Tenaya climbing shoes info

Hi,
So i have tried tenaya ra & oasi, The most comfi shoes i have ever put on.
Could not find matsia & iati, but i would love to hear opinions about those models, and the differences between all of the above.
Looking for a shoe for sport routes outdoors.
Thanks! 

Of the models you asked about...Have and really like the Iati. Reasonably sensitive shoe that is a bit stiffer than some of the other Tenaya models I have. Edges very well, smears very well, and has surprising power in the toe box. Really good all-arounder. Like other Tenaya models, it is very comfortable. The lacing system does take some getting used to...Haven’t tried these outdoors yet ( winter), but the Tarifa and Mundaka models have been stellar performers outdoors. Think these will be too.

I have the ra and oasi (also tatanka and tarifa).

comfy for my morton's toe and excellent performance. ra's been great for edging, oasi's been great for hard sport. a lot of tenaya shoes tend to fit a narrower foot profile, especially the tarifa which I can't wear anymore because of how painfully narrow it is for me. many of their shoes are generally narrow if you're considering crack climbing in the future
i hear the mundaka is for wide feet

I'm on my third pair of Oasi right now. For the first month I used them I actually hated them and was going to return them because they felt so strange - turns out they were my first pair of shoes that actually fit my feet properly. Basically this is the main point for me. They're also the perfect combination of response and stiffness for much of the limestone climbing I do, so I like them for that.

The downsides I've noticed are: (a) Tenaya doesn't sell them with the separate strap fasteners anymore, which were really nice, (b) toehook and heelhook sensitivity are a noticeable step down from my Pythons, but that comes with the shape I guess, (c) with age, the blue heel tensioning band begins to rip where it meets the finger pull loops. The top of the rubber that forms the heelcup can begin to delaminate after aggressive heelhooks, and the white leather above toe knuckles pops holes fairly quickly if you flag a lot on abrasive surfaces.

Assuming they fit your feet (easy to tell, <1/4 of a US size stretch over their lifetime), I'd recommend them for climbing where toe precision is the main concern. I would recommend a softer shoe for places where toe and heelhooks dominate the style.

Looks like they handle three resoles pretty well in terms of function (not so much in terms of fashion, but I don't care about that). The feel obviously changes but they've never stopped being supremely comfortable.

I have worn 4 pairs of Oasis (10m), one Oasi LV (9.5m), one pair of masai (10m).    Street size is 11-11.5m

If the Oasi fits you, then the Mastia probably won't. The Mastia has a very wide forefoot. Like insanely wide. Wearing a 9.5m Mastia I can pinch the fabric over the top of the fore foot.

If you like the Oasi and want a stiffer front end, the masai is the way to go for skinny feet.

Unrelated: My oasi's have been through 3 resoles. The third started to let got early on all three pairs so I think 3 may be the limit on the Tenaya Oasi's

my inti's and ra's feel basically identical...which is great! i really have a hard time telling the difference...

Wow thank you so much guys, I now am more comfortable with oasi women as my choice. Thanks! 

Maybe someone can provide some insight for my issue.

I have 2 pairs of Oasis and I think they're amazing shoes. My favorite so far. I feel pretty precise in them. However, I'm starting to realize that my feet are dumb: I have a wide forefoot and a narrow heel. To illustrate this point, I bought some Chacos online before I realized this. My foot was almost too wide in the front for the Chacos and almost the exact length I needed, but the heel area was wayyyyyy too big. I've noticed this in my Oasiss, as well (plus nearly every other shoe I've owned now that I think about it). When I first tried them on, everything felt great. After pretty extensive use, the forefoot still feels precise and tight, but the heel is so loose it's starting to pop on hooks. Before someone says 'downsize', I did when I first bought the pair and absolutely could not climb fore more than a minute because they were so tight.

So, my question is this: do any of the other Tanaya shoes have the kind of fit that I need or can anyone recommend a shoe with a similar feel but better fit for my dumb feet?

Thanks

Sean C wrote: Maybe someone can provide some insight for my issue.

I have 2 pairs of Oasis and I think they're amazing shoes. My favorite so far. I feel pretty precise in them. However, I'm starting to realize that my feet are dumb: I have a wide forefoot and a narrow heel. To illustrate this point, I bought some Chacos online before I realized this. My foot was almost too wide in the front for the Chacos and almost the exact length I needed, but the heel area was wayyyyyy too big. I've noticed this in my Oasiss, as well (plus nearly every other shoe I've owned now that I think about it). When I first tried them on, everything felt great. After pretty extensive use, the forefoot still feels precise and tight, but the heel is so loose it's starting to pop on hooks. Before someone says 'downsize', I did when I first bought the pair and absolutely could not climb fore more than a minute because they were so tight.

So, my question is this: do any of the other Tanaya shoes have the kind of fit that I need or can anyone recommend a shoe with a similar feel but better fit for my dumb feet?

Thanks

Tenaya Mastia has the wide forefoot, but for the length I also felt the heel was pretty baggy. Have you ever tried the Acro From butora? It has a medium wide front end, and a painfully small heel cup. Once you've broken them in the heel is still fairly snug.

The Mastia is not insanely wide. If I put it next to a Solution it is still narrower and those are not a wide shoe.

