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Finger taping for rings/stacks sized cracks

Original Post
Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

What is the "correct" way to tape for off-finger sized cracks? I stopped taping for hands/fists decades ago, but lately have been tearing up my fingers on rings/stacks. After you start bleeding, a 5.10 finger crack becomes a greasy 5.11.

I'm sure I could find this on YouTube, but I want more than one opinion.

thanks

Andy Wiesner · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 35

Pete Whittaker’s new book is in the stores now . . . 

Salamanizer Ski · · Off the Grid… · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 19,058

I always felt that any tape on the fingers, especially the knuckles is more of a hindrance than anything.

One or two wraps where you’re bleeding, then let the callouses do the work for the rest. 

shredward · · SLC · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 5

I like to tape the first two segments of my first two fingers.  In my mind, those two take the most torque when climbing finger cracks and that has always seemed sufficient, rather than taping all 4 fingers.  Granted i usually just struggle my way up finger cracks in the creek, maybe the good climbers tape all 4. 

Jialiang Liang · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2024 · Points: 0

I actually can't find videos, but found this blogpost from steph davis:
https://stephdavis.co/blog/overhanging-rattly-finger-cracks/

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 668

The trick is integrating it into the tape glove. I'm by no means an expert, but for purples/greens this works well for me. 95% of the time just the index finger, but occasionally the middle and/or ring finger.

Starts at 7:10:

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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