What's it take to summit Denali?

So what do I really need to know or be able to do?

A good start would be to read about it. Have you done that?  Read books about Denali, accounts of climbing it, guide service descriptions, etc.

So when Someone asks a question, do you point them towards the library? 

Carolina wrote: So when Someone asks a question, do you point them towards the library? 

East coast...

Carolina wrote: So when Someone asks a question, do you point them towards the library? 

Yeah, indicating you've done some basic research on your own would help. Also, more specific questions would help. Good luck.

sure, if you’ll blow ten grand to get dragged up a mountain... whatever makes you feel “accomplished”

Carolina,

People are probably going to be resistant or curt in their responses, simply because it doesn't appear you've put any effort into finding out for yourself.

What's it take to climb Denali? Hard work. Even with a guide. Most people you encounter on this forum, especially those that have climbed Denali, put out large monetary and physical/mental investment. Taking the initiative to show you have some skin in the game, especially by having specific questions, would likely serve you well to get some insights from community members here.

Cheers.

Doing the homework is almost the best part.  So much to learn and practice.  This can last for months or years. The climb is short lived.  Do the homework ! 

I climbed it a couple years ago, here are some random thoughts

- Roughly half the people don't summit. This is a mix of bad weather and not being prepared for how hard it is.

-You need to be in the best shape of your life. You should be able to run a marathon. You should be able to carry a 35-45 lb pack and pull a 50 lb sled all day long, uphill, for 2-3 weeks straight

-its cold. Someone lost their nose from frostbite while I was there.

-the weather can be really bad. I spent 5 days at 17K camp and could not leave the tent. Be prepared for lots of down time.

- It's a long trip. Some people can't handle being away from their their families in such an isolated environment for so long.

- it's crowded, expect line-ups on the fixed lines and the running belays

-its high altitude. You definitely should have been to at least 5000-6000 meters before. Some people simply don't acclimate well. Denali is a bad place for a first time at 20,000'

-Unlike what the previous poster said, a guide will not 'drag' you up. If you are unprepared, either physically or technically, the guide will not let you go to the summit

-Mt Rainier is the most similar mountain you can climb in the lower 48. Do that first

The West Butt looks like a big cold slog. Sounds fun. I'd be into it.

Cory Brooks wrote: I climbed it a couple years ago, here are some random thoughts

- Roughly half the people don't summit. This is a mix of bad weather and not being prepared for how hard it is.

-You need to be in the best shape of your life. You should be able to run a marathon. You should be able to carry a 35-45 lb pack and pull a 50 lb sled all day long, uphill, for 2-3 weeks straight

-its cold. Someone lost their nose from frostbite while I was there.

-the weather can be really bad. I spent 5 days at 17K camp and could not leave the tent. Be prepared for lots of down time.

- It's a long trip. Some people can't handle being away from their their families in such an isolated environment for so long.

- it's crowded, expect line-ups on the fixed lines and the running belays

-its high altitude. You definitely should have been to at least 5000-6000 meters before. Some people simply don't acclimate well. Denali is a bad place for a first time at 20,000'

-Unlike what the previous poster said, a guide will not 'drag' you up. If you are unprepared, either physically or technically, the guide will not let you go to the summit

-Mt Rainier is the most similar mountain you can climb in the lower 48. Do that first

Thanks Cory and Raven.  This is a good start.  And what a bummer to hear about the tent jail for 5 days Cory, that sounds Brutal!

From the Accident reports, it seems to me most recent issues on Denali come from Elevation.  AMS or HAPE

Seems like avalanche risks is also relatively high, but I would suspect a guided party on a main trail highway wouldn't be in significant danger.  As opposed to those taking lesser traveled lines.  

Would be cool to hear from more people who have  achieved the summit.  

Carolina -  your biggest challenge, being from south,  is dialing in your cold weather living system and experience.  Aside from fitness, this is likely the most crucial aspect, especially for a guided climb.

You can take a good stab from researching others solutions and recommendations (like working with your intended guide service so it meshes well) but you should plan some shorter trips to frickin cold places just to test that out by itself.  
There’s no substitute for actually doing it yourself. You don’t want to be on Denali when theory and practice start sorting out their differences.  

Carolina wrote: So what do I really need to know or be able to do?

Shit in a bucket as others casually stroll by.

Everything you have typed, Carolina, seems to indicate you want to have climbed Denali, rather than wanting to climb Denali. I think that's a bad approach to anything in climbing, really. A better approach is to steep yourself in mountaineering, starting with the mountains closest to you. Do them in summer, then do hard rock lines on those peaks in summer. Next, do the same ones in winter. Then go to the Rocky Mountains and do the same thing. Do it for multiple seasons. Do that and you'll have the clothing down for all conditions and you'll know if you like it or not. Buy a guide package to even Rainier and find out you hate that shit halfway through the route and you're just going to hate yourself for jumping into something without knowing anything beforehand.

Carolina wrote: So what do I really need to know or be able to do?

Yer gunna die

Money & will power! A little training would not hurt.

Tim Stich wrote: Everything you have typed, Carolina, seems to indicate you want to have climbed Denali, rather than wanting to climb Denali. I think that's a shit approach to anything in climbing, really. A better approach is to steep yourself in mountaineering, starting with the mountains closest to you. Do them in summer, then do hard rock lines on those peaks in summer. Next, do the same ones in winter. Then go to the Rocky Mountains and do the same thing. Do it for multiple seasons. Do that and you'll have the clothing down for all conditions and you'll know if you like it or not. Buy a guide package to even Rainier and find out you hate that shit halfway through the route and you're just going to hate yourself for jumping into something without knowing anything beforehand. 

Ok Im just gonna assume everyone commenting here has climbed Denali to be fair. 

But Why judge peoples climbing motivations?  The hordes of climbers descending upon the choss which blankets our great country are not asked why they come?  The Rock does not care.  

Anyone can learn to shit in a bucket.  

 

Carolina wrote:

Ok Im just gonna assume everyone commenting here has climbed Denali to be fair. 

But Why judge peoples climbing motivations?  The hordes of climbers descending upon the choss which blankets our great country are not asked why they come?  The Rock does not care.  

Anyone can learn to shit in a bucket.  

You asked for opinions, and those are based on what? Judgments. So I judged your motivation. To me, someone saying they want to climb X without even climbing A, B, or C has no idea whatsoever what climbing X takes for them personally. And you are the only one that matters. We literally have no idea what it will take for YOU to climb anything. Who dafuq knows, bro? Right?

Carolina wrote:

But Why judge peoples climbing motivations?  

 

Motivations? You show no motivation at all. No context, nothing. Give us something to work with. With the right approach, you'll likely get advice worth its weight in gold.

Carolina wrote: So what do I really need to know or be able to do?

do you have any mountaineering experience above 14k? if not, get that first. denali ain't the mountain to "learn" things on...

I have climbed Denali and got turned around before windy corner due to altitude issues and my body just falling apart due to poor acclimation.  I also had too much weight I think.

Anyways, you need to be an excellent winter/expedition camper and in excellent shape.  You also need intermediate level glacier travel skills and judgement. You will need to research and practice some denali/big mountain/expedition skills you won't get climbing Rainier.  

  If you go guided you just need to be in great shape and have some intro level experience.   It is still not easy and you are not dragged up.... But it IS quite a bit easier to not have to stay up late making water and food for yourself/team.  Then again, I don't enjoy guide pacing generally and would rather move slower than them unless conditions dictate.  For me, the fun of mountaineering is the decision making which you don't do guided, so I wouldn't consider it these days.