PatMas wrote:

Tenaya Mastia has the wide forefoot, but for the length I also felt the heel was pretty baggy. Have you ever tried the Acro From butora? It has a medium wide front end, and a painfully small heel cup. Once you've broken them in the heel is still fairly snug.

I haven't! My friend has a pair of Butoras and says they're good, but I've never seen them in the wild otherwise so never had na chance to try em on.

Karl Walters wrote: The Mastia is not insanely wide. If I put it next to a Solution it is still narrower and those are not a wide shoe.

I've never worn a solution, but relative to the Oasi, Masai, TC Pro, Scarpa Origin, and Muira, the mastia is wider feeling at the size. The fabric isn't even tight across my foot.

Size 10 Oasi's fit snug, below is a 9.5 mastia.

I love my Iati's. They're comfortable right out the box, but still feel and climb like performance shoes. My only complaint is with the closure system: there's been plenty of occasions (especially climbing outside) where the velcro strap has undone itself mid-route. Usually just a minor inconvenience, but one worth noting none-the-less.

PatMas wrote:

I've never worn a solution, but relative to the Oasi, Masai, TC Pro, Scarpa Origin, and Muira, the mastia is wider feeling at the size. The fabric isn't even tight across my foot.

Size 10 Oasi's fit snug, below is a 9.5 mastia.

They're higher volume than other Tenaya shoes, yes, but the actual width of the toebox is not wide at all. The extra fabric in your photo is the extra volume, which is usually up-down room in the shoe. It is still quite narrow compared to everything else out there including the Skwama that they copied.

Overall mine are ok, takes a bit to get used to the heel cup as the shoe has no resistance to torsion.

The Mastia's are huge. 1 size below my typical Tenaya size, which is 1 size below my street shoe size, was still at least 1 size too big.

For those who want help counting, that's at least three full sizes below my street shoe size.

Three.

3.

I wear my Mastia in a 7.5 US and I’m a 10. The Tenaya guys recommended this based on my other shoe sizes. It’s .5 below what I would wear an Iati in so that’s not that downsized.  Tenayas are comfortable but I can imagine how people could wear them as big as they claim.  Of the sponsored climbers 3 sizes below street is the norm

PatMas wrote: I have worn 4 pairs of Oasis (10m), one Oasi LV (9.5m), one pair of masai (10m).    Street size is 11-11.5m

If the Oasi fits you, then the Mastia probably won't. The Mastia has a very wide forefoot. Like insanely wide. Wearing a 9.5m Mastia I can pinch the fabric over the top of the fore foot.

If you like the Oasi and want a stiffer front end, the masai is the way to go for skinny feet.

Unrelated: My oasi's have been through 3 resoles. The third started to let got early on all three pairs so I think 3 may be the limit on the Tenaya Oasi's

Did you find a significant difference between the Oasi lv and Oasi? I heard heal is more narrow (and supposed to fit female feet) , but any thing else.?
New Reply to Tenaya

O F wrote:

Did you find a significant difference between the Oasi lv and Oasi? I heard heal is more narrow (and supposed to fit female feet) , but any thing else.?
New Reply to Tenaya

I'd be interested to hear about this, too. An Oasi with a narrower heel would be perfect for me, I think.

Bill Czajkowski wrote: The Mastia's are huge. 1 size below my typical Tenaya size, which is 1 size below my street shoe size, was still at least 1 size too big.

For those who want help counting, that's at least three full sizes below my street shoe size.

Three.

3.

Looking at the photos you have very low volume feet. I'm a size 10.5 US and an A on the Brannock device. Almost everything I use has tons of extra room. I have my Mastia in size 7.5 US. They fit very snug with little to no extra material anywhere.

I can fit any Tenaya shoe OK in the toebox. The Oasi is so soft it doesn't matter much. The Iati has a tad more volume and is a marginally better fit than the Oasi.  I'm actually not sure what other Tenaya shoe I would pair the Mastia with. It feels very similar to my women's Solutions, maybe stiffer, but not as stiff as my Hiangles.

Karl Walters wrote:

Looking at the photos you have very low volume feet. I'm a size 10.5 US and an A on the Brannock device. Almost everything I use has tons of extra room. I have my Mastia in size 7.5 US. They fit very snug with little to no extra material anywhere.

I can fit any Tenaya shoe OK in the toebox. The Oasi is so soft it doesn't matter much. The Iati has a tad more volume and is a marginally better fit than the Oasi.  I'm actually not sure what other Tenaya shoe I would pair the Mastia with. It feels very similar to my women's Solutions, maybe stiffer, but not as stiff as my Hiangles.

Those weren't pictures of my feet. Based on occasionally needing wide shoes I'd say I have a marginally high volume foot. La Sportiva Miura's (lace-up) were excruciatingly narrow for me.

O F wrote:

Did you find a significant difference between the Oasi lv and Oasi? I heard heal is more narrow (and supposed to fit female feet) , but any thing else.?
New Reply to Tenaya

The proportions of the shoe are almost the same probably just a few percent "tighter" across the whole shoe, with the exception of less material over the top of the 'ball' of the foot. (I'd very subjectively say 7-10% tighter across the ball of the foot. And 3-5% everywhere else.)

Basically if you like the Oasi, you will like the LV. For me the difference is basically a super thin pair of socks.