solution, futura, and skwama

Karl Walters wrote: The women’s solution, futura, and skwama

I went through the same non sense when Adidas bought 5.10. Although i used to wear teams and moccs...Gave up and now wear womens muiras, womens mythos, and mavrinks

I also realized that while I liked Five Ten and climbed a ton of cool and hard-for-me shit in them, I'm not missing them. Its nice to actually have a shoe last long enough to resole and not have so many f'ing QC issues to deal with.

Really pumped for the Solution Comp actually. Should be a soft version of the Solution, which fits me super well and cover most of my climbing. I have also been considering the women's Kataki for granite.

I just looked at the new Hiangles and WTF!  I understand small tweaks like heel tension and maybe more heel rubber, but don't make a new shoe.  Call it the hiangle comp or something like that.  Adidas actually dropped all of their outdoor sponsored athletes, so it isn't a surprise that they're changing all of their shoes for comp climbing.

Curious if you actually climbed in them or just tried them on?

Men Boon wrote: I just looked at the new Hiangles and WTF!  I understand small tweaks like heel tension and maybe more heel rubber, but don't make a new shoe.  Call it the hiangle comp or something like that.  Adidas actually dropped all of their outdoor sponsored athletes, so it isn't a surprise that they're changing all of their shoes for comp climbing.

They have already teased another model called the hiangle comp

They didn’t drop all of their outdoor athletes. Off the top of my head Carlo Traversi, Sasha, Kevin Jorgensen, Chris Schulte, Dave Graham, and the list goes on....

As for the shoe it’s not more indoor oriented, they just used materials that don’t seem to actually work well for climbing shoes. Their synthetic feels much more rigid and uncomfortable compared to Scarpa or Sportiva and they seem to just be designing one toebox and putting it on every shoe (Dragon, Dragon VCS, and Hiangle). The Aleon material felt better and if done right the Primeknit could have worked well. Using that on the Hiangle upper while retaining the old toebox shape woulda been great.

What size are you all getting with respect to street shoe sizing? Im tempted to take a shot on these considering the AAC discount makes them relatively cheap. Also, as far as athletes, doesent the current best female comp climber ( Janja ) still wear them? 

I have been using the old blue style hiangle in size 12 for years (loaded up cheap on those and am on my last pair). I am pretty consistent running shoe 13. Yesterday I received my order of the new hiangle blancos which I ordered in 12 and 12.5. While I could struggle to get the 12 on, getting them off was VERY difficult and pretty painful. The synthetic material was like a chamois and gripped my heel. I had to pretty much peel them off. I think I will go with the 12.5's which were a little more forgiving yet still had good heel tension. I am assuming the material won't stretch as much as the old leather versions. Haven't climbed in them yet but yeah, I figured give them a shot with the discount.

At least going synthetic they won’t have to worry about their cheap leather ripping at the ankle like the moc 

Crazy to me how some people can "review" a shoe without even climbing in them and breaking them in. Personal bias can be a huge factor in the initial assumptions of a shoe that could turn out to be not so bad or even good! Maybe climb in them for at least a month or two before reviewing them! :D

Tony T. wrote: Crazy to me how some people can "review" a shoe without even climbing in them and breaking them in. Personal bias can be a huge factor in the initial assumptions of a shoe that could turn out to be not so bad or even good! Maybe climb in them for at least a month or two before reviewing them! :D

Nah. 5.10 must die. They have kinda earned it

Doug Chism wrote: What size are you all getting with respect to street shoe sizing? Im tempted to take a shot on these considering the AAC discount makes them relatively cheap. Also, as far as athletes, doesent the current best female comp climber ( Janja ) still wear them? 

She wears the old ones. Almost ALL of the pros do. Rumor is they hate the new ones.