Rock climbing Japan

Going to ski in Hakuba at the 13th.
Planning to continue my trip in Japan and focus mainly on sport climbing, looking for info about rock climbing in Japan and also for a partner.
I'll appreciate any tips you can give :)

Hey!
I'll be in Tokyo from March 5-8 and would be down to meet up and climb somewhere! I don't know much about the area but am down for anything.
Joey

Sagi, Japan has many mountains and places to climb. You'll need to specify which region of Japan you are planning to continue on to, or at least interested in going to for more targeted responses.

If you want to stay in the general Nagano area, Ogawayama is not so far away -- about three hours by car. It's known as the Yosemite of Japan, and features a very wide variety and number of bouldering, single pitch and multipitch routes. Most are sport. There is a very large, nice campground in there, as well as a lodge with public baths. You'll need to check into weather and access at this time of the year though -- I focus on alpine climbing, so never visited Ogawayama during the winter. I always enjoyed my visits there during the warmer months, however, although it can get terribly crowded. There are hiking trails in addition to climbing, so it's popular with families, as well..

Here is an MP link with English info on Ogayama: mountainproject.com/area/10…

Revans90, I have not been to Ogawayama in April -- I gravitated toward alpine routes at higher elevations with snow/ice as much as I could during winter/early spring. Ogawayama has some routes that have an alpine feel, but are not actually alpine. The area will definitely be very cold at night, but there usually isn't snow, although I've heard that there has been some unexpected snowfall in the past. If you dress appropriately and have reasonable tolerance for cooler weather, you'll probably be fine climbing during the day as long as it's sunny. This website has good English information on Ogawayama's routes and planning logistics (don't mind the horribly outdated Web design): https://ogawayama.online

There is also another substantial climbing area named Mizugaki about an hour away from Ogawayama that has bouldering and sport trad climbing.

I'm not sure what your definition of alpine climbing is, but the best places to go for hardcore alpine climbs in Japan are the Japanese Alps, especially the North Alps, or Tanigawadake, in my opinion. This is assuming, of course, that you have the necessary experience, skills and equipment for such undertakings, particularly in snow conditions. The Yatsugatake range also has some great alpine climbs in April, including Akadake Shuryo, a moderate climb that is one of Japan's ultra-classic routes. Yatsugatake can get brutally cold and windy, and there are sections of mixed climbing, so you should be comfortable climbing on 5.5 rock with crampons and thick gloves before attempting this route.

Shiroma-dake in Hakuba has a classic route called Shiroma Shuryo that is generally climbed from April to early May, depending on conditions. It is not climbed after the snow melts because it becomes almost impassible with scree and plant growth. The route is mostly a steep, knife ridge traverse with little technical climbing, but the last pitch before the summit is often climbed with ropes, axes and snow pickets because it is quite vertical and can be sketchy in inclement conditions. While not a particularly high-level route, you must be confident and rock solid with crampon, axe and rope use, and have good footwork on snow. All it will take is a little trip from catching your crampons to send you tumbling down sheer slopes -- the ridges are sharp enough that you may have to step foot over foot in a straight line for significant distances. A high-level of fitness is also key. It's a long route, especially when you're slogging through deep snow carrying full winter gear for overnight camping. The descent route via Daisekkei is avalanche prone -- people are injured or killed in that valley almost every year due to avalanches -- so also keep a hawk's eye on avy conditions. Here's a trip report in English: https://climbjapan.blogspot.com/2014/05/the-main-ridge-of-mt-shirouma.html

R u worried about the virus?

Meow Sherwood wrote: R u worried about the virus?

I have a feeling that Colorado will be on lockdown in the next 2 weeks and the rest of the country. 

Meow Sherwood wrote: R u worried about the virus?

Not worried about the virus really. We are living in Hokkaido, Japan. Yeah it's a threat but wash your hands regularly, wear a mask in crowded areas and eat healthy. Knock on wood I haven't had more than a minor cold twice this year and I'm pregnant working with kids. Really excited to go climb and check out the rest of the country though. 

Carolyn, how is ogawayama in late May? My wife wants to do a climbing trip to the homeland.   I read the online guide, which is excellent, and it seems like that may be the time to go. Also, how is the grocery/eating out situation there?  We’d be going for about 2 weeks, and I wonder if we should just come fully supplied with groceries. The online info isn’t terribly clear. Thanks!

Sorry to hop in here, but if anyone has thoughts/info on a trip that currently has us mostly in Kyoto and Takayama during early April, I'd be super appreciative. Haven't been able to dig up much English-language information.