Black Diamond Z4

How do they compare to Dragonflies and Totems?

mountainproject.com/forum/t…

They are very similar to dragonflies. They are not yet totems because the 2 sides of lobes arent independently loaded like the totem. I’d say biggest benefit of Z4’s are weight, grip power (from the soft metal on the lobes), and #1 benefit is that they won’t walk as much as the cams they replace. They also have the G-factor and look cool

I've never placed DMM dragonflies, but I've worked extensively with X4s and Alien Revolutions.  I now own a set of the Z4s and have placed them a few dozen times.  I am all in with the Z4s for several reasons, although the Aliens are a close second.  

The Black Diamond Z4s are much lighter than X4s and Dragonflies.  Aliens are slightly lighter, but the difference is negligible.  However, you get greater durability with the Z4s over the aliens, and you also get the double axel down to 0.3.

DMM dragonflies have a smaller range than both Z4s, X4s, and Aliens.  Aliens have the greatest range of them all, but BD microcams are close.  

The Z4s have the new trigger system that stiffens up the cam while placing and loosens up when released to provide greater holding power for horizontal placements and for reducing walk potential.  This actually works and the difference is noticeable.

The Z4s have pretty solid construction.  The lobes are softer than the X4s, which provides greater grip in placements.  The aliens have even softer aluminum, but to a fault; alien cams become deformed easily.  I've heard people are having problems with the springs and trigger action with their DMMs.  Although I haven't used my Z4s for very long, I believe this won't be an issue.  The plastic around the trigger of the Z4s seems solid and ample in providing protection to the stem/trigger system.

The Z4s have a single sling.  This is largely preference, but I prefer the simplicity and don't like fumbling with a double sling.  It doesn't seem to reduce the need for alpine draws.  

Lastly, the Z4s are cheaper than the dragonflies, X4s, and Aliens.  For now, I think it is the best microcam on the market.  But we'll have to wait and see what Wild Country comes up with.  

Totems are a whole other animal.  They are expensive, heavy, awkward, and more difficult to clean.  However, friends swear by them.  The independent loading can remove the need for offsets, but I  don't know if the holding power is better than a well placed offset.  And for parallel placements, I'm just not sure the holding power is much better than any other microcam to justify the cons.  

Disclaimer: I haven't fallen on a Z4 yet.  Maybe the cam will reveal its faults after I do.  

Matt Piscopo wrote: 
Totems are a whole other animal.  They are expensive, heavy, awkward, and more difficult to clean.  However, friends swear by them.  

Listening to you let's us believe the Totem is the deepest shitty cam while it's the best. 

For all the benefit of the cam it's no very expansive. It's lighter than the old C4 while having a much complex design. It's super easy to clean and how can you say it's awkward. You seem in bad faith.

I just got the smallest one, it’s more in line with a C3 in head-width and is small. Getting that inject the pro in the crack ninja feeling y’alls.

Marc-Olivier Chabot wrote: For all the benefit of the cam it's no very expansive. It's lighter than the old C4 while having a much complex design. It's super easy to clean and how how can you say it's awkward. You seem in bad faith.

Every other cam seems to run 25% off deals on independent websites, making the totem roughly $40 more.  Either way, its $20 more than a Z4.  

I find it difficult to clean because the flexible thumb press doesn't allow you to retract the cam to its smallest size very easily, making it difficult in tight placements.  

The complex design is what I find awkward.  I find it more fumbly in my hands with the two stems instead of one.  Remember, this is purely an opinion piece!  

And lets not forget that the camming angle of the totem provides more outward pressure.  This translates into better holding power, but also greater chance for blowing out softer rock.  I'm happy totems exist, and I believe they have their place, but its just not for me on an everyday climb.  

C3. RIP.  

Matt Piscopo wrote:

Every other cam seems to run 25% off deals on independent websites, making the totem roughly $40 more.  Either way, its $20 more than a Z4.  

I find it difficult to clean because the flexible thumb press doesn't allow you to retract the cam to its smallest size very easily, making it difficult in tight placements.  

The complex design is what I find awkward.  I find it more fumbly in my hands with the two stems instead of one.  Remember, this is purely an opinion piece!  

And lets not forget that the camming angle of the totem provides more outward pressure.  This translates into better holding power, but also greater chance for blowing out softer rock.  I'm happy totems exist, and I believe they have their place, but its just not for me on an everyday climb.  

This person obviously doesnt use Totems. All of the negatives he's stated are untrue. They arent awkward, they're ABSOLUTELY the easiest cam to clean becasue of their lobe shape, and they're one of the few cams that can be placed easily with winter gloves on. Opinions are opinions, but this is an odd takeaway to have, and is the exact opposite of everything I think about them.

Z4's are nice, btw.

I haven't tried the dragonfly yet, but if I could do it again, I'd get the .3-.75 Z4, and .2 and below in Dragonfly. The 0, .1, and .2 just arent that special in my mind, and would rather have the extra KN from the Dragonfly.