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Most exposed climbs in the world?
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Who else likes to feel their stomach drop on a knife edge with wind blowing from all directions. To slowly feel your arms pumping out on an overhang 1000 ft off the ground. To be the only one on a huge massif or pillar. I'm looking to compile a list of some of the most exposed/terrifying/hand-sweat-inducing climbs you all know. My contributions are Cardiac Arete and Maiden Voyage. Let me know what other climbs gave you quite the adrenaline rush! |
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I've never done them but these two look like they could qualify: |
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Different kind of exposed: Guilty Pleasure on the Redwood Coast. Route #20 (accessed by traverse, #14) in the picture below (note that this picture shows a lower tide than normal).  |
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Little Devil, hands down |
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Gunsight to South Peak at Seneca. Super easy climbing but still gets the butt puckered |
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Standing up on the ancient art summit is pretty stomach churning. |
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The Carson Kodas Arete at Courtright reservoir has good exposure. It's only one pitch that starts a pitch up, but due to the nature of the climbing, the runout factor, and the lay of the surrounding terrain, it's pretty wild. |
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Cool topic... Routes that come to mind are: |
 This should probably be in the conversation... 2000' of air to the glacier on either side of the knife-edge ridge and a summit small enough to go au cheval. La Granja, Aguja Pollone, Patagonia |
chris bursey wrote: Gunsight to South Peak at Seneca. Super easy climbing but still gets the butt puckered Most exposed one I’ve done! |
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+1 for Seneca and Traitor Horn |
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Haven't climbed it, but the roof pitch on Freeway in Squamish is pretty wild. |
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https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/112262746_large_1494329080.jpg
Gobright on the Salathe headwall For something a bit more approachable for us mere mortals, take your pick in Black Velvet Canyon. Prince of Darkness or Rock Warrior or something else going up the main face |
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Pulling around the fin and up the final handcrack on the 5th pitch of the Naked Edge is pretty amazing. Not exposed by Valley or Alpine standards but still pretty epic. |
chris bursey wrote: Gunsight to South Peak at Seneca. Super easy climbing but still gets the butt puckered Leading this was one of my first times trad climbing, before I trusted my gear placements to hold a fall...a memorable experience to say the least! |
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Whitney-Gilman has got to be up there for the east coast.  It's hard to tell from that photo, but right below that (downsloping, might I add) foothold is several hundred feet of air going down to the talus field where you rope up. I distinctly remember very gingerly rocking over onto that hold as my last several gear placements were small nuts, and pitons that could have been placed in the 50's for all I know. |
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Mike Womack wrote: Cool topic... Routes that come to mind are: Funny-- I immediately thought of the V-pitch on Exum Ridge on the Grand, but then I realized that is actually part of a subset of this thread: pitches that provide rather sudden exposure or make you feel like you're suddenly above a lot of air that you didn't even necessarily earn. On that route, you've been climbing on an airy-feeling face of the peak for a while, but then suddenly you're scrambling along above a wall that drops away below you to the left for hundreds of feet, and it's only 5.4(ish)! So great. other pitches that do the same thing:-- the traverse pitch on Ruper, Eldorado Canyon -- the crux pitch on the North Ridge route, Spearhead, Rocky Mountain NP and finally, a few where the belay ledge is the real exposure payoff, even if you have been earning that exposure for longer: -- the belay below the crux pitch on Yellow Spur, Eldorado Canyon -- the Pizza Pan belay, South Face, Petite Grepon, Rocky Mountain NP |
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Upper gargoyles on Emperor Ridge.
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