New Ice Climber- what do I NEED to know that I probably don't already?

Hey all,

Just started ice climbing around Utah this season. Did the Pricecicle(dirtcicle) and first three pitches of GWI in the last week, and loved it!! I have been reading Freedom of the Hills and am taking things very slowly. I by no means know everything, or even a fraction of things, but I've started to get a feel for general do's and don'ts of the activity. Ie Rules 1-10: Do not fall on ice.

What are some things I should know that I might not? Happy to read any articles if you have links and don't want to summarize. Thanks!

Even more so than rock climbing, really be certain your partners are super solid. You probably aren't qualified to judge squat yet, so their experience is the difference between fun and....not. Rock routes usually stay put. Not ice. You may be in avalanche terrain, possibly rock fall territory too. Temps matter, hugely. There's more of a slog in, even with a close approach. Elevation. Bad driving conditions....just all of it is more complicated and commiting than fair season climbing.

Happily, even more so than rock climbing, technique gets you 90% of the way there. Don't waste energy trying to grip tools hard, or muscling stuff when all you need is a wrist flick. Ice 101 is super simple, that's what makes it so fun, IMO!

Make sure you have gloves that can get sopping wet to climb in, and gloves that aren't slick when wet to belay. Be prepared for challenging belaying, with super slick skinny ropes and you wearing gloves.

Stupid shit like layers of hoods interfering with glasses vents and making them fog, or your helmet unclipping itself somehow. Too hot. Too cold. Both, at the same time. Everything unzippable well down the front will help.

That's the hardest part, for me, all the stuff to get dialed, that isn't even the climbing. By the way, only a tiny part of the time is climbing. ROI is pretty pitiful, lol!

Best, Helen

• Will Gadd's "Spring and Sag" technique description is probably the most important thing for your form: https://willgadd.com/spring-and-sag-a-suspension-view-of-ice-climbing-movement/
• Some of this is covered in Gadd's article, but highlights of your form are as follows: Staggering tools reduces risk of dinner plating a huge section, by the nature of the movement means that one hand drops below your heart with each movement (mitigating the risk of screaming barfies), and helps you remain efficient with as few swings as possible. Dropping your heels allows your crampon's secondary points (forward facing on the bottom) to engage the ice in a sort of "tripod" along with your primary front points; this is the way your crampons are meant to be used, and it results in a stable platform. 
• Sharp tools and crampon points are important. Sharpen your points before every outing with a standard file from the hardware store.
• Many climbers have found that the current generation of hyperlight aluminum ice screws have a tendency to "bind" within the first few inches of placement in certain conditions (often a specific combination of wet + cold). Generally, the understanding is that these screws cut a clean "ice plug" right away, and when that plug moves from the steel teeth to the aluminum shaft, it "re-freezes" and you feel as if you're driving the screw into a rock. There are a few ways to mitigate this: (1) Just use steel screws, or (2) back off a full turn when you feel it bind and then continue with your placement as normal. I'd recommend Option 1 for now, for a beginner. Personally, I have one hyperlight screw in the largest size so that my v-thread screw doesn't weigh me down, and the rest of my screws are steel.
• The corollary/background behind "don't fall" is perhaps "don't be a hero." As the immediate uprising against the YouTuber who took a whipper indicates, falling is not only dangerous but also unnecessary. You can and should be prepared to mitigate fall risk by (1) never leading anything unless you're 100% sure you won't fall, (2) never climbing into a pump, (3) sitting on a screw or a well-placed tool if you are in any way concerned about the next few moves or your fatigue, (4) hooking everything you can think to hook if shit hits the fan, (5) practicing proper foot placement (i.e., kick and kick and kick until you have such a good stance that you could host a barbecue from it), and (6) almost anything else you can think of. Ice climbing is pretty stupid to begin with, so you should take special care to ensure that you only have a chance to fall due to "black swan" events (icefall, rockfall, failure of ice that you failed to predict). The smartest thing I've ever seen anyone do on ice is downclimb and go home.
• Many ice climbs take pitons in the surrounding rock, especially in the San Juans. Pitoncraft can be a useful skill in this space. Tools with hammers on the end are useful. Tools with adzes are generally reserved for snow climbs where you might need to place a picket or dig a pit; even then, many alpinists choose to skip the adze and dig with the front of the pick. I semi-jokingly call adzes "eyeball scoopers."
• Certain climbers look down on "personal choice" ice equipment like helmet visors, double ropes, glasses, a larger rack of screws, tethers, hand warmers, multiple pairs of gloves...ignore these climbers, and encourage your friends and partners to take all the precautions they'd like. Climb on your own terms. It's dicey enough out there already.
• Avalanche risk is huge in ice climbing. An ice drainage is a snow drainage, because a drainage is a drainage.
• Pay attention to your calories. Ice climbing is blue collar work in the cold; water and glucose go a long way to making you perform at the level you'll need to perform to stay safe(ish).

