Next climbing shoe after Evolv Shaman?

There's an old topic about this, but I think it's not so up to date because there are new versions of those shoes now. I have the Shamans in 12.5 US / 46.5 EU, they fit pretty well but I'm looking for that one pair of climbing shoes. I love overhanging boulders and do a good amount of sport climbing. The Sportiva Skwama's didn't fit my foot when I tried them on in-store, so those don't work for me. I tried Solutions, the toebox felt too tight in size 44, and the heel cup wasn't tight enough on the 44.5. I'd like to try on the Futura's, but part of me thinks that if those other two Sportiva shoes don't fit my foot then I should just give up on Sportiva entirely. The biggest issue I've had across all these shoes is that although my big toe is very scrunched up inside the shoe, I am able to curl all of my other toes which makes some awkward foot placements feel even more insecure.

Does anyone have experience with moving on from the Shaman? More so, anyone that might have the same issues I've described above?

I'm looking for the same or more aggressive shoes compared to the Shaman, if anyone can offer any insight it would be much appreciated!

hey Will,

I was a big fan of the old style Shamans as well, and i have the same toe/heel sizing issues with LaSportiva.  Other shoes that i have like alot since the shaman changed have been the Scrapa Boostic, and the Tenya Osai.  I tend it find that evolve and scarpa shoes fit my foot shape best.

I don’t have any experience with the shamans, but you may want to try out the Futuras. The skwamas fit like a glove for me, but the futuras and solutions are both terrible fits. IIRC, the lasts are different on all three.

Scarpa Instinct VS. Similar fit (fits wider toeboxes) with better heel, rubber, tension, and precision. 

Second for trying the Futuras.  FWIW, I wear Shamans or Futuras depending on what I'm on and they both fit wonderfully

Lincoln Mahan wrote: Second for trying the Futuras.  FWIW, I wear Shamans or Futuras depending on what I'm on and they both fit wonderfully

What size do you wear in both shoes? And what do you use each shoe for?

I have a very wide foot and moved on from shamans. I still haven’t found any shoe that fits my heel well. I moved on to trying out the Arpias/Veloce from Scarpa. 9 in shaman, 41.5 in the latter. 

Will Hass wrote:

What size do you wear in both shoes? And what do you use each shoe for?

43 Shamans and 42.5 futuras.  Anything with toe or heel hooks, I prefer the shamans, as well as on steep overhangs.  I find the futuras work really well on small granite edges and on slab.  

 I have a wide foot and specifically I have a bunion like bone deformity on my right big toe. I have found that the evolv oracle is really great after I them worn in. The old shamans were great to accommodate my wide feet and big right toe.

I’ve moved on from the Shaman to the Evolv Oracles and the Scarpa Instinct VS.  I love them both.

Lincoln Mahan wrote:

43 Shamans and 42.5 futuras.  Anything with toe or heel hooks, I prefer the shamans, as well as on steep overhangs.  I find the futuras work really well on small granite edges and on slab.  

I find that sizing so weird, but maybe my feet are just weird. I wear a 46.5 shaman, and it fits absolutely perfect, they're completely broken in and I don't think I could've gone for a smaller size. At the start of any session they're too small, then when my feet get all warm and stanky they're perfect. I now have a Futura in size 43.5, and although I've only worn them for one session and they definitely aren't broken in, nor has the leather stretched out, I think I chose the right size. I'll post an update when I've really used the Futura's but I thought you might be interested in my sizing. Thanks for the comment!

Try some testarossas from sportiva. They fit completely different than my skwamas, and in retrospect, I didn't know how a shoe was supposed to feel when I bought skwamas.

Woah, doubling the Lincoln count, I dig

Hell yeah, best name in the multiverse.