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Indoor Climbing/Training in the Portland ME area

Original Post
Eric Stapleton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 5

My girlfriend and I are moving to Portland ME in the near future and I'm wondering about the indoor climbing in the area. We live in New York City currently and have been bouncing around different gyms, but have been a little put off my the crowdedness and amount of birthday party kids running around most of the gyms here in the city. We've basically both settled on GP81 (smaller space, no parties, bouldering only/training focused) as being the best option here.

Is there a serious climbing community in or around Portland? If you climb/train indoors in or around the area, which gym do you go to? Are you happy with what they have to offer, or is there anything you feel is missing? would love any insights...

Jason Reynolds · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 0

I climbed with a guide in Acadia a few years ago and he worked at The Salt Pump in Scarborough in the off-season and spoke highly of it. I believe the owner is from NYC as well IIRC. I suspect Salt Pump and Evo will seem quite small coming from NYC as they're about half the size of a place like The Cliffs in LIC. On the plus side, they are also half the price and are much less crowded. I moved from Maine to NYC about ten years ago and whenever I go back to Maine I realize my NYC idea of crowded is very different from the Maine idea of crowded.

If you enjoy outdoor climbing I highly recommend a trip to Acadia (about 3 hours from Portland). New Hampshire is close as well with great trad around Conway (1.5 hours) and sport in Rumney (2.5 hours).

I hope that helps and I hope you enjoy Maine!

oats and honey · · Me, the way life should be · Joined May 2012 · Points: 40

Salt pump > evo 

Dave Cramer · · Greenfield, MA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 7

I visited Salt Pump once and it seemed awesome.

Chris Trautz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 90

Salt pump.

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756

Salt pump and rumney is the best sport crag I have been to.

Eric Stapleton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 5

Thanks for all the info! I will have to check out Salt Pump when I'm up there.

Definitely excited to check out the climbing in Acadia, and psyched to be closer to all the NH trad which we love, but is so far from NYC. 

Chris Trautz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 90

Some fun climbing out towards Sugarloaf mountain, two hours from you, if you get out that way, or want to. It's no Acadia or north Conway, but worth a visit. Let me know if you guys want to take a look. And welcome to Maine!

Don Eiver · · Westchester County, NY · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 27

Re: Maine in general, I would also like to mention Shagg Crag as a destination:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105964909/shagg-crag

Very stiff grades as there isn't much below 5.10 (to even warm up on) but it's totally worth a day trip if you're in Maine or surrounding areas.  

Shaniac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 24

A shout out for Eagle Bluff if you are ever up near Bangor. Stellar crag and I have never seen more than 4 people there. If that crag was in CA, it would be swamped like Lovers Leap. Well worth the visit. Always had fun and never a crowd.
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106269542/eagle-bluff

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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