I'm a total noob on ice (but not rock).  I have all of 16 pitches under my belt, and all of that has  been within the last month.

So I'm right there with you on the learning curve.  I wouldn't bother posting, but I have been finding something helpful:

I've spent a couple weekends at the ice park in Ouray.  I dunno if there are closer kinds of places to SLC.  But it's been really helpful to just go and get in a bunch of laps all on top rope.  Just having some stick time on the ice is really making me feel like I'm progressing.  Ice climbing is a bit scary and seems very un-casual compared to, say, single pitch sport climbing.  But that place is worth visiting just because it seems like it makes climbing ice about as safe as it could possibly be, which has made practicing the technique a lot easier.

FWIW: I read through Will Gadd's blog when I was starting and picked out all the articles about ice climbing. 

Will Gadd Blog Articles about Ice Climbing Technique

Technique
1.*** willgadd.com/simple-ice-tri… Date: 13th February 2010
2. willgadd.com/short-clip-on-… Date: 8th December 2010
3.** willgadd.com/bits-and-pieces/ Date: 15th December 2010
4.** willgadd.com/new-years-tips… Date: 1st January 2011
5.** willgadd.com/664/ Date: 25th March 2012
6.** willgadd.com/799/ Date: 14th December 2012
7.** willgadd.com/x-vs-t-why-the… Date: 31st January 2013
8. willgadd.com/falling-on-ice…
9.* willgadd.com/the-steep-clim… Date: 12th March 2014
10.**** willgadd.com/a-simple-fix-f… Date: 14th January 2015
11.**** willgadd.com/spring-and-sag… Date: 31st December 2016
12.***** willgadd.com/note-to-self-h…

How to Grip an Ice Tool
1. willgadd.com/how-to-hold-an… Date: 5th December 2010
2. willgadd.com/grip-swing/ Date: 8th December 2010
3. willgadd.com/how-to-hold-an… Date: 26th December 2012
4. willgadd.com/three-drytooli… Date: 4th January 2014

Falling Ice
1. willgadd.com/ice-breaks-don… Date: 4th March 2013

Approach to Leading / Mindset / Decision Making / Getting Better
1. willgadd.com/ice-screw-test… Date: 12th January 2007
2.** willgadd.com/a-few-more-tri… Date: 15th March 2010
3. willgadd.com/mental-tricks/ Date: 30th January 2011
4. willgadd.com/ice-climbing-i… Date: 22nd March 2011
5. willgadd.com/how-not-to-suck/ Date: 25th March 2011
6. willgadd.com/indecisionnot-… Date: 26th March 2012

Multipitch Tips and Tricks for Bigger Routes
1. willgadd.com/simple-tricks-… Date: 24th February 2010
2. willgadd.com/notes-on-simpl… Date: 3rd March 2010

Other Observations And “Rules”
1. willgadd.com/water-and-ice/ Date: 29th June 2012
2. willgadd.com/hanging-belays…
3. willgadd.com/careful-at-the…

Grades
1. willgadd.com/fun-sketchy-an…
2. willgadd.com/ice-and-rock-g…

I read about every post on Will Gadd's blog last fall... I've been finding the writing very useful even as a total noob.

Ice takes a while to learn and there's always some kind of variation- it's a much more plastic medium for climbing than rock.  Just follow a lot of people for a while, find competent partners who place lots of solid screws.  It's great to learn as much as you can online or through books but ice climbing takes personal experience more than anything.  Toprope steep ice, truly steep ice is different than almost vertical ice.  And if you're located in Salt Lake City start learning to mixed climb with bolts and such, our ice seasons are diminishing and you won't get out much if you're looking for perfectly cold days you can sink large screws into anything.  Plus it gets you used to using crampons and tools, will make you strong and is safer (on bolts) than true ice climbing.  Also bring lots of gloves, I figure out what you like in terms of glove and you're almost certainlhy overgripping already.   Just find a stickier glove that fits your hand.  

