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Climbing Shoes: To Resole or To Buy?

Original Post
Helen C · · New York, NY · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 0

I've been climbing for about 2 years, only at the gym, with the Scarpa Origins Women.
As a beginner, they were great. Now they are showing signs of wear and tear ie there is a tear in the sole of both shoes.

Just wondering should I try to resole them? or buy new ones?
If resole, where can I do that?
If buy new ones, what would you recommend for a person who is beginner/intermediate (bouldering at V2-V3s, hitting a plateau for a bit) and with my right foot slightly bigger than my left?
If I were to buy new ones, I thought about buying another pair of Scarpa Origins but it'd be nice to have a little variety when getting new stuff.

Sam M · · Portland, OR · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 30

Rock and resole is 67.50 for a pair with 2x rand repair and 10 for return shipping. All said and done its about $85 if you dont have a local resoler. If you only need soles it will cost you around $60 at R&R. With cheaper shoes, at $85 it can become a toss up whether or not it is worth it. New scarpa origins are available rn for $75... So the only reason I can see to resole is because of the environmental factor.

chris p · · Meriden, CT · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 556

My suggestion is to do both. Look to buy a new pair that are a bit more aggressive and performance oriented, then you can wear those during the few weeks it will take to get the resole done. After that, you will have a comfortable beginner shoe for easier routes, and a more uncomfortably tight pair that gives you better performance and control at the cost of hurting your feet if you wear them continuously for too long.

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 28,893
chris p wrote: My suggestion is to do both. Look to buy a new pair that are a bit more aggressive and performance oriented, then you can wear those during the few weeks it will take to get the resole done. After that, you will have a comfortable beginner shoe for easier routes, and a more uncomfortably tight pair that gives you better performance and control at the cost of hurting your feet if you wear them continuously for too long.

+1    "Sounds like a (good) plan" ....especially if you plan on longer routes "outside".

Dario Piana · · Guadalajara, Jalisco · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 10
chris p wrote: My suggestion is to do both. Look to buy a new pair that are a bit more aggressive and performance oriented, then you can wear those during the few weeks it will take to get the resole done. After that, you will have a comfortable beginner shoe for easier routes, and a more uncomfortably tight pair that gives you better performance and control at the cost of hurting your feet if you wear them continuously for too long.

I'd do that as well. 

You'll learn a lot about your shoes (and your footwork) in the process. 

Having a comfortable, "broken in" pair of climbing shoes is always good. 

On top of that, there's one less pair of climbing shoes going in the garbage. Yet another good reason to buy quality shoes and resole as many times as possible.

MN norske · · Austin, MN · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 150

Just got my three pairs of shoes back from Ramutas Resole and he did a phenomenal job. They look great and have performed without issue. I’ve used all the big names like rock and resole and rubber room before and never got such quick turn around (3 wks) or such great work done. Highly recommend Ramutas!!!

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

Check prices at Yosemite Bum for your resole. Good results on many resoles. 

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Helen C wrote:
If buy new ones, what would you recommend for a person who is beginner/intermediate (bouldering at V2-V3s, hitting a plateau for a bit) and with my right foot slightly bigger than my left?

It is impossible to recommend any shoe without having seen shape of your feet. Franky, good fit depends on so many variables that the only way to get shoes that fit is to try them on - shoe demos are usually the best since the shoes are almost broken in, and there is a good selection of models.  Sometimes it is worth looking into shoes marketed for different gender - distribution of volume is quite different for men's and women's shoes.

There are some manufacturers that for not a whole lot of money will sell you split sizes - that is two different shoe sizes. IIRC Butora is one of them. 

John V · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 0

I would buy a new pair of shoes, a little more aggressive, as others have said, and for now just keep the origins as they are as a back up pair.  Maybe try on some scarpa vapor or vapor v. Whatever you buy, use it for a while before deciding whether you want to keep the origins enough to resole or replace them. 

Terry Owens · · Reno · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 5
Helen C wrote: I've been climbing for about 2 years, only at the gym, with the Scarpa Origins Women.
As a beginner, they were great. Now they are showing signs of wear and tear ie there is a tear in the sole of both shoes.

Just wondering should I try to resole them? or buy new ones?
If resole, where can I do that?
If buy new ones, what would you recommend for a person who is beginner/intermediate (bouldering at V2-V3s, hitting a plateau for a bit) and with my right foot slightly bigger than my left?
If I were to buy new ones, I thought about buying another pair of Scarpa Origins but it'd be nice to have a little variety when getting new stuff.

If you have a hole in the rubber rand, it's probably not worth resoling. The fit will likely change, and you'll be spending about as much as a new pair of shoes. 

I think everyone should have a good pair of Moccs. Whatever brand is comfortable, they all work well. They're the most versatile shoes I own. They're cheap too.

Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,175

Pro Deal Resoles is also cheaper than the major resolers and does quality work. Resoling is almost always cheaper and more environmentally friendly, unless you want to just wear your shoes until your toes are poking through.

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276
M Appelquist wrote:

Whatever you buy go big enough to wear socks.

The impact of degassing foot fungus shortens the life of shoe rubber.

Wut?

ZT G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 50

Has anyone resoled there own shoes? Was considering trying to do it myself on a pair, but haven’t put in much homework to research process, difficulty. Seems like a good money saver if the average guy could do it. 

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100
ZT G wrote:

Has anyone resoled there own shoes? Was considering trying to do it myself on a pair, but haven’t put in much homework to research process, difficulty. Seems like a good money saver if the average guy could do it. 

I have done my own resoling. It is not hard but one needs access to a belt sander to do the finishing bits. That said, I just send mine to Rock and Resole. Those guys do a fine job. 

Helen C wrote:I've been climbing for about 2 years, only at the gym, with the Scarpa Origins Women.
As a beginner, they were great. Now they are showing signs of wear and tear ie there is a tear in the sole of both shoes.

Post a picture as tear in the sole does not make sense to me. 

ZT G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 50
Allen Sanderson wrote:

I have done my own resoling. It is not hard but one needs access to a belt sander to do the finishing bits. That said, I just send mine to Rock and Resole. Those guys do a fine job. 

I have one, was your finished product close to professional resole standards in terms of appearance or was it a little rough on the eyes? How did they hold up in comparison to a professional resole. I know I could send them in but I like tinkering around the garage when I’m not climbing

pph213 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 5

Rock and resole has a long lead time right now. If this is your only pair of shoes I would suggest getting a second pair. 

Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 6,023

I just got back 5 pairs of resoled climbing shoes from Dave Page, the Cobbler, in Seattle. This is my first time using his shop and the quality looks good.

https://www.davepagecobbler.com/

Turn around time was about 1 week. I believe the resole was $40 a pair and $10 each rand (if it was needed).

I sent in the shoes with several friends to share shipping costs.

Eli W · · Oregon · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 0
M Appelquist wrote:

Whatever you buy go big enough to wear socks.

The impact of degassing foot fungus shortens the life of shoe rubber.

Or just get properly fitting shoes with harder, thicker rubber if you want to trade off performance for durability.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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