Most ice climbers I think are conscientious enough not to just choose scenarios where falling is a real possibility - i.e. jumping on WI5 when all you have led is 3+. What is hard to recognize is when you are getting yourself into a scenario where you might fall, even if it's not obvious.

For me it was climbing something not especially steep, but that was covered in lots and lots of snow. Under that snow was nothing but slush, and tons and tons of rotten ice. I spent most of my energy trying to excavate to decent ice to bail, but I found nothing, and I kept climbing higher (but steeper ice) until I found good ice. At this point I was in ground fall territory, and managed to get myself pumped, mostly due to fear instead of pure difficulty. I barely got the screw in, clipped, yelled for a take, and hung totally exhausted for a few minutes. It was stupid, and I was inexperienced, and there was some luck at play that went my way that day. It could have easily gone the other way, and I would have been that newb who decked on an easy climb, by doing something stupid.

At the time I had taken around 10 trips to the ice park, and had logged the requisite '150' pitches (almost exactly), and was anxious to lead, this was maybe 5 leads in.

I think most everyone has had a close call, especially when they are first leading - maybe it's climbing up something that all of sudden gets super thin as it tops out with really poor tools, or climbs a seemingly solid piece of ice only to find it is a thin hollow tube once a foot kicks through.

I still find myself learning and being humbled all the time - it's a tough sport, and it's hard to get really good at.

Good luck - your mind is clearly at least in the right spot, and you are asking the right questions.

You wanna keep ice climbing? Don’t move to Florida.

That’s all I have to say

On colder days a thermos full of hot liquids is good for morale. Or, a bottle of Yukon jack

Almost all ice is more difficult than it looks from below...more so than rock.  

1.  Read a comprehensive book specifically about ice climbing.  Will Gadd and Sean Isaac have written good books on the subject, which are much more in-depth than Freedom of the Hills.
2.  Hire a professional instructor or take a course.  Getting in-person instruction and feedback is very valuable, especially if you plan on leading.

A few simple tips since everything seems well covered above, I might be reiterating something I missed.

Eye protection, I learned the hard way coming over a bulge and taking a shard of ice straight to the eye before I could blink. My eye watered so bad I had to back off and could barely see on the 3 mile hike out and had blurry vision for days. Fuckin hurt too. Not always practical, but use something when you can.

Tuck your jacket into your harness and keep your next set of gloves inside to keep them warm. I'm sure you know this already, just adding for anyone who might see this later.

Shake out before your hands get cold, I usually do after the first couple moves off the ground. As far as gloves, circulation beats insulation. Thin gloves for climbing, thicker for the belay.

Hot water in the bottles and calorie dense food go a long way for me. Screw a clif bar, salami and cheese cubes are the best.

Most of all, just have fun!

Learn to get anchored to your tools to place gear and don't be afraid to do it if you get so pumped that you cannot place a screw. I've seen many partners just go for the top so they could say they did it without hanging. 

In addition to the great stuff by Will Gadd that has been posted here, everyone should check out this video. Aside from being a great climber, the guide in this video has a soothing voice that rivals that of Bob Ross! Excellent video on the technique.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1AJS-hccXE  

All the stuff by Will Gadd on technique is great, on ice more than rock just being able to move well will see you through without getting pumped, a good foot, and a tool in the right spot and pretty much anywhere is a rest... that said, learn when to go and when to rest, sure, you can place a screw anywhere, but it's a lot easier if you climb to a stance if possible, it doesn't have to be big to make it way easier to hang out...

as far as gloves, at least two, and maybe three pairs, keep the ones you are not using inside your jacket, and for climbing thinner is better, cold weather golf gloves are money if you are really on something hard, get to the belay and change immediately, dry tools and gloves are warm, happy hands...

screaming barfies are better dealt with early, keep your core warm, keep blood circulating, if your hands start to freeze slow down and get blood back to them rather than trying to climb through it...
 

Keep your tools sharp. A good pair is sharp crampons and tools will do wonders for solid placements. Another good tip is to give your shoulder a good jerk when you get a tool placed to make sure it can hold weight. 

3 pairs of gloves maybe 4 depending on the day and objectives. 1 pair for approach 1  dexterous pair for leading and one warmer bulkier pair for  emergencies and or the end of the day. . Perhaps 2 pairs of very dexterous/ thinner  for leading if its a big route. Hand warmers. Buy a case of 40 on amazon at the start of the season. Do Not put them in your boots. they will make your feet colder by cutting off circulation and there will not be enough oxygen in there for them to work. Do put them in your gloves Before you start climbing and Before your hands get cold.  in colder conditions put one in your chest and one on the back of your neck as well.
 Do Not climb in partys of 3 unless  at least 2 of them are fast or you are paying a guide.
 Do practice a lot on your own time. Find an ice boulder . usually a road cut on a secondary road and start with traversing staying very close to the ground.  Practice until you can go higher without falling. practice going up and down. Do not fall.  get better and practice highballs. Do Not fall.
 Do Not climb with slow people. You will  get cold.  Do Not Climb slowly on 2nd. You and your leader will get cold.
As a 2nd you have 2 jobs. 1 belay the leader. 2 Clean the pitch as quickly as possible so that your party does not get cold.
Do Not fall. 

Nick Goldsmith wrote: 3 pairs of gloves maybe 4 depending on the day and objectives. 1 pair for approach 1  dexterous pair for leading and one warmer bulkier pair for  emergencies and or the end of the day. . Perhaps 2 pairs of very dexterous/ thinner  for leading if its a big route. Hand warmers. Buy a case of 40 on amazon at the start of the season. Do Not put them in your boots. they will make your feet colder by cutting off circulation and there will not be enough oxygen in there for them to work. Do put them in your gloves Before you start climbing and Before your hands get cold.  in colder conditions put one in your chest and one on the back of your neck as well.
 Do Not climb in partys of 3 unless  at least 2 of them are fast or you are paying a guide.
 Do practice a lot on your own time. Find an ice boulder . usually a road cut on a secondary road and start with traversing staying very close to the ground.  Practice until you can go higher without falling. practice going up and down. Do not fall.  get better and practice highballs. Do Not fall.
 Do Not climb with slow people. You will  get cold.  Do Not Climb slowly on 2nd. You and your leader will get cold.
As a 2nd you have 2 jobs. 1 belay the leader. 2 Clean the pitch as quickly as possible so that your party does not get cold.
Do Not fall.

Pretty much all of this is good advice, however, if you are climbing around SLC, or in most of the west you're not likely to find much in the way of road cut ice or the extreme cold, wet conditions that are prevalent in the NE...go toprope solo in Ouray for milage, take an appropriate number of gloves for the day, out here that is usually two, maybe three. and take handwarmers when you need them, which is usually not all that often.

A party of three that knows what they are doing is minimally slower than a party of two, if everyone is really dialed it might actually be faster overall, more people to carry the same amount of gear and deal with ropes, belaying, eating, drinking and staying warm while the leader does his thing...

I heartily second all things said about going slow, it sucks for everyone involved, if you are going to practice one thing I would make it maximum efficiency, no sitting around equals no getting cold.

Go climb ice without any tools, learn what you can do sans tools on TR. When you do swing a tool learn how to do it efficiently.

Grant, I love a party of 3 when we are all pros . Its a blast other than  the fact that one person gets all the leads if your being efficiant.  But even that works out because if  there is a stronger climber in the group you get to get up something you might not have led... we have gobs of 20 to 40 ft  road cut highballs in VT. The best are off limits though. 30m grade 5s on I 91  make me drool every time I drive by..   And fantasize about finding the right side road to park on. sneak through the woods and  solo the proudest line.....     conditions would have to be perfect and it would be too much pressure to be fun.. really just wish that cliff was in my back yard.....  this spot is pretty good. about 25ft tall and out in the sticks with  very little traffic and a wide safe shoulder to park on.

 Doing laps on these things really helps my leading on real routes.  I can look at a section and feel confident that I can motor through X amount of terrain to the next stance  without having to stop and place in a bad